tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-33592286611638077202024-02-19T11:16:55.167-08:00flekka challengefrom an idea to a finished garmentNinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17022469545932314525noreply@blogger.comBlogger68125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3359228661163807720.post-57918046762912390382012-06-18T22:35:00.000-07:002012-06-18T22:35:05.370-07:00Challenge 15:: Gima tunic:: finished<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
This is Gima tunic. For those that have not seen the <a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/05/challenge-15-gima-tunic-intro.html" target="_blank">intro post for Challenge 15</a>, it's the sketch on the right, the one without the pockets.</div>
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It turned out a little bit different but I really like it. I wore it all day today, and it was really, really comfortable. </div>
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The pics with me modeling the tunic are really bad, I know. I do need that tripod that has been mia for a while now. In the picture below I look like I have big bust, when I really don't - not that there is anything wrong with big bust; it's just really hard to take a picture holding the camera like this...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi28vW_UN8iGDJx8zm2VenJ94ylSVHfslcHyHp3gvIT6zVxD9iNXcnjRrJ8oO6SaWMg53tKFhJ-WysPy5XHNgV_-ktXm228uCkcfXgfD9e9PIRKwhp85jWRDA5KY17ocUVuNgjOsW9vwpI0/s1600/sketch.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi28vW_UN8iGDJx8zm2VenJ94ylSVHfslcHyHp3gvIT6zVxD9iNXcnjRrJ8oO6SaWMg53tKFhJ-WysPy5XHNgV_-ktXm228uCkcfXgfD9e9PIRKwhp85jWRDA5KY17ocUVuNgjOsW9vwpI0/s320/sketch.jpg" width="154" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8QB2HFhChcPO58d68uOYF4ycnqe8IsKckGdLyx4WrkKCqhlbilpQ-fopy_Gj9E-SQlCI0Fk1tM13Vms-y5JaKylAsFinkN0bAVLfea0h-ZXbHNG5Q3wNnD9oGwwbvYRBCH9iMsyVVNS6p/s1600/IMG_8584.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8QB2HFhChcPO58d68uOYF4ycnqe8IsKckGdLyx4WrkKCqhlbilpQ-fopy_Gj9E-SQlCI0Fk1tM13Vms-y5JaKylAsFinkN0bAVLfea0h-ZXbHNG5Q3wNnD9oGwwbvYRBCH9iMsyVVNS6p/s320/IMG_8584.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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The tunic turned out a bot different than the sketch. For one it has more of an A-line, and I did not do hem pintucks. The fabric was too thin and I think that was the reason I had hard time keeping the tucks straight and parallel. Another reason was that the hem turned out to be a little curved - because of the A-line, and I didn't want to have make tucks on a separate strip of fabric (like I did for the sleeves) and add it on. Oh, and I wouldn't have enough fabric anyway. I could barely get these pieces as is.<br />
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Also, with the A-line, this top has more ease than in the sketch, making it more loose and really comfy.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSL4gMAQqJk-bZKpRhpOyYHnzEtMX8BXXlOukvszFe4NSpx149vJVMRf7HyF2kNIUu9TsLZcmN2ctUyqfTjSDDVbVTB0l0TWbQHChZahe94ohOtO9z9EipIXyN9VqRjU78ozOUvDIb8qEz/s1600/IMG_8579.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSL4gMAQqJk-bZKpRhpOyYHnzEtMX8BXXlOukvszFe4NSpx149vJVMRf7HyF2kNIUu9TsLZcmN2ctUyqfTjSDDVbVTB0l0TWbQHChZahe94ohOtO9z9EipIXyN9VqRjU78ozOUvDIb8qEz/s320/IMG_8579.JPG" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWIrDjnYafBicJWnR7zcm17Xn_HrRajJkwL3wr9j2S88Kjd5139EeuWGf0TtXRb0iAEsAQB1moqn-egRMFYovSd0mL5xNO7H1vokfJJAmwGXl6clrIPJuHJoVDRNZP7eP8ui_B4861WsCi/s1600/IMG_8578.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWIrDjnYafBicJWnR7zcm17Xn_HrRajJkwL3wr9j2S88Kjd5139EeuWGf0TtXRb0iAEsAQB1moqn-egRMFYovSd0mL5xNO7H1vokfJJAmwGXl6clrIPJuHJoVDRNZP7eP8ui_B4861WsCi/s320/IMG_8578.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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The closeup of the tucks in the front. I had a little "duh" moment here, almost had to do the tucks panel all over again (and I do not like to make mistakes; I do not like to have to redo things). When I cut the front, I cut it with the panel, I never really made a pattern for it. I thought I would leave the panel in (not cut it out) at first, to make sure the neck sits nicely. Then I would cut out the panel and use that as a template for the pintucked, finished panel. Well, I miscalculated the seam allowance, so instead of my usual 1/2 in, I ended with a 1/4 in. Almost wasn't able to fit it. The workaround was to use 1/4 in seam allowance which made the neck narrower by 1/4 in on both sides, but luckily that wasn't a big deal.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi188755AZeS9GNJ-NXzckGxcgrYl877wQVfTmClhYfCTjf6oy-Mk6hS2A11fyTt7ik-SYUqKozaAAXla75k_l2_6CEpowlAfYQA9FOG2HxSaGylQCCylWyURDvLJH6yTkziwCcUmXE3TeO/s1600/IMG_8580.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi188755AZeS9GNJ-NXzckGxcgrYl877wQVfTmClhYfCTjf6oy-Mk6hS2A11fyTt7ik-SYUqKozaAAXla75k_l2_6CEpowlAfYQA9FOG2HxSaGylQCCylWyURDvLJH6yTkziwCcUmXE3TeO/s320/IMG_8580.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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This is just to show you how nice and flat it sits on the chest. I didn't use any stabilizer on the panel. The pintucked, front piece was a little stiffer because of the tucks, and then I added the back to it, and it turned out stiff enough. Neck is finished with a bias tape.</div>
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(I need a bit of a tan)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGH9y2s3RtrrUrtOj2jQa2d_owHTEYkMqI7fQLVnhqil2eBGi5W2dFNHN0cCO75F0H3Lm03icaHofT_KQLmy6IRU814lC7JB_Qi2_D4CpTH25Rhl7YZHSpznhfIZlO95lRHdgOBvcuOOjx/s1600/IMG_8583.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGH9y2s3RtrrUrtOj2jQa2d_owHTEYkMqI7fQLVnhqil2eBGi5W2dFNHN0cCO75F0H3Lm03icaHofT_KQLmy6IRU814lC7JB_Qi2_D4CpTH25Rhl7YZHSpznhfIZlO95lRHdgOBvcuOOjx/s320/IMG_8583.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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And finally, the sleeves. Another "duh" moment. Well, sort of. When I drafted and cut the muslin, I did not take any width at he sleeve opening. It was simply straight. I though I would take it in after I make sure the sleeve fit well. I kinda forgot. So I cut strips for the pintucked part, made them as lond as I wanted the opening of the sleeve to be, and added some gathering to narrow the sleeve. Like a cuff, really. It turned out to be a nice little detail. However, when I do the other version of the tunic (sketch on the left) I will do a long sleeve, and then I will make a sleeve narrower at the opening.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghHTBdCEgAZ-rCQ9LVNYeLO7oeqQDbXGPQZOfqVFHCSbTfFM1gzxi-2XmQ1NdvHdlvzJVKWjQgMUFt6JC-YrLyQnRaxtxvqpyvPzZLgNiPMO6UfFkSEiDGpZYLRnXjwtGVFOXo910Mk0Gh/s1600/IMG_8586.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghHTBdCEgAZ-rCQ9LVNYeLO7oeqQDbXGPQZOfqVFHCSbTfFM1gzxi-2XmQ1NdvHdlvzJVKWjQgMUFt6JC-YrLyQnRaxtxvqpyvPzZLgNiPMO6UfFkSEiDGpZYLRnXjwtGVFOXo910Mk0Gh/s320/IMG_8586.JPG" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwFVvtZFLEyeRjxSIrYSTL7ExJZZNJfQa-xJg787h0uEB7RtSIFv7xYGdB_yaDk2IYhMcHlIV8PESGEXDAX17UW0nkdA9WIUKSiohtfn3frIx_wgJ7hzQoUAW8skghz1F16NhrzdDSICWN/s1600/IMG_8581.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwFVvtZFLEyeRjxSIrYSTL7ExJZZNJfQa-xJg787h0uEB7RtSIFv7xYGdB_yaDk2IYhMcHlIV8PESGEXDAX17UW0nkdA9WIUKSiohtfn3frIx_wgJ7hzQoUAW8skghz1F16NhrzdDSICWN/s320/IMG_8581.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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Things will be quiet for a while here. School is done, and we are taking some time off to visit our family in Europe, so we'll be away until mid August. Then I will be back with more drafting. </div>
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Previous Challenge 15 posts:</div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 18px;"></span></div>
<a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/05/challenge-15-gima-tunic-intro.html"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #222222;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Challenge 15:: Gima tunic:: intro</span></span></a><br />
<a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/05/challenge-15-gima-tunic-drafting-front.html"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #222222;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Challenge 15:: Gima tunic:: drafting front and back</span></span></a><br />
<a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/06/challenge-15-gima-tunic-drafting.html"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #222222;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Challenge 15:: Gima tunic:: drafting sleeves, muslin</span></span></a><br />
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<br />Ninahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17022469545932314525noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3359228661163807720.post-67528537665954920352012-06-17T22:41:00.000-07:002012-06-18T22:35:51.442-07:00Challenge 15:: Gima tunic:: drafting sleeves, muslin<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
For this top I wanted a narrower sleeve, but not too narrow. I don't really care for narrow sleeves myself. I have a really wide back (always had, no matter what size I was) and I need that additional room in the sleeves. Otherwise tops are always tight around my upper back if I move my arms and I absolutely hate that. So, not so tight, but narrower than the <a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/05/challenge-14-rossa-shirt-finished.html" target="_blank">Rossa shirt</a>.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjg2499QpqU1XCcMHJElxTqa-cjtRhZ8SHUwk8MGvA7R9cXFD0bkJP8JYFKIpj2_heADJw44T7qgkaqIUb4P-LmfJIZftGaPRgLjuKL-I2-DGVH_YeIQSsUqTOXwYGUd5wJeRFxcCUQDjHb/s1600/IMG_8527.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjg2499QpqU1XCcMHJElxTqa-cjtRhZ8SHUwk8MGvA7R9cXFD0bkJP8JYFKIpj2_heADJw44T7qgkaqIUb4P-LmfJIZftGaPRgLjuKL-I2-DGVH_YeIQSsUqTOXwYGUd5wJeRFxcCUQDjHb/s400/IMG_8527.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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So, I used the same <a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/05/challenge-14-drafting-sleeve-and-collar.html" target="_blank">method</a> to draft the sleeve as for Rossa shirt, except that I used a higher sleeve cap (see picture above -> sleeve cap is 2/3 of AB; Rossa shirt sleeve had 1/2 AB) and I drew the sleeve closer to the bodice - this might be clearer from the picture below (this is the back).</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJLVn5BuQbLsMPqTCrsTgIJE-OdOacF3QiMMQFSvVGz_tbczZZ-tgg1uxSZS9p9DHokBn5Ux-7_rWG0izaVZlieLgebuUKyhaPuW9XKapNAh0VrRJLJNjWH6SaFkGLoO2GfusJ_8TeZVtB/s1600/IMG_8529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJLVn5BuQbLsMPqTCrsTgIJE-OdOacF3QiMMQFSvVGz_tbczZZ-tgg1uxSZS9p9DHokBn5Ux-7_rWG0izaVZlieLgebuUKyhaPuW9XKapNAh0VrRJLJNjWH6SaFkGLoO2GfusJ_8TeZVtB/s400/IMG_8529.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Compare the above picture with the one I did when drafting <a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/05/challenge-14-drafting-sleeve-and-collar.html" target="_blank">Rossa shirt sleeve</a> - the difference is that when you extend the shoulder line by 8 cm, you draw down 4 cm, instead of 2.5. This will make the angle of the sleeve bigger and the sleeve "closer" to the bodice. Then you draw the sleeve curve the same</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbJLy2o5hVEQApJy8x-nsEJwVCTGvEyL4Pr52t7Sg8q_LXClBGQFf0hPATc6GY6eHylsIrKSd-dyGczFOuUI6jdX-MvuQbRTb4EondLFx8zX902Yj0YQ03PJf2aN5vDvw8D42nYXnZ2ftn/s1600/IMG_8530.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbJLy2o5hVEQApJy8x-nsEJwVCTGvEyL4Pr52t7Sg8q_LXClBGQFf0hPATc6GY6eHylsIrKSd-dyGczFOuUI6jdX-MvuQbRTb4EondLFx8zX902Yj0YQ03PJf2aN5vDvw8D42nYXnZ2ftn/s400/IMG_8530.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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Repeat for the front, same as the Rossa shirt, with modifications as for the back. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYSRuJbUxoa-kBvLHCEG131WIk-buZA-x0tGy4j_o32WWUVJq1gKzw3IwE4okGtt3XwmQKbcJedOH2vqxG7eg82MF3dKDMY1D4RShVRTny406frTGz9fze_RT9DKJtUH7uBPi_SkIXnPFn/s1600/IMG_8531.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYSRuJbUxoa-kBvLHCEG131WIk-buZA-x0tGy4j_o32WWUVJq1gKzw3IwE4okGtt3XwmQKbcJedOH2vqxG7eg82MF3dKDMY1D4RShVRTny406frTGz9fze_RT9DKJtUH7uBPi_SkIXnPFn/s400/IMG_8531.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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This is what the sleeve looked like after the first draft. I thought that the front lookes a bit too low, so I adjusted the curve a bit.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-6IMIOE0Dus0wJ9XYfO_QvVFVzw6uonczYCK3llBIFiOb9X3mzYwgJfoB1z7AX7i1-Bdd7T0lbc3VYLxebd13VhgHlu2ppFC1f61o416DIXHINZONNDZWC3TObj3cO-H5zxShyphenhyphenm7KVeGT/s1600/IMG_8560.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-6IMIOE0Dus0wJ9XYfO_QvVFVzw6uonczYCK3llBIFiOb9X3mzYwgJfoB1z7AX7i1-Bdd7T0lbc3VYLxebd13VhgHlu2ppFC1f61o416DIXHINZONNDZWC3TObj3cO-H5zxShyphenhyphenm7KVeGT/s400/IMG_8560.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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This is the final pattern for the sleeve. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRqtxxxGW_TfSUY_CRqHCQRyTN94OJGbAYAp0xHKpqhGHB8orKR8FozObhpUjVREwXBVLHyf8RvbZx8HiOLsVmAgASwRNY61r7Z1IUXo1tnHGq0GExFkA3q3gwEQAgo1RVhmjXNLCoxm2J/s1600/IMG_8561.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRqtxxxGW_TfSUY_CRqHCQRyTN94OJGbAYAp0xHKpqhGHB8orKR8FozObhpUjVREwXBVLHyf8RvbZx8HiOLsVmAgASwRNY61r7Z1IUXo1tnHGq0GExFkA3q3gwEQAgo1RVhmjXNLCoxm2J/s320/IMG_8561.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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I was feeling confident about the bodice part of the pattern, so I cut it out from the fabric I chose for this tunic, not the muslin. I figured I might have to take it in a bit, but it shouldn't be too tight. And I was right. It was too wide, so I took it in a bit and shaped it a little more at the waist. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMx0cYZHMg-AcBx5TGQoahMLF51zGLOmP_35yoJa2ya3R4vKsSHcMnhBFfewY8VtY6qRrSxGfOFUCmNqRl-qaP2tzICg-BvCrzzPGW1fgp3edDE5Q9JgS9gNxyaMYQY8OsVctvVFnZBXXm/s1600/IMG_8562.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMx0cYZHMg-AcBx5TGQoahMLF51zGLOmP_35yoJa2ya3R4vKsSHcMnhBFfewY8VtY6qRrSxGfOFUCmNqRl-qaP2tzICg-BvCrzzPGW1fgp3edDE5Q9JgS9gNxyaMYQY8OsVctvVFnZBXXm/s320/IMG_8562.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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I was a bit worried about the sleeve though. It looked a bit weird, the pattern. But look here, it fit just perfect!</div>
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So now onto the <a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/06/challenge-15-gima-tunic-finished.html" target="_blank">finished top</a>...</div>
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Previous Challenge 15 posts:</div>
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<a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/05/challenge-15-gima-tunic-intro.html">Challenge 15:: Gima tunic:: intro</a></div>
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<a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/05/challenge-15-gima-tunic-drafting-front.html">Challenge 15:: Gima tunic:: drafting front and back</a></div>Ninahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17022469545932314525noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3359228661163807720.post-67847032563748183442012-05-29T11:55:00.001-07:002012-06-17T22:42:33.261-07:00Challenge 15:: Gima tunic:: drafting front and back<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Similar to the <a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/05/challenge-14-rossa-shirt-finished.html" target="_blank">Challenge 14</a> top, I will enlarge the arm opening (personal preference) the same amount from the shoulder dart: 2/3 of the dart will be moved into the arm opening; 1/3 will go into the waist to add width (in <a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/05/challenge-14-rossa-shirt-finished.html" target="_blank">Challenge 14</a> 1/3 was incorporated into the yoke). </div>
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OK, so mark points 1,2, 3 and 4 on the dart and draw a horizontal line from the dart end to the arm opening (point 6), and a vertical one to the hem (point 5). Trace around the pattern from point 1 counterclockwise to point 5. Put a pin in the tip of the dar and rotate the pattern counterclockwise until the right leg of the dart matches point 3 (we just closed 1/3 of the dart and moved it to the waist). Then trace from point 5 (on the pattern) counterclockwise around the pattern to point 6. </div>
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Finally, rotate the pattern until the right dart leg matches point 1. Trace around the last part of the pattern - from 6 to 1. Remove the pattern, redraw shoulder seam and the arm opening. I also took another 1 cm down the sideseam to further widen the arm opening.</div>
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Extend the length you wish - I added 45 cm from the waist - based on a red tunic I bought last year at Zara. Measure the opening of the dart - in my case this was 2.8 cm. We need this for the top because we will be moving a part of the dart into the waist there as well, and we need to keep the balance between the front and the back, so we need to know how much we added in the back.</div>
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Draw in your side seam. Here, I used the Zara tunic again. I really liked how it fit, so why not. Finally, draw in the hipline (about 20 cm below the waistline), if your top extends below the hipline, and make sure that the width is at least H/4 + 4cm, where H is your hip measurement. </div>
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The last thing at the back, is to fix the neck opening. See below.</div>
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The front will be a little more complicated. We need to draw the neckline, and distribute the dart into the waist and under arm, so we will need to do some tracing as well as cutting, so first, trace your sloper (if you do not wish to modify it).</div>
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Neck opening first. It's a square opening, but a deep one, with an insert - it might remind you of a "bib" front? So why not incorporate the dart into the seam of the neck? I tried, but the opening and the insert turned out to be too wide for my taste, too much as a "bib" (not a fan). So I decided to just keep the dart and move it under the arm. </div>
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This is how I drew the neck (let's try to keep it simple):</div>
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a) open the neck the same as in the back (point 2)</div>
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b) measure how deep you want the opening to be (that would be to the top of the insert, point 4)</div>
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c) draw a horizontal line from 4 and a vertical line from 2, intersection mark as 5</div>
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d) measure how deep you want the insert - in my case it's 10 cm from point 4; draw a horizontal line</div>
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e) point 6 lies 2 cm to the right of 5</div>
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f)to get the side of the neck opening, draw a line from 2, through 6 down to the bottom of the neck opening. </div>
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g) draw the top of the neck opening (the top of the insert) a bit lower at the midpoint (maybe 1.5 mm) - point 9</div>
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h) finally, since this is a deep opening, we need to take a bit at the neck, to prevent it from gaping open: point 7 is about 3 cm to the right of 6; 8 is about 0.5 cm to the right of 7. Connect 7 and 8 to the breast point (BP). BP, 7 and 8 make a little "dart" that will be taken in and transferred somewhere else.</div>
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Now before we start transferring darts we need to draw in the sideseam. Also mark 1 cm down the sideseam for the arm opening to match the back. Almost forgot - draw another line from BP - down to the hem. Cut the pattern out. Cut out the neck dart we just drew in, also cut out the bust dart and cut along the line from BP down to the hem.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj23nrzH9bn1w2QBbhVmoXCpleniecXzq3QIgLm3zgKI82H_R8zd7PiNlEmjpLJl272p6mTVnG8PDdISHcq4m9zMZ-cB7jcDWbQGlgxIGmAxfh9n_tO6EQkzp_2D_rFMfRhSiSwCqXb6uSQ/s1600/IMG_8520.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj23nrzH9bn1w2QBbhVmoXCpleniecXzq3QIgLm3zgKI82H_R8zd7PiNlEmjpLJl272p6mTVnG8PDdISHcq4m9zMZ-cB7jcDWbQGlgxIGmAxfh9n_tO6EQkzp_2D_rFMfRhSiSwCqXb6uSQ/s320/IMG_8520.JPG" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPTgxLWUbAwf2mXaD0LyVxW46vS9tgwJKBeFQZrNDtcrol2HXpqdbYsvT1CypK8-qjaNcWzmfSi20ESFtyQZCeXScAlsCM2WA6QX8gZoqo1ivraM8uBx0Y2M7XI080Y33ralFG0TJOkGV9/s1600/IMG_8521.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPTgxLWUbAwf2mXaD0LyVxW46vS9tgwJKBeFQZrNDtcrol2HXpqdbYsvT1CypK8-qjaNcWzmfSi20ESFtyQZCeXScAlsCM2WA6QX8gZoqo1ivraM8uBx0Y2M7XI080Y33ralFG0TJOkGV9/s320/IMG_8521.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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This is the mess you end up with... Close the neck dart and secure with tape. Also tape the midline to the bottom paper, that part of the pattern will not move any more. Draw in where you want the underarm dart to be. Here - 6cm below the arm opening. Cut along this line.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnaYDJIDyYD6qPs5yAsFXv9VucyD7YnVWVYnJNN6mlT_k4lj-ljL3XAwvMFhbvO3YUlmYh1h2K2jZtE0uIIBN9JJnWm7cLQUomi_Hlg7xL-oqlvV3-iY8P1BDxup-0rbgiybzmsziYPFt1/s1600/IMG_8522.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnaYDJIDyYD6qPs5yAsFXv9VucyD7YnVWVYnJNN6mlT_k4lj-ljL3XAwvMFhbvO3YUlmYh1h2K2jZtE0uIIBN9JJnWm7cLQUomi_Hlg7xL-oqlvV3-iY8P1BDxup-0rbgiybzmsziYPFt1/s400/IMG_8522.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Now comes the fun part - distributing the dart. First of all, leave some at the arm opening - this should match how much we added in the back (forgot to mention this earlier - go back to the back pattern and measure how much you added at the arm opening in the back by moving the shoulder dart). Tape to secure. Then open at the waistline - again match the back. Tape to secure. This will leave you with a dart under arm. </div>
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All that's left is to do some fixes... redraw the arm opening - don't forget to take that 1 cm down the sideseam. Redraw the neck opening. Finish the dart.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy6B0hfeRHsl0_b2oG9FjYDkUaPovaeBWXxayd_8bIBCrlBaCnidl4nqWLBIMIlB5t6qp4Mg4mOvASscGRr5LRexwoix-EOc5903nZ0FYzl750W_NE5YtlcBgvozEbT_lgmFOwFUkFlOAq/s1600/IMG_8524.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy6B0hfeRHsl0_b2oG9FjYDkUaPovaeBWXxayd_8bIBCrlBaCnidl4nqWLBIMIlB5t6qp4Mg4mOvASscGRr5LRexwoix-EOc5903nZ0FYzl750W_NE5YtlcBgvozEbT_lgmFOwFUkFlOAq/s400/IMG_8524.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Add the length, draw the sideseam (below the waistline), draw in the hipline and make sure that you have enough ease there - it should be H/4 + 5 cm at least (H is your hip measurement).</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVCoqFsetAI2wgOsBWUZbAocNDK07FJbg_vqmNsoxoR0W98dOZTda2JqbKJmG5Yy4_fKiCLzMvARXSqSE7CwRZMcyy1M1acwhAldJOTBxypueS24CuR0G1WPDOxFhmHC2jIKK4yZdOGE8I/s1600/IMG_8525.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVCoqFsetAI2wgOsBWUZbAocNDK07FJbg_vqmNsoxoR0W98dOZTda2JqbKJmG5Yy4_fKiCLzMvARXSqSE7CwRZMcyy1M1acwhAldJOTBxypueS24CuR0G1WPDOxFhmHC2jIKK4yZdOGE8I/s400/IMG_8525.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Finally, match the front an the back an the shoulder seam to check the neck and the arm curve.</div>
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That's it. Next will be <a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/06/challenge-15-gima-tunic-drafting.html" target="_blank">the sleeve</a>.</div>
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Previous Challenge 15 posts:<br />
<a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/05/challenge-15-gima-tunic-intro.html">Challenge 15:: Gima tunic:: intro</a><br />
<br />Ninahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17022469545932314525noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3359228661163807720.post-52430439480755328062012-05-22T13:32:00.001-07:002012-05-29T11:55:55.571-07:00Challenge 15:: Gima tunic:: intro<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
For Challenge 15 we have a tunic, or a dress, depending on how you look at it. The inspiration for this challenge comes from <a href="http://www.bodenusa.com/" target="_blank">Boden</a> tunics. I like a lot of them, too many to post here, so here is just one example - <a href="http://www.bodenusa.com/en-US/Womens-Tunics-Kaftans/3_4-Sleeved-Tops/WA356/Womens-Notch-Neck-Tunic.html?NavGroupID=88" target="_blank">Notch Neck tunic</a>.</div>
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I am planning for a slightly different top: deep square neck with a pintuck panel, elbow length sleeves and some additional pintuck details on the sleeves as well as the hem (we'll see about the hem). I originally made the sketch on the left, but since I am using a patterned fabric, I thought the additional seams would be too much - and I am NOT going to do any pattern matching. Also, the fabric is a little transparent so pockets like these wouldn't fit well. But I am going to make that one out of a solid chambray I have in my stash. So here I will be drafting the simpler version - the sketch on the right.</div>
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Also, most of all (woven) Boden tunics have side zippers, so they are probably more fitted - my version will be a pull-over.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDtvjCBpAYEi6b7FmeOW7G2Kbtu80B_nSXmH8T3pynWv55LryJKJu68qz5kSXaxRwOV2Cm-4qtFdkmZSPY0n1d42yVqxvVmdaUmfDZNlsqT4P8Emm0qHfBIR-mIW9JnHPfap_OYiClV085/s1600/boden_tunic.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDtvjCBpAYEi6b7FmeOW7G2Kbtu80B_nSXmH8T3pynWv55LryJKJu68qz5kSXaxRwOV2Cm-4qtFdkmZSPY0n1d42yVqxvVmdaUmfDZNlsqT4P8Emm0qHfBIR-mIW9JnHPfap_OYiClV085/s1600/boden_tunic.jpg" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpfpgTlYM5xV0fWWQO7E0dNVHsG9E0aw7WF6_s3thpycF8a-E9z9G3jnN1AcSVx1KygC5I30_zLmgR9X9wxint4KBAvCUpqWN8DQ2XKS5HkHG9NWMV03mHokS4ENyg7qADfFyWCbAGsl9h/s1600/sketch.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpfpgTlYM5xV0fWWQO7E0dNVHsG9E0aw7WF6_s3thpycF8a-E9z9G3jnN1AcSVx1KygC5I30_zLmgR9X9wxint4KBAvCUpqWN8DQ2XKS5HkHG9NWMV03mHokS4ENyg7qADfFyWCbAGsl9h/s320/sketch.jpg" width="154" /></a></div>
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You may have noticed that my sketch looks much better than in some previous challenges. I can draw a nice arm opening curve, but if I have to sketch a blouse it looks terrible, all out of proportion. So I used a fashion form (or a croquis). That's one of the things I have been researching while on a hiatus from this project. I looked into a number of forms, free downloadable ones. There are many to choose from at the <a href="http://www.designersnexus.com/design/free-fashion-croquis-templates/female-fashion-croquis-templates/" target="_blank">Design Nexus</a>, there is a croquis family over at the <a href="http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/3719/meet-the-threads-croquis-family-your-tool-for-fashion-sketching" target="_blank">Threads Magazine</a>, but I finally settled on the <a href="http://fashionary.org/downloads/" target="_blank">Fashionary</a> templates. The outline prints very faintly, so you can draw over it, write over it and it does not stick out. I am actually ordering their <a href="http://fashionary.org/womens/" target="_blank">sketchbook</a>, I think it could be very useful</div>
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Now on to <a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/05/challenge-15-gima-tunic-drafting-front.html" target="_blank">drafting the back and the front</a>.<br />
<br />Ninahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17022469545932314525noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3359228661163807720.post-74561539645147842132012-05-15T22:00:00.000-07:002012-05-15T22:04:41.604-07:00Challenge 14:: Rossa shirt:: finishedHere it is... On the right the inspiration (<a href="http://www.stevenalan.com/womens/shirting/sydney-top-s12-1-wst0087">Sydney top from Steven Alan</a>) and on the left my finished Rossa shirt.<br />
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I planned to take some shots of me wearing it this time. I really did. But I could not find my tripod... I haven't used it for so long. Next time, I promise.<br />
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The fabric comes from the local <a href="http://www.facebook.com/FabricPlanet">Fabric Planet</a> and was bought very recently. I have to say it looked better in the shop than when I actually cut it.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEji8XMYCpk_wWitjmwU4mfCegJGNLqSdxx-S55xXR6Au9dqxSakmVwvs6pDtbTv9tEwG7XKaHB1t0D2TKdrEGUhinCgqnL6DcG2H7EiIAymgO4b0Shxha9G1b-kCdew2T4zEXeGhefP-bxr/s1600/SYDNEY_TOP_MS074_A_0004_large.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEji8XMYCpk_wWitjmwU4mfCegJGNLqSdxx-S55xXR6Au9dqxSakmVwvs6pDtbTv9tEwG7XKaHB1t0D2TKdrEGUhinCgqnL6DcG2H7EiIAymgO4b0Shxha9G1b-kCdew2T4zEXeGhefP-bxr/s320/SYDNEY_TOP_MS074_A_0004_large.jpg" width="280" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifYw21T2AtVSzdTDWQRQCvEzk1MPXi6hBKyvgR70zd1qKqhtAAxk98jI5N5paHd-FuQ7a6fRK8-rPrCrlhGxHDDqFYZeaxvRjS5Sy1bUyqL0x84X0FlNtJHMZJ4IUkaxb9zxvDViSSBIII/s1600/IMG_8505.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifYw21T2AtVSzdTDWQRQCvEzk1MPXi6hBKyvgR70zd1qKqhtAAxk98jI5N5paHd-FuQ7a6fRK8-rPrCrlhGxHDDqFYZeaxvRjS5Sy1bUyqL0x84X0FlNtJHMZJ4IUkaxb9zxvDViSSBIII/s320/IMG_8505.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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It looked to busy so I used some stash linen for contrast. I was debating using darker linen, to match the print (which is actually not flowers but clocks!), but the effect was - well, dark and drab. So I ended up using this lighter linen and I have to say I like the result.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrHDJT4iqIVJQVW9mdWGijLFDi0CoKfb69h_64qtimWNhlEMrQBHBsQF7lxZPkmyH-LHjwcee0mCedr6_p9rJAnr0lyniWMIG69kRvLJAHIR_VebdgjVfqNrq3ZepoW8kKdx3MCiAuS2eK/s1600/IMG_8506.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrHDJT4iqIVJQVW9mdWGijLFDi0CoKfb69h_64qtimWNhlEMrQBHBsQF7lxZPkmyH-LHjwcee0mCedr6_p9rJAnr0lyniWMIG69kRvLJAHIR_VebdgjVfqNrq3ZepoW8kKdx3MCiAuS2eK/s320/IMG_8506.JPG" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipgrjCojzTUs4Pu5GGtfDceNq16wzup9Pm7WyM-gyz1TcVuLKFq0yTMY_ikKxT3fF1RGVwEw7OP_n3HHAEgu6Ejbbq6hXX4QdNlkHKCBCkY7WwQjQi89Sn3o10wxxfHoJgildNoInoZ26K/s1600/IMG_8508.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipgrjCojzTUs4Pu5GGtfDceNq16wzup9Pm7WyM-gyz1TcVuLKFq0yTMY_ikKxT3fF1RGVwEw7OP_n3HHAEgu6Ejbbq6hXX4QdNlkHKCBCkY7WwQjQi89Sn3o10wxxfHoJgildNoInoZ26K/s320/IMG_8508.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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I wish I could show you what it looks like on, but the pattern modifications I did made a difference. It looks really good with skinny pants... probably would with a skirt too, but I haven't try that.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEUGqgpqqTyGvTH5L9bp0VSUPNul2dUhwKpL7LONs9GBw9oX28ofqYy_fTt1dMEQvzZ1E1exkzTRj8UmGMpqSJ-saB3KkHYHxQtim31zccQDsc_rhzPsLAhSM_5rh0dE6HImZlQkvxiTRm/s1600/IMG_8507.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEUGqgpqqTyGvTH5L9bp0VSUPNul2dUhwKpL7LONs9GBw9oX28ofqYy_fTt1dMEQvzZ1E1exkzTRj8UmGMpqSJ-saB3KkHYHxQtim31zccQDsc_rhzPsLAhSM_5rh0dE6HImZlQkvxiTRm/s320/IMG_8507.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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The collar ended up perfect - no need to do any modifications. And it was really easier to put on than I have expected (not having much experience with collars). And the neck gathers add a nice little detail.</div>
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I did not know what exactly to do with the sleeves, so I simply used some bias tape (actually it wasn't cut on bias, I didn't want it to be stretch) and finished the end. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjASHuCpka35RPkHJ-XdE6cOO0t6c_EolFOdB0Y3PLCNRsB_OpNIvr7nwEH5TleeFlvOpArZ6ajIPGfha3A632dkD7HWQdS6okVHm-1-q_UNhADxe5eLhirjKcaV-kOCGqAyc4mdKFBkNKB/s1600/IMG_8509.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjASHuCpka35RPkHJ-XdE6cOO0t6c_EolFOdB0Y3PLCNRsB_OpNIvr7nwEH5TleeFlvOpArZ6ajIPGfha3A632dkD7HWQdS6okVHm-1-q_UNhADxe5eLhirjKcaV-kOCGqAyc4mdKFBkNKB/s320/IMG_8509.JPG" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbjfZrnpuzgsPGeVMr2w1-jEkV-DPZKuEU6JUcDLqVEi8cqJxt2vIf2-HYTAJFqu-vNs2n6Tr1zd2jjJfbKZxPlAp6YWF2qr6FXYXbgPxk4mh36W2AJctmziotSbXeC40EX0POaklEwgzh/s1600/IMG_8510.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbjfZrnpuzgsPGeVMr2w1-jEkV-DPZKuEU6JUcDLqVEi8cqJxt2vIf2-HYTAJFqu-vNs2n6Tr1zd2jjJfbKZxPlAp6YWF2qr6FXYXbgPxk4mh36W2AJctmziotSbXeC40EX0POaklEwgzh/s320/IMG_8510.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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Buttons gave me some grief. These are small buttons, so I was not going to make the loop out of fabric - too small. I didn't have time to go to the store, I needed to finish this (and adding these loops was actually the first step that needed to be done, so I couldn't put it off), so I ended up using some dark thin elastic I had on hand. Ended up being a little too thick, so it's wrinkling the fabric a little around the buttons. I definitely need to use something different next time.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8BogygBB74rJpKoA8VNbzO08qB4v11cBKsjMplsTMGBOOQ7e8iAHlxtIurY_i-rJos3rd5oG2cfec611QJ1Abj5RvRCZSDGWDGO4Qo0770zuJ5r4ExXlufQP1bp9L7atBfeQKGgmbnrNH/s1600/IMG_8511.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8BogygBB74rJpKoA8VNbzO08qB4v11cBKsjMplsTMGBOOQ7e8iAHlxtIurY_i-rJos3rd5oG2cfec611QJ1Abj5RvRCZSDGWDGO4Qo0770zuJ5r4ExXlufQP1bp9L7atBfeQKGgmbnrNH/s320/IMG_8511.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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All in all this was fun to make. Both pattern drafting and sewing (as I mentioned before, cutting fabric is not my favorite thing). And it wasn't that difficult too. I started from the basic sloper and a few modifications later I had this pattern. When you think about how much you modify finished patterns that don't fit - I think this is not too bad.</div>
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As a side note... this fabric made an appearance on another blog this week... it was made into a very different top. Go and check out at <a href="http://cationdesigns.blogspot.com/2012/05/blouse-0219-step-by-step-construction_14.html">Cation Designs</a>.</div>
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Previous Challenge 14 posts:</div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; line-height: 16px;"><a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/05/challenge-14-rossa-shirt-drafting-back.html" style="color: #dd5c2a; text-decoration: none;">Challenge 14:: Rossa shirt:: drafting back and front</a></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; line-height: 16px;"><a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/05/challenge-14-rossa-shirt-drafting-back.html" style="color: #dd5c2a; text-decoration: none;"></a></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif;"><a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/05/challenge-14-drafting-sleeve-and-collar.html" style="color: #ddb2a1; text-decoration: none;">Challenge 14:: Rossa shirt:: drafting sleeve and collar</a></span></div>
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<a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/05/challenge-14-rossa-shirt-muslin-and.html">Challenge 14:: Rossa shirt:: muslin and modifications</a></div>
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<br />Ninahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17022469545932314525noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3359228661163807720.post-22319139374501237302012-05-15T13:44:00.004-07:002012-05-15T22:03:20.429-07:00Challenge 14:: Rossa shirt:: muslin and modifications<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
So... here is the muslin. Again, thrifted sheets came in handy. Cutting the fabrics is not my favorite thing - unlike cutting for quilts which I find therapeutic - so I decided not to cut the collar or the button placket. I just wanted to try the overall fit. I was actually pretty confident I will not have any major problems, as in previous challenges, and I decided to wing it with the collar - which is one thing I haven't done before. And, the collar can be easily redesigned without the need of changing any other pattern pieces.</div>
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It really did fit well. Not perfect though. I found it a bit too short and hem, well, a little bit boring. The sleeve was too long but fit very nicely. The neckline was fine. I did find it a bit boxy, so I decided to taper it in slightly at the waist - this is a loose fitting shirt after all. And to lengthen it a bit and add a bit more width at the hip - not that it was tight or anything, I just thought it would fall more nicely. That's about it. I had no idea how to finish the sleeve at this point, I just knew it would be long...</div>
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So, in the front, at the waist I took in as much as I added originally, so that it was as wide as the basic sloper. I added 2 cm at the hip and lengthen the front by 1 inch. I also decided to have a little opening on the side - 10 cm, so I drew that in too.<br />
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Instead of simple hem finish, I decided to do a decorative band along the hem, so I drew that in too (in red) - I later copied that part because it will be cut separately.</div>
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In the back, same as in the front, I made the waistline as wide as the basic sloper and then I added 1 cm at the hip. I added 2 more inches to the length to make the back a little longer than the front. To match the side opening, I matched the front and back pattern pieces - see pic on the right below.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUysSjE1R7p1gX_R9LapRHZhj8nzdLbXJhe3INpm3VJT1ot_n3Vxjcj9O6-m6zMRYvPgBhDGQO_XiMKsyPraXlXpM4qIiW8HcsFHyaKs7C4oCClOS0FYd9DarBy_dCoORf3KrWFtLPtZWX/s1600/IMG_8501.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUysSjE1R7p1gX_R9LapRHZhj8nzdLbXJhe3INpm3VJT1ot_n3Vxjcj9O6-m6zMRYvPgBhDGQO_XiMKsyPraXlXpM4qIiW8HcsFHyaKs7C4oCClOS0FYd9DarBy_dCoORf3KrWFtLPtZWX/s320/IMG_8501.JPG" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMwfowd7UzXylTJjl_b8JqkDW7PvOujXEBioq_m4E9NJ-xNsg6KeHez8zk2wuyhGIKbZ3Un8iiVogl4vj8D4TlAB1SwTWbl4iwieKJV2_b6uWQrJhA-dE6-TJVe8a8gRP-u2rav1V9oWKU/s1600/IMG_8502.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMwfowd7UzXylTJjl_b8JqkDW7PvOujXEBioq_m4E9NJ-xNsg6KeHez8zk2wuyhGIKbZ3Un8iiVogl4vj8D4TlAB1SwTWbl4iwieKJV2_b6uWQrJhA-dE6-TJVe8a8gRP-u2rav1V9oWKU/s320/IMG_8502.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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I copied the hem piece on both front and back...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGhNMSBLGfeAjYp-RQuLTqjYkr97GiFTteVKv-up6LF0OnmTmI6dlmbqmR_wkldchynwE0z6mXJB-EdvS83-H6VkT3iKgfLhjn33593-OW3AZdyfIFhvxfu0mbroOoG50tGtk5wbZ06FQQ/s1600/IMG_8503.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGhNMSBLGfeAjYp-RQuLTqjYkr97GiFTteVKv-up6LF0OnmTmI6dlmbqmR_wkldchynwE0z6mXJB-EdvS83-H6VkT3iKgfLhjn33593-OW3AZdyfIFhvxfu0mbroOoG50tGtk5wbZ06FQQ/s400/IMG_8503.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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And when I finally cut all the pieces out this is what I had...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_KZwauGyV14DYnuyTO5-B1IiJn-Q1xNK8EkSViuIImWswSy3YLBsyCVAEz1WfAJ3JzXZJAiggJQpIcL48eOoC1ZGQ3PBkNrqDCsUTBY0Al9pRDDXbBN7BfF6Vghb7aCp3RPbHVYLC5kDD/s1600/IMG_8504.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_KZwauGyV14DYnuyTO5-B1IiJn-Q1xNK8EkSViuIImWswSy3YLBsyCVAEz1WfAJ3JzXZJAiggJQpIcL48eOoC1ZGQ3PBkNrqDCsUTBY0Al9pRDDXbBN7BfF6Vghb7aCp3RPbHVYLC5kDD/s400/IMG_8504.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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And now onto the <a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/05/challenge-14-rossa-shirt-finished.html">finished piece</a>...</div>
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Previous Challenge 14 posts:</div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; line-height: 16px;"><a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/05/challenge-14-rossa-shirt-drafting-back.html" style="color: #dd5c2a; text-decoration: none;">Challenge 14:: Rossa shirt:: drafting back and front</a></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; line-height: 16px;"><a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/05/challenge-14-rossa-shirt-drafting-back.html" style="color: #dd5c2a; text-decoration: none;"></a></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif;"><a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/05/challenge-14-drafting-sleeve-and-collar.html" style="color: #ddb2a1; text-decoration: none;">Challenge 14:: Rossa shirt:: drafting sleeve and collar</a></span></div>
<br />Ninahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17022469545932314525noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3359228661163807720.post-44798131630709727332012-05-14T22:33:00.004-07:002012-05-15T13:45:37.378-07:00Challenge 14:: Rossa shirt:: drafting sleeve and collar<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Without any introductions...</div>
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The collar... Measure the length of the neck at the back and the front. This will be half the length of the collar. Choose the with and draw a rectangle with those two measurements. See picture below. To draw a curve, find points 4 (about halfway between 2 and 3, and 5 (about 1.5 cm up from point 3). Finish drawing the collar as in the pic below. Point 2 will be your shoulder seam mark.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhJTc7lzCbd1wGE9gWxZrIqDQ-CGTLPuvcFA9sdeCKL5MocVgoLtySwDtGPtJuCS3WkxgRhaskQYwETzygpIxcZRdj0E7DAKjMjfROqNs9XZP-knfGn4O6bj-ydKQUCWLkAokrs_HhqBWS/s1600/IMG_8483.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhJTc7lzCbd1wGE9gWxZrIqDQ-CGTLPuvcFA9sdeCKL5MocVgoLtySwDtGPtJuCS3WkxgRhaskQYwETzygpIxcZRdj0E7DAKjMjfROqNs9XZP-knfGn4O6bj-ydKQUCWLkAokrs_HhqBWS/s400/IMG_8483.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Take your patterns and just make sure that point 2 actually matches the shoulder seam, by 'sliding' your collar pattern from the back seam toward the shoulder seam.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzeH8g7SeGTIS88sIQm3sq_-ob6CbbGPyNoYCOw-wtyJzTriNNpVq6wJ9nKqZ9p3GCp8lhtdR6MavCrptmqa7FKDa13TB9llSWlJvO1RcF4XYxZAbx6dJiejwngth4cfghefIG7NGXZIjH/s1600/IMG_8495.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzeH8g7SeGTIS88sIQm3sq_-ob6CbbGPyNoYCOw-wtyJzTriNNpVq6wJ9nKqZ9p3GCp8lhtdR6MavCrptmqa7FKDa13TB9llSWlJvO1RcF4XYxZAbx6dJiejwngth4cfghefIG7NGXZIjH/s400/IMG_8495.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Here I will be drawing a shirt sleeve (as per <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Fashion-Series-Garment-Design-Textbook/dp/B004LEPSF8">Bunka Fashion Series Garment Design Textbook 3 - Blouses and Dresses</a>) which is wide due to the small sleeve cap, and has no ease. This is appropriate for relaxed fit garments with deeper arm opening.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">OK, so first, let's figure out the sleeve cap height. copy the arm opening curves for the back and the front next to each other - see the picture on the left. Draw a vertical line from the sideseam up. Draw horizontal lines from the shoulder points toward the vertical lines (points 1 and 2). Find point A halfway between 1 and 2. Measure distance from A to B - half that distance will be the sleeve cap height (C is halfway between A and B; distance from A to C is the sleeve cap height).</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOlu8m3KXpdDe4sSxrXmR1sK8bNijR1RrxhIBWjuK_sImOvAslnr5-xU8aH2-MwiQ-mwbNZOZuwwGwL2wgvTWMzTuSMJu8p7zRLwK1CvVFEJwfbHlURl1pK0dnjglWxTDLQUCWZDRRrXcX/s1600/IMG_8484.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOlu8m3KXpdDe4sSxrXmR1sK8bNijR1RrxhIBWjuK_sImOvAslnr5-xU8aH2-MwiQ-mwbNZOZuwwGwL2wgvTWMzTuSMJu8p7zRLwK1CvVFEJwfbHlURl1pK0dnjglWxTDLQUCWZDRRrXcX/s320/IMG_8484.JPG" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwRVuhkMYCYBbYIPVUmKKrWPEI9YNkTNn3tNK1XO1TH0PIgm2cdlhjhOnSuq416dFHJFNnBMVHFA21p3eq7qhFQ-PMfElGP3xKkZgrgaBVXvm9jnUrPt6x-m8EFeBKwJ2lMs93WRQO-pTJ/s1600/IMG_8485.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwRVuhkMYCYBbYIPVUmKKrWPEI9YNkTNn3tNK1XO1TH0PIgm2cdlhjhOnSuq416dFHJFNnBMVHFA21p3eq7qhFQ-PMfElGP3xKkZgrgaBVXvm9jnUrPt6x-m8EFeBKwJ2lMs93WRQO-pTJ/s320/IMG_8485.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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Now take some tissue paper, or other transparent paper you might use, and put over the drawing in the previous picture. You need to be able to see the arm opening curve clearly. First, lets do the back. </div>
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Extend the shoulder line by 8 cm and then draw a 2.5 cm long line perpendicular to that line. This will give you the angle at which the sleeve is drawn against the back bodice pattern, see pictures below. Connect the triangle and extend by sleeve length (from the shoulder point at the shoulder seam). Next, measure the cap height from the shoulder point. Draw a perpendicular line. This is the line that will be the widest point of the sleeve, right at the bottom of the sleeve cap. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTiRfgNP-FMIOINWP1gOd2w5hGxbdLYESUuCuT_rqrlW0Oc7EW9vrCI3uVmtBH6_s94F3oQrda_VqgA0sjIFtzWuWZ4F43XiKj9cyJ8hBgxRRtH48iUSJCAk0a2wUvsFvOJKVamEECODL8/s1600/IMG_8486.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTiRfgNP-FMIOINWP1gOd2w5hGxbdLYESUuCuT_rqrlW0Oc7EW9vrCI3uVmtBH6_s94F3oQrda_VqgA0sjIFtzWuWZ4F43XiKj9cyJ8hBgxRRtH48iUSJCAk0a2wUvsFvOJKVamEECODL8/s320/IMG_8486.JPG" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivOgSFxQrUSu47m3yAlD72pUB8S2Ub3tQn9pCuN3z2VR5MHgLY4Srg4vTjd8PkADmZIIjUIenvoqPEEH9vRtYajAnYeMMIozfcKewR205cKYtHuv7XAVqX45N0HTXBjW4MgczgKBLuZd-7/s1600/IMG_8487.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivOgSFxQrUSu47m3yAlD72pUB8S2Ub3tQn9pCuN3z2VR5MHgLY4Srg4vTjd8PkADmZIIjUIenvoqPEEH9vRtYajAnYeMMIozfcKewR205cKYtHuv7XAVqX45N0HTXBjW4MgczgKBLuZd-7/s320/IMG_8487.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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Now, draw the sleeve cap curve. Its not as bad as it seams. Start at the shoulder seam; go a bit over the arm opening curve; touch the arm opening curve at about 1/2 length of the arm opening and then curve down to that line you drew for the sleeve width. make sure that the length of the arm curve from 1 to 2 is about the same as the length on the sleeve cap from 1 to 3. Again, there is no ease on this sleeve, but you do want to make sure that the sleeve cap is not shorter than the arm opening on the bodice.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnoItW4G7xVIECTLqNBH-gtzM-i9WyUyGVsvkkWEbjyhr-vtaz90Ob6ONAbEgZimqQ47F8027kbjWTwWrRzX7GgKeiS6ltk13TNbFVSiX9MBYviubIgCYwh4MyiCjpnVrb8OzXnUWS-4qh/s1600/IMG_8488.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnoItW4G7xVIECTLqNBH-gtzM-i9WyUyGVsvkkWEbjyhr-vtaz90Ob6ONAbEgZimqQ47F8027kbjWTwWrRzX7GgKeiS6ltk13TNbFVSiX9MBYviubIgCYwh4MyiCjpnVrb8OzXnUWS-4qh/s320/IMG_8488.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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Finally, draw the hemline of the sleeve, parallel to the sleeve with line and connect to point 3. I made the "hem" a bit narrower - by 1/4 of the whole width. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUe1zbrPDrD8ZIgLGSwuoYhpnc-GbqReuEmtq7LIVevQ6VcmiosiU72XxpXQJGMaA9njc99sytWdYCZBQhvbv_3rdPj0Nvf3DyL4-Xjy908anQSRx6tpd_Qu7Qv-WzS65JlrjWAr1FfV4S/s1600/IMG_8489.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUe1zbrPDrD8ZIgLGSwuoYhpnc-GbqReuEmtq7LIVevQ6VcmiosiU72XxpXQJGMaA9njc99sytWdYCZBQhvbv_3rdPj0Nvf3DyL4-Xjy908anQSRx6tpd_Qu7Qv-WzS65JlrjWAr1FfV4S/s400/IMG_8489.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Repeat the same for the front part of the sleeve with one modification. The front sleeve cap curve needs to be a bit deeper than the back, so your sleeve cap will go slightly above the arm opening first, then cross below about halfway from the shoulder to the point that corresponds to point 1 on the back (at the same height from the top of the side seam). Finish as for the back.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpzLAaYBs4w-gA4oOP6QYHu0tHHGbUmrCQM1ivVBPxkh2qsfN8ku2e8AnT8gWTuiGzHiSYJxKAhraKWZ4OePs2to0Tm5MsBRtf3UdPbovRlveHOzvjyozGXLjKxVbHQGUi-OP8HZ7rqorv/s1600/IMG_8490.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpzLAaYBs4w-gA4oOP6QYHu0tHHGbUmrCQM1ivVBPxkh2qsfN8ku2e8AnT8gWTuiGzHiSYJxKAhraKWZ4OePs2to0Tm5MsBRtf3UdPbovRlveHOzvjyozGXLjKxVbHQGUi-OP8HZ7rqorv/s320/IMG_8490.JPG" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsCnkyk_taLZTayJ7mgU1E1tdsnrG1vvox79VmWNS_svqh0yMVU7FHXWfVU68CWArb1QyBSF9Em6-0V1zuvOHX1ds1jWkQJJtOtkN18szOlVffgJVOozgC5C93rxcanx9LPieKFhWCzIT1/s1600/IMG_8491.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsCnkyk_taLZTayJ7mgU1E1tdsnrG1vvox79VmWNS_svqh0yMVU7FHXWfVU68CWArb1QyBSF9Em6-0V1zuvOHX1ds1jWkQJJtOtkN18szOlVffgJVOozgC5C93rxcanx9LPieKFhWCzIT1/s320/IMG_8491.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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Finish the sleeve as for the back. I took in the same amount at the hem as for the back.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwdBAqcDUp28jF6FOMM5zZ5FUF-R6HO5CmZcbFcpReZKTdt_6uuHRol5UxUMUxcSMbMfX510U1itONrfI8c844AzQ_-zHSjJctR9TgSlXdlK3Q0Tf4xpGjrb6jrq5_O4gA5kwSGWltAbI3/s1600/IMG_8492.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwdBAqcDUp28jF6FOMM5zZ5FUF-R6HO5CmZcbFcpReZKTdt_6uuHRol5UxUMUxcSMbMfX510U1itONrfI8c844AzQ_-zHSjJctR9TgSlXdlK3Q0Tf4xpGjrb6jrq5_O4gA5kwSGWltAbI3/s400/IMG_8492.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Cut the two pieces out and tape them together. I did not cut all the way to the sleeve cap curve, just in case it needed to be adjusted. It did, a bit (ignore the double curve in the back, I actually miscalculated the sleeve cap height fist time around).</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgc5LKeHp13O9g8nivVrVQOgYSiwmBsCzCkXoZ6q-5UyiF9DQg3tnZvZRpdMMt7QfydHQEbw4rk8Qb78xyv4P3QKf-NYnA6ZrEvWxEbFHQTjDAO4PtOhq2doBBrQLhu163NVqk1fPlzJdym/s1600/IMG_8493.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgc5LKeHp13O9g8nivVrVQOgYSiwmBsCzCkXoZ6q-5UyiF9DQg3tnZvZRpdMMt7QfydHQEbw4rk8Qb78xyv4P3QKf-NYnA6ZrEvWxEbFHQTjDAO4PtOhq2doBBrQLhu163NVqk1fPlzJdym/s400/IMG_8493.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Finally, point 1 will be used as a marker for fitting the sleeve, so mark those on the sleeve and on the bodice patterns.</div>
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In <a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2011/11/challenge-7-faros-tunic-finished.html">Challenge 7</a> I used a different method of drafting sleeves (from the same book) - I drafted a <a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2011/11/challenge-7-faros-tunic-drafting-sleeve.html">tighter sleeve</a> with a height sleeve cap; and another <a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2011/11/challenge-7-faros-tunic-drafting-sleeve_17.html">wider</a>, with smaller sleeve cap. You could also use that method to draft a sleeve for this shirt.</div>
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Next... <a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/05/challenge-14-rossa-shirt-muslin-and.html">muslin and modifications</a>.</div>
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Previous Challenge 14 posts:<br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; line-height: 16px;"><a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/05/challenge-14-rossa-shirt-drafting-back.html" style="color: #dd5c2a; text-decoration: none;">Challenge 14:: Rossa shirt:: drafting back and front</a></span><br />
<br />Ninahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17022469545932314525noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3359228661163807720.post-25853492084123839092012-05-13T23:07:00.002-07:002012-05-14T22:35:02.495-07:00Challenge 14:: Rossa shirt:: drafting back and frontYes, I am still here... It's been a while, we had a Spring break (which seems it was just the other day, but it was a month since we've been back actually), then I was distracted by some quilting I just *had* to do, and then I was just, well... uninspired. So, instead of drafting and sewing I was playing around with some thing 'related' to this project. I was learning new tools for making fashion flats, I figured out how to make pattern pdf-s for printing more easily, I have been doing just a bit of fabric shopping and finally last week I have been doing some sewing.<br />
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OK, so let's get to this new challenge. A shirt - specifically this shirt below, <a href="http://www.stevenalan.com/womens/shirting/sydney-top-s12-1-wst0087">Sydney Top</a> from <a href="http://www.stevenalan.com/">Steven Alan</a>. It has a few interesting details - gathering around the neck (<a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2011/10/week-3-sleeveless-top-with-neckline_07.html">done that</a>, should not be a problem), slit neckline (<a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2011/12/challenge-8-steva-dress-finished.html">done that</a> too, except this one comes with buttons so that will be interesting), yoke (<a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2011/11/week-6-kioko-blouse-finished.html">done</a>), and a few new things - collar, shirttail hem with slits and shirt (relaxed) sleeves.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoVp8mp270I2rDGZmjyMeDuVygXiOPvg68Vu6lyYZspPwLi_dmLVwl_Yx-WTORnoLjZm0HlCkZTFJgMSYop01gUz6WzeHEJW_sM8qM9Tk1p6PkTronKN3uAG7N5K4kKl7yQ5b339-bFpcs/s1600/SYDNEY_TOP_MS074_A_0004_large.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoVp8mp270I2rDGZmjyMeDuVygXiOPvg68Vu6lyYZspPwLi_dmLVwl_Yx-WTORnoLjZm0HlCkZTFJgMSYop01gUz6WzeHEJW_sM8qM9Tk1p6PkTronKN3uAG7N5K4kKl7yQ5b339-bFpcs/s320/SYDNEY_TOP_MS074_A_0004_large.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.stevenalan.com/womens/shirting/sydney-top-s12-1-wst0087">Steven Alan Sydney Top</a></td></tr>
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This time, since the basic design is different from <a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/01/so-here-it-comes-new-challenge-and-free.html">Block 1</a>, which is more fitted, I will go back the basic bodice. Let's start with the back first.</div>
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In a nutshell - since this is a relaxed fit, I will make the arm opening wider as well. So we need to move the shoulder dart into the arm opening, draw in a yoke and do some other minor adjustments like the length, and the neck, side and hem shaping.</div>
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So, start with the back bodice: draw in a horizontal line from the tip of the dart - the position where the dart will be moved to, also the position of the yoke. Since I don't want to cut up my bodice, I will do the rotate and trace method. You could also do the slash and move method - cut along the drawn line, cut out the dart, close the dart and secure with tape...</div>
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To copy the pattern with the modifications... trace around your block from the left dart leg, around the neck, along the midline, waistline, up the side seam and along the arm opening until you reach the point where the line you drew touches the arm opening (you can also look <a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2011/10/week-6-kioko-blouse-drafting-and-muslin.html">here</a> for a more detailed drawing).<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv30ncJF_bCXB-95l0G8FPH5sxNPdQnd5cdn_84bk60Ak18s6Kvpw1x_sPKI92nEuaAL4bL5HOxNkFEIaJS8q5F-vxWElEEMaeLyiin41HIErWEFRhr449hOrzeMvOqEmmxzdHdMOt8py1/s1600/IMG_8454.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv30ncJF_bCXB-95l0G8FPH5sxNPdQnd5cdn_84bk60Ak18s6Kvpw1x_sPKI92nEuaAL4bL5HOxNkFEIaJS8q5F-vxWElEEMaeLyiin41HIErWEFRhr449hOrzeMvOqEmmxzdHdMOt8py1/s400/IMG_8454.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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Put a pin in the tip of the dart, and rotate counterclockwise until the right leg of the dart, touches the original position of the left leg (basically you are "closing" the dart). Now trace around the the top right corner of the bodice, the one you did not trace around in the previous step.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjo0w7ezsCvvFAqoZVi_SOKb5PgtGzogUkz0g5y77ozmmzE0MU8QcDyOGVHeA1RJKLo_11tRo_bby8QGTgjpepnfcDw884Y9b-ogCyuD7j2051OzI49ubvKZbJqP2DOTCeSXcwvIvF7J_W/s1600/IMG_8455.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjo0w7ezsCvvFAqoZVi_SOKb5PgtGzogUkz0g5y77ozmmzE0MU8QcDyOGVHeA1RJKLo_11tRo_bby8QGTgjpepnfcDw884Y9b-ogCyuD7j2051OzI49ubvKZbJqP2DOTCeSXcwvIvF7J_W/s400/IMG_8455.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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The picture below shows what you end up with. Since the shoulder line is not straight, fix it by drawing a straight line from the neck to the shoulder point. Also, divide the opening of the new dart into 3 equal parts. Two parts will be added to the arm opening, one part will be used for shaping of the yoke.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidY6AN1VS737RtNFQpouFsejLrb8bs1y04qdab1AEz6icccjvjPDB1EGs9Y4XpAhDZWmRoFdWjCQ_pqc0WFpowO4Gx-Nb-EF6YQ3yC7dSo774xC_r2S8e2v466UZ0RtGfXUcnMpya4AkP4/s1600/IMG_8456.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidY6AN1VS737RtNFQpouFsejLrb8bs1y04qdab1AEz6icccjvjPDB1EGs9Y4XpAhDZWmRoFdWjCQ_pqc0WFpowO4Gx-Nb-EF6YQ3yC7dSo774xC_r2S8e2v466UZ0RtGfXUcnMpya4AkP4/s400/IMG_8456.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Now, add 1.5 cm to the width - this is a relaxed fir after all, and add as much length as you wish - in this case I added 24.5 cm from the waistline.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg69ULMwRP4oDYB8Mbln6FtJlW1WbXxPRrFPKCUILxtKY8ycRu9s04s1ADbKFAFsNgh8z069XJ3CzmGHpqaRyynRI0WM1-L3j7V7DmmFxjyfCRiwmrmRXHEA8ivBitDb13-WUiflsiaZ7H-/s1600/IMG_8457.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg69ULMwRP4oDYB8Mbln6FtJlW1WbXxPRrFPKCUILxtKY8ycRu9s04s1ADbKFAFsNgh8z069XJ3CzmGHpqaRyynRI0WM1-L3j7V7DmmFxjyfCRiwmrmRXHEA8ivBitDb13-WUiflsiaZ7H-/s400/IMG_8457.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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I also added 1cm to the shoulder width, dropping the shoulder slightly (again, the relaxed fit) and deepened the arm opening by 1 cm down the side seam. Draw a new arm opening.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiumQnsxHOr04QXAmJOKiOKWvCC7W8UoZ55im6rU9vBWaapkbD4gx5PoUZ9iiON1g3MzVCtRaR7quN0GextpCPOpED7F1SaHCBlJVDQ7sOB7lBwC4xtznh1mO_ZBwKEBZujw_a2UWgr8LHH/s1600/IMG_8458.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiumQnsxHOr04QXAmJOKiOKWvCC7W8UoZ55im6rU9vBWaapkbD4gx5PoUZ9iiON1g3MzVCtRaR7quN0GextpCPOpED7F1SaHCBlJVDQ7sOB7lBwC4xtznh1mO_ZBwKEBZujw_a2UWgr8LHH/s400/IMG_8458.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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Almost forgot - I deepened the neckline slightly. Personal choice, not really necessary. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNdqewchCbWUcwJf007NK37JFjo3IWIRvYZYzdTWFhz4saXB0FhDhwwjmPzZQRz5G-3M3HQfaVCRu8Z-9kHDM2RUOH-JvqDMXWn85gttCba_L9TLlmSQP6ZeXptIeCmyMBJ23c8239N8XN/s1600/IMG_8459.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNdqewchCbWUcwJf007NK37JFjo3IWIRvYZYzdTWFhz4saXB0FhDhwwjmPzZQRz5G-3M3HQfaVCRu8Z-9kHDM2RUOH-JvqDMXWn85gttCba_L9TLlmSQP6ZeXptIeCmyMBJ23c8239N8XN/s400/IMG_8459.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Draw a new hemline (here I used an old shirt I had; I liked the curve on it). Also, make sure that the width at the hip (of your shirt goes past the hipline) is at least H/4 + 2cm, where H is your hip measurement in cm. This is basically to make sure that there is enough room at the hip. For me, it worked out that I was right on the mark - I did not have to add any shaping to the side seam.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9gokinM97H50URk_yIO5xeBvtDVLyY18dmfjPayXam65yabcM_axtH4nsQ9h3sf3aP5i810wkF9Fa9l7Wf9qBwKayL9Yzn6v3gqbTtBYexw5pNJ17ZHYvQcIFGEAzSuVcyblRiz5b52iK/s1600/IMG_8460.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9gokinM97H50URk_yIO5xeBvtDVLyY18dmfjPayXam65yabcM_axtH4nsQ9h3sf3aP5i810wkF9Fa9l7Wf9qBwKayL9Yzn6v3gqbTtBYexw5pNJ17ZHYvQcIFGEAzSuVcyblRiz5b52iK/s400/IMG_8460.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Finally, draw in the yoke: extend the horizontal line you drew in for the "new" dart - this will be the bottom of the yoke. For a bit of back shaping, and better drape, curve the back (bottom of the pattern) slightly so that the opening at the arm is about the same as the 1/3 of the dart opening.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl7owHuf0fTb0dG3wxB0DnHkSPfHZAOXxNQm4WSM29epiSkKbMAq73t7SSf5V3dhuEFww6KqA0O5i4QFLDS7IkGBlZiRRp16SK4YnmICRX2bYCOWYyRVQbGjnqs96WObwSL2xyqKJ9KL47/s1600/IMG_8461.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl7owHuf0fTb0dG3wxB0DnHkSPfHZAOXxNQm4WSM29epiSkKbMAq73t7SSf5V3dhuEFww6KqA0O5i4QFLDS7IkGBlZiRRp16SK4YnmICRX2bYCOWYyRVQbGjnqs96WObwSL2xyqKJ9KL47/s400/IMG_8461.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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OK, now on to he front part of the pattern. Since this one is more complicated, I first made a copy of it - on the copy I deepened the neckline a bit (see the pic below). I also measured the amount of the dart that will be blended into the arm opening. There is an error on the picture below - it should say 2A not A. If you look on an earlier picture above, the back dart was divided into three parts, and A is a "width" (measured at the arm opening) of one part or 1/3 of the dart. 2/3, or 2A was blended into the back arm opening, so the same amount needs to be blended into the front arm opening to keep the balance between the front and back. The shaded part of the dart will be moved into the neck to get the gathers. There is a little bit of a "V" opening at the neck, so I took 1.5 cm at the neck opening and drew in the "V" down to about 6 cm from the bustline. Cut along that line.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX_1JlGY4so64sGgsBnF0zHFl3W7jPmGSd-xPC_ZBh5fA9p5HXNwmqgF7ORI9o5NX4wK8A-exAU56AqxQPgH04vcyU8nf5C2CC0Hzu3S4FKC3AzAaeS-cEBaqjZ5VYSHSKPjH-ic13LZbR/s1600/IMG_8462.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX_1JlGY4so64sGgsBnF0zHFl3W7jPmGSd-xPC_ZBh5fA9p5HXNwmqgF7ORI9o5NX4wK8A-exAU56AqxQPgH04vcyU8nf5C2CC0Hzu3S4FKC3AzAaeS-cEBaqjZ5VYSHSKPjH-ic13LZbR/s320/IMG_8462.JPG" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1CWVPlMGSomijLBJpoT6nDEwd-zIBxm268zP6zxvrv4FLYUVMiWWJnlhZ55nLwVQtwWSzPykBSRtFLaaaayrmgWIYbK95miICqG9ILFiaEQOj4_GDwdpxMhlHdwHyEHo6LqP7nKMROUeD/s1600/IMG_8463.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1CWVPlMGSomijLBJpoT6nDEwd-zIBxm268zP6zxvrv4FLYUVMiWWJnlhZ55nLwVQtwWSzPykBSRtFLaaaayrmgWIYbK95miICqG9ILFiaEQOj4_GDwdpxMhlHdwHyEHo6LqP7nKMROUeD/s320/IMG_8463.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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Now, draw in the yoke - I chose mine to be about 4 cm from the shoulder seam. When we're done moving the dart, we will cut this out and tape it to the back yoke, to get one pattern piece. Then, divide the remaining neck into three equal parts (points A and B) and draw lines from those points to BP (bust point). I will do the rotation again, but you could also cut along those lines, cut the dart out and open equally at A and B.</div>
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Divide the dart to be moved (the shaded part) into two sections (points 1, 2 and 3). Trace from point 1 counterclockwise around the pattern all the way to point A. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyr-wW8aKCn9qs82Ef7M29mtjpwRc_sVwRA3P4YcXAbXJqdBWn4n0Q-rdQIt9x-52s-SXZ3oZwVQY4a-xTRzsRSTWbtMFroajCmty4LiGFK-aqZNbjbeYc4wBEYB12bMlnG2XdCz06LTT0/s1600/IMG_8474.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyr-wW8aKCn9qs82Ef7M29mtjpwRc_sVwRA3P4YcXAbXJqdBWn4n0Q-rdQIt9x-52s-SXZ3oZwVQY4a-xTRzsRSTWbtMFroajCmty4LiGFK-aqZNbjbeYc4wBEYB12bMlnG2XdCz06LTT0/s400/IMG_8474.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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Put a pin in the tip of the dart and rotate the pattern counterclockwise until point 2 overlaps touches point 1. Trace the pattern from A to B. then rotate once more, until 3 touches 1 (now the dart is closed), and then trace from B around all the way to point 1.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJNGK5Vmr2e7aEiQ9ueZiDqW3qCyek-Lw4LfFcDIXdIOmCFgBG1B73ETmCZFtoGY2rMh7xQFuNjw0jumXWIgKU6m6EKwOG3ncqHnfLk0U3nMtdbVAZY3KnCHCxxurkZ3f6FFiSHpB-FXS_/s1600/IMG_8475.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJNGK5Vmr2e7aEiQ9ueZiDqW3qCyek-Lw4LfFcDIXdIOmCFgBG1B73ETmCZFtoGY2rMh7xQFuNjw0jumXWIgKU6m6EKwOG3ncqHnfLk0U3nMtdbVAZY3KnCHCxxurkZ3f6FFiSHpB-FXS_/s320/IMG_8475.JPG" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKLKmeLyg3eGItY4h5tKYIGQO6KHxN1jjSpHf-ZYMP7Afu5J3auVucUASxy0mftoeYeNmTUuyE_xj-4gm_c09GR4MNOV1Eo7FCiQcfTwONiFr99XTra_xerpRuXx9HSbqqONdBRQCO6foQ/s1600/IMG_8476.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKLKmeLyg3eGItY4h5tKYIGQO6KHxN1jjSpHf-ZYMP7Afu5J3auVucUASxy0mftoeYeNmTUuyE_xj-4gm_c09GR4MNOV1Eo7FCiQcfTwONiFr99XTra_xerpRuXx9HSbqqONdBRQCO6foQ/s320/IMG_8476.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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This is what you end up with ... a very un-smooth neckline. So, smooth it. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXSmc2ouX8h_m-GUBoKVVvgntmlPFICe7CKNtVhYWSluvBcfpKp1lKC54xd0f0knzPaw2V1whfa08oYFUdtzrNLGPxib35oXCStxk9q3QFaHEZtaixsrjmORvvuKKz1pIgpzJDOQTVcWyF/s1600/IMG_8477.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXSmc2ouX8h_m-GUBoKVVvgntmlPFICe7CKNtVhYWSluvBcfpKp1lKC54xd0f0knzPaw2V1whfa08oYFUdtzrNLGPxib35oXCStxk9q3QFaHEZtaixsrjmORvvuKKz1pIgpzJDOQTVcWyF/s400/IMG_8477.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Add 1 cm to the shoulder length (to match the back) and deepen the armhole by 1 cm at the sideseam. Also, add 1 cm to the width, and the length from the waist to match the back. Draw a new arm opening. If the shirt extend beyond the hipline, make sure that the width at the hipline is at least H/4 + 3cm, where H is your hip measurement. Again, in my case I was straight on, so I did not need to do any side shaping. Shape the hemline - I used the same curve as for the back.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7VAhKz6FLDQt_O5B7UrOAm0o0ftzHYfP2Jl4-wF_nj5RnCKhlyaw7eyUev_hftPg2POfQrfB7Xi4hP02Ml3a4Vxo7GCLm8cAr7UquSapGu7rQEEkXALuCY55J0NEcTe81MEzxJ10DbsI5/s1600/IMG_8478.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7VAhKz6FLDQt_O5B7UrOAm0o0ftzHYfP2Jl4-wF_nj5RnCKhlyaw7eyUev_hftPg2POfQrfB7Xi4hP02Ml3a4Vxo7GCLm8cAr7UquSapGu7rQEEkXALuCY55J0NEcTe81MEzxJ10DbsI5/s320/IMG_8478.JPG" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSKhixPX22r-EgEmSc4oBrdazwfRi0XnaodosK3UUDA454XjSnilQLGmfdbTZwJI2iQFU1rilmAMRJG6YoRiXXIWNnNHLIOx5T-tSlUfQrRw4rWhDQa8R6_jyaG4R20Y4i49Mybh-Vsz_E/s1600/IMG_8479.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSKhixPX22r-EgEmSc4oBrdazwfRi0XnaodosK3UUDA454XjSnilQLGmfdbTZwJI2iQFU1rilmAMRJG6YoRiXXIWNnNHLIOx5T-tSlUfQrRw4rWhDQa8R6_jyaG4R20Y4i49Mybh-Vsz_E/s320/IMG_8479.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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Since the neckline will be slit and there will be buttons we need to draw in the lapel. I chose it to be 2 cm wide, and to extend all the way to the waist. I used the actual buttons I will use of the shirt to mark button positions.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC6L5XVQ33JxBL6F6ANT7nBt8kQurClVdgFjDxGdbLR7wpkpxx05tIdjAQqzfVyQirEhYnT7djaX9P4WuU1Onyrj-7hGyrWNGaGPjbMURR3cxWLCzdHrWuIkqFu8Wg2fRIhLiulUbVoOp4/s1600/IMG_8480.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC6L5XVQ33JxBL6F6ANT7nBt8kQurClVdgFjDxGdbLR7wpkpxx05tIdjAQqzfVyQirEhYnT7djaX9P4WuU1Onyrj-7hGyrWNGaGPjbMURR3cxWLCzdHrWuIkqFu8Wg2fRIhLiulUbVoOp4/s320/IMG_8480.JPG" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmRrSVCKKmw8OFN3v1wpWOHew5tHskp1WlEgzw_CgwTFec1e2ka9bHXh1vD4A_bDQTyy1ziEapVapogmFLnUdItjrpaKbbcohFfhP1FKwgugG-R8ZrlWfBUKYQFspAlrxciw30mX9Rg9WC/s1600/IMG_8481.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmRrSVCKKmw8OFN3v1wpWOHew5tHskp1WlEgzw_CgwTFec1e2ka9bHXh1vD4A_bDQTyy1ziEapVapogmFLnUdItjrpaKbbcohFfhP1FKwgugG-R8ZrlWfBUKYQFspAlrxciw30mX9Rg9WC/s320/IMG_8481.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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Finally, tape the front and back along the shoulder line, and check the neck and arm curve - make sure it is smooth along the shoulder seam; smooth if necessary - i needed to fix the neck curve - see below. Cut the yoke out and you have the basic three pattern pieces - front, back and the yoke.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-KoTotRsUA9j82TAQWRB7yq4RmHmr60RZd5l2uxO2gwo12Ek4BVm89f50FktPCRZf0_vS9pONl5eNrMq96DdXFmXakYVlodzsI0d0xulwC0pGkHe0Zzg6wFBCU8HDPU6HoaY0nahJb7JU/s1600/IMG_8482.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-KoTotRsUA9j82TAQWRB7yq4RmHmr60RZd5l2uxO2gwo12Ek4BVm89f50FktPCRZf0_vS9pONl5eNrMq96DdXFmXakYVlodzsI0d0xulwC0pGkHe0Zzg6wFBCU8HDPU6HoaY0nahJb7JU/s400/IMG_8482.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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Next we will <a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/05/challenge-14-drafting-sleeve-and-collar.html">draft the sleeve and the collar</a>.</div>
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<br /></div>Ninahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17022469545932314525noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3359228661163807720.post-8701119441558884592012-03-20T16:47:00.001-07:002012-03-20T16:48:03.845-07:00Challenge 13:: Pieve skirt:: finished<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
OK, and now for the finished skirt.</div>
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On the left is the inspiration from <a href="http://www.bodenusa.com/en-US/Womens-Skirts/Knee-Length-Skirts/WG430-PNK/Womens-Petal-Mono-Floral-Printed-Cotton-Skirt.html">Boden</a> and on the right is the skirt I drafted. It looks pretty similar - I don't actually know how much the <a href="http://www.bodenusa.com/en-US/Womens-Skirts/Knee-Length-Skirts/WG430-PNK/Womens-Petal-Mono-Floral-Printed-Cotton-Skirt.html">Boden</a> skirt flares at the hem - they don't give those measurements - but it looks pretty close.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje_dJ7c9z4cN7qB2sWMOC2lC7GWTlGQ0OvQb_Gpw3HG0Yf1N0d0vq-jPgXPpWo3hcmGEPlp_DiZ2xFGKdBPjf0E7LuLsOyfyzasIdEoimnlH0T8bmZxseqTlZ3jdhXcjX0gdMpKYFdl-O6/s1600/blogger-image-338322590.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje_dJ7c9z4cN7qB2sWMOC2lC7GWTlGQ0OvQb_Gpw3HG0Yf1N0d0vq-jPgXPpWo3hcmGEPlp_DiZ2xFGKdBPjf0E7LuLsOyfyzasIdEoimnlH0T8bmZxseqTlZ3jdhXcjX0gdMpKYFdl-O6/s1600/blogger-image-338322590.jpg" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirxwoyp0MGB-FtSSUZvIfE6RoZzp2S1v_48Fsg8W8P4ibM-gYk24PAtuNfta1XuuHiWWyAow0MT2zIIn8SoB0QAvrwcEj6QUdOkK1IG2bmJUXEj7sjvuezqblcubsyGRz5jUh-w_RJe5fG/s1600/IMG_8423.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirxwoyp0MGB-FtSSUZvIfE6RoZzp2S1v_48Fsg8W8P4ibM-gYk24PAtuNfta1XuuHiWWyAow0MT2zIIn8SoB0QAvrwcEj6QUdOkK1IG2bmJUXEj7sjvuezqblcubsyGRz5jUh-w_RJe5fG/s320/IMG_8423.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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And now for some details: skirt in the original pattern started at the waist and was about 56 cm long (22 in). I typically prefer skirts that sit a bit below the waist (the Boden skirt sits at waist) so I took off 2 cm from the waist. I cut the skirt using that pattern. Then I wanted to add the black "band", or maybe it would be better called a yoke, so I cut another 2 cm to use as the pattern for the "yoke". The second and third picture below show how I made the "yoke" pattern for the back.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3RjRgeUxGjM8piUJ-0JCHA6wis_Y9NDu3-Xjb7Q1W1uXWAyn-BrVD_v7Dq2BIuMCyefD5VnBCyunWjfAhkCSQjxgdUfm5VtnhF15L8Lpo4CwxeEJt9TYhZ7JndKi_BCOBkOeT5ysbvux-/s1600/IMG_8414.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3RjRgeUxGjM8piUJ-0JCHA6wis_Y9NDu3-Xjb7Q1W1uXWAyn-BrVD_v7Dq2BIuMCyefD5VnBCyunWjfAhkCSQjxgdUfm5VtnhF15L8Lpo4CwxeEJt9TYhZ7JndKi_BCOBkOeT5ysbvux-/s320/IMG_8414.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1Jg9g6VHIL7K4NrkMDKfmOfMQCabBpnwTh-lPxH3Eb0cHvzbvxZf_zqfYBqAV9zQK2MIM0v9IfIFbWHIbXMcGJQWEdTb1ndRKa75xJmjDlce4zzlkQCh3q0XSSGwjYMsBoMWb5LpO70pZ/s1600/IMG_8415.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1Jg9g6VHIL7K4NrkMDKfmOfMQCabBpnwTh-lPxH3Eb0cHvzbvxZf_zqfYBqAV9zQK2MIM0v9IfIFbWHIbXMcGJQWEdTb1ndRKa75xJmjDlce4zzlkQCh3q0XSSGwjYMsBoMWb5LpO70pZ/s320/IMG_8415.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS0dGB0NVxlsCTpZs3zR3N8WoQtVj2jBCq_ETU-A_PABG8nfzvmGaXQYDzdJejyvgGEcctD-GqVV_PYBXCywQPTuH6iFIpbXwvYuP-CZMbPTfJjCnzjBmBmUTT2DMe95p1_F9y5xXQFumJ/s1600/IMG_8416.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS0dGB0NVxlsCTpZs3zR3N8WoQtVj2jBCq_ETU-A_PABG8nfzvmGaXQYDzdJejyvgGEcctD-GqVV_PYBXCywQPTuH6iFIpbXwvYuP-CZMbPTfJjCnzjBmBmUTT2DMe95p1_F9y5xXQFumJ/s320/IMG_8416.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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And this is what it looks like on the form... I don't know if you can really tell, but it fits really well, slightly below the waist, to elongate the torso.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5yxOZ_WsdqoohPKYFkA0hwbU7n59Iz7I3cdDOMLB9mpR4nLArD0Dt4o3WamAhJushhfPVtI5zAupfOL7LOqR6u4PGthgx7smedSu_ROI-58yMkRYehl4GxZTh9h78meSxCViHwsV-suFY/s1600/IMG_8417.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5yxOZ_WsdqoohPKYFkA0hwbU7n59Iz7I3cdDOMLB9mpR4nLArD0Dt4o3WamAhJushhfPVtI5zAupfOL7LOqR6u4PGthgx7smedSu_ROI-58yMkRYehl4GxZTh9h78meSxCViHwsV-suFY/s320/IMG_8417.JPG" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRNvTPNTV8mtRIobo0cRxP8DYWJL79v80Z0sx3x1PuC5SMirL1mfC_vvrQTxKodrlvzpqwxrDcg1sc3soqV-FoBFwTgYiFD9e9F_sdsN_IoAj6OvlBr14feQX5Xtlr3gVggz8HtOTThr-9/s1600/IMG_8418.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRNvTPNTV8mtRIobo0cRxP8DYWJL79v80Z0sx3x1PuC5SMirL1mfC_vvrQTxKodrlvzpqwxrDcg1sc3soqV-FoBFwTgYiFD9e9F_sdsN_IoAj6OvlBr14feQX5Xtlr3gVggz8HtOTThr-9/s320/IMG_8418.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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I was never very good at zippers, and I made an attempt to do an invisible zipper. It wasn't too bad, but in all honesty, It should be ripped out and put back in.</div>
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It's really hard to tell, but the picture on the right below is actually the back. Not very exciting, is it?</div>
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The fabric is a printed linen I bought downtown LA ages ago for $1/yard. I still have 2 yards left. The black yoke and the bias tape at the hem are also linen. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1Ny4TzsiK5hsBcAeFrXrj4rMlIrjyf3wn1AjvKsaoy6TjkGqTulFdjrtbr3fdV0ivEJHxXWT8HpEv-jAe5zvPyRphLhKebYiKTxE-uVqmyX6LtGIqviosbjcshUPd02q1SPnnTphxPSNA/s1600/IMG_8420.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1Ny4TzsiK5hsBcAeFrXrj4rMlIrjyf3wn1AjvKsaoy6TjkGqTulFdjrtbr3fdV0ivEJHxXWT8HpEv-jAe5zvPyRphLhKebYiKTxE-uVqmyX6LtGIqviosbjcshUPd02q1SPnnTphxPSNA/s320/IMG_8420.JPG" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtzqwNyaVlaV-EBZrWky8uAcC77A6VUu4_iPYSeoWLOVHHSixtRzKoZ3sP-3NUWA2MMG3qXDCScbpaXY33DvA_qhgZg6kVkZNoctvI43cDlg6iCF_nIzzwRCsla8NBt4SAodOIcAhl3HVA/s1600/IMG_8421.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtzqwNyaVlaV-EBZrWky8uAcC77A6VUu4_iPYSeoWLOVHHSixtRzKoZ3sP-3NUWA2MMG3qXDCScbpaXY33DvA_qhgZg6kVkZNoctvI43cDlg6iCF_nIzzwRCsla8NBt4SAodOIcAhl3HVA/s320/IMG_8421.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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I really like this skirt. I think it's just flared enough to be a little less formal then the straight skirt, but formal enough so you can make it as a part of a suit. I think a few variations are in order... </div>
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Some techniques you might find useful:</div>
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<a href="http://www.coletterie.com/tutorials-tips-tricks/tutorial-installing-an-invisible-zipper">Installing an Invisible Zipper</a></div>
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Previous Challenge 13 posts:</div>
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<a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/03/challenge-13-pieve-skirt.html">Challenge 13:: Pieve skirt:: intro and drafting</a></div>
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<br />Ninahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17022469545932314525noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3359228661163807720.post-58496718145931732622012-03-20T13:32:00.001-07:002012-03-20T16:48:29.442-07:00Challenge 13:: Pieve skirt:: intro and drafting<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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To change it up a bit, I decided to move away from the top pattern and try something different. Recently I received a new <a href="http://www.bodenusa.com/">Boden</a> catalog and this skirt (among other things - I really like their dresses too, even though I do not own a single dress; yes, I can't believe it myself) caught my attention.</div>
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I have been looking at skirt pattern drafting recently and what I have learned is that to get rid of the waist darts you basically need to close them by opening or flaring the skirt at the hem. This skirt however, has no front darts, but it is only slightly flared at the hem. The first picture is from their site, the second one is a photo of the same skirt in the catalog where you can see the shape. </div>
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So, the challenge became to try to manipulate the basic skirt pattern and get a pattern similar to this.<br />
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<a href="http://www.bodenimages.com/productimages/productThumb160x207/12WSPR_WG430_PNK.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://www.bodenimages.com/productimages/productThumb160x207/12WSPR_WG430_PNK.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.bodenusa.com/en-US/Womens-Skirts/Knee-Length-Skirts/WG430-PNK/Womens-Petal-Mono-Floral-Printed-Cotton-Skirt.html">Boden - Printed Cotton Skirt</a></td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje_dJ7c9z4cN7qB2sWMOC2lC7GWTlGQ0OvQb_Gpw3HG0Yf1N0d0vq-jPgXPpWo3hcmGEPlp_DiZ2xFGKdBPjf0E7LuLsOyfyzasIdEoimnlH0T8bmZxseqTlZ3jdhXcjX0gdMpKYFdl-O6/s1600/blogger-image-338322590.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje_dJ7c9z4cN7qB2sWMOC2lC7GWTlGQ0OvQb_Gpw3HG0Yf1N0d0vq-jPgXPpWo3hcmGEPlp_DiZ2xFGKdBPjf0E7LuLsOyfyzasIdEoimnlH0T8bmZxseqTlZ3jdhXcjX0gdMpKYFdl-O6/s200/blogger-image-338322590.jpg" width="150" /></a></div>
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I looked through a few books I have, and the only thing I could find is how to make an "A" skirt from a basic pattern, which is what I mentioned before - close the darts by opening at the hem. But what that does, is it widens the skirt at both the hem and the hipline. Let me show you what I mean:</div>
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The picture on the left is the front pattern for the basic pencil skirt (drafted from the <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Bunka-Fashion-Garment-Design-Textbook/dp/B003MO63S4"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;">Bunka Fashion Series Garment Design Textbook 2 - Skirts & Pants</span></a>). To get an "A" line skirt (without front darts - which is the challenge here), cut from the dart all the way down to the hem and then spread apart, until darts are closed. The pic on the right is the dartless "A" line front pattern. You would do the same in the back.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ6dGfcd9ljGkSvZsyB1QjnzLEbG7z6g3hcZtGk-rZEL-V9jbFnHP9rhmS2pd445Y1LupNjfYEYjKyrpPnKAqSEgp5a92WzU_Sd4y34n61mWso0Mm8pkU3WX2qrrNvt1juiNa1-dxiZ_im/s1600/basic+front.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ6dGfcd9ljGkSvZsyB1QjnzLEbG7z6g3hcZtGk-rZEL-V9jbFnHP9rhmS2pd445Y1LupNjfYEYjKyrpPnKAqSEgp5a92WzU_Sd4y34n61mWso0Mm8pkU3WX2qrrNvt1juiNa1-dxiZ_im/s320/basic+front.png" width="176" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdOa1rnQtx15LtEPufPQqxUqFtAnfu0O4bmly3vxzrOM29iwccV0ZDwy6iAkE_5EIYVll0oMpQQv8Z-_oKxj-uwIIAR8aAHieRB6nER0ZQyDZXrHFsOq0zOOQ-cKALVCTf-7ph3G5DxAQJ/s1600/basic+A.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdOa1rnQtx15LtEPufPQqxUqFtAnfu0O4bmly3vxzrOM29iwccV0ZDwy6iAkE_5EIYVll0oMpQQv8Z-_oKxj-uwIIAR8aAHieRB6nER0ZQyDZXrHFsOq0zOOQ-cKALVCTf-7ph3G5DxAQJ/s320/basic+A.png" width="245" /></a></div>
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Notice the hipline. It curves up at the side seam, similar to the waistline, but it also becomes wider, by the amount opened by closing the darts (shaded area). Just to give you an example: The length of the hipline on the basic pattern was: 26.5 cm; and on the "A" line skirt is 30.9 cm. That's a 4.4 cm difference, which would add up to 8.8 cm wider hipline only in the front. Now, that's not a problem, if you are making a flared skirt like that. But I wanted a dartless (front) skirt that has the same hipline measurement as the pencil skirt. There has to be some flare added, just because we need to add the volume somewhere otherwise the skirt would not fit right, not on our normal 3 dimensional bodies (that's why you can't just remove the darts, or simply move them to the side seams).</div>
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OK, so finally, this is what I did (you can do it to, if you have a basic pattern for a straight skirt, even if it's with one dart - you will just do one step instead of two).</div>
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Step 1:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1HXUcBIrK1hnUxpnbBqjR6dCKiULgSEATR0HkNBiS9BxXnSAx7sgrXITemAlu0lRF-6hBrnNBBFExz_0mfktzUew2AF0kJ5g_rMiiQlQW2gcWoZ05y5p02YkksodH2L62MyxWF8b3qan1/s1600/basic+to+dartless+step+1.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1HXUcBIrK1hnUxpnbBqjR6dCKiULgSEATR0HkNBiS9BxXnSAx7sgrXITemAlu0lRF-6hBrnNBBFExz_0mfktzUew2AF0kJ5g_rMiiQlQW2gcWoZ05y5p02YkksodH2L62MyxWF8b3qan1/s320/basic+to+dartless+step+1.png" width="200" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_vtce01ummr6N4M_q0y5uy6M6F_Y90W7GHHgwgr3tjkHpx_yetJGnt9WFmJngDMkOqLo78EDeD9nGqIp_J_F16J63QKn_oehcId3RklYxFI9B4M_b6KpYTdKKWuETLnd4FwVyy6MwO5n7/s1600/basic+to+dartless+step+2.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_vtce01ummr6N4M_q0y5uy6M6F_Y90W7GHHgwgr3tjkHpx_yetJGnt9WFmJngDMkOqLo78EDeD9nGqIp_J_F16J63QKn_oehcId3RklYxFI9B4M_b6KpYTdKKWuETLnd4FwVyy6MwO5n7/s320/basic+to+dartless+step+2.png" width="187" /></a></div>
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I did this using the drafting software, but you can also do this using paper and pencil. I would recommend copying your pattern on thinner, transparent paper and then use that with the original under the copy. </div>
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First, cut from the dart closer to the midline down to the hem. Now start closing the dart until the distance between A (on the original; right side of the dart) and A1 (on the copy, the left side of the dart) is the same as the distance between B and B1 (B and B1 are both on the horizontal line which is the original hemline).</div>
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Then, cut all the way through the dart so you can move the left side of your pattern. Move the left side horizontally until B1 overlaps B (make sure you are not rotating your pattern). This will close the dart all the way (A1 will overlap A). The pattern pieces will overlap some (the shaded area in the pic on the right. Secure the pattern and use it for the next step.</div>
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Step 2:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbilrTFDRMpVJ3Y_IA6YSS9d8mHsObUKykHC-ucSckltlTdNE6rD2P2GJ0IhfAV5xtMQpfcvgV6kgQkOL1CyKNqel-ZLKQlILIzrFbDmEfCaCWLcN00PXlE0wsMJxWdLXzOFyz1XAcfucG/s1600/basic+to+dartless+step+3.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbilrTFDRMpVJ3Y_IA6YSS9d8mHsObUKykHC-ucSckltlTdNE6rD2P2GJ0IhfAV5xtMQpfcvgV6kgQkOL1CyKNqel-ZLKQlILIzrFbDmEfCaCWLcN00PXlE0wsMJxWdLXzOFyz1XAcfucG/s320/basic+to+dartless+step+3.png" width="202" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8MPDoJatyX7BuosVu0dGpEmxw3C7L25DOBNkCVQ1oNcxIPumgJI4ikN0wqz2FmF7d3sQSHVWPwPIwlBld6LPbEeOyf9uThg0dOqp48BrvIFNR55roOgtRHGjcN5wouMs9cPertBI5rdb5/s1600/basic+to+dartless+step+4.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8MPDoJatyX7BuosVu0dGpEmxw3C7L25DOBNkCVQ1oNcxIPumgJI4ikN0wqz2FmF7d3sQSHVWPwPIwlBld6LPbEeOyf9uThg0dOqp48BrvIFNR55roOgtRHGjcN5wouMs9cPertBI5rdb5/s320/basic+to+dartless+step+4.png" width="195" /></a></div>
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If you started with a pattern with 1 dart, you are done. Otherwise, repeat the procedure in step 1. So, cut from the other dart down to the hem (the new one) and rotate until distance between C and C1 is the same as the distance between D and D1 (D and D1 are both on the horizontal, original hemline). Then, move the left part of the pattern to the right such that D1 overlaps D. This will close this dart too, and the front is done. Since both darts are closed, no darts in the front. Note that the waistline curves up, same as the new hipline which should be basically the same length as the original hipline.<br />
Just for comparison, below is the picture showing the dartless "A" skirt (green) compared to this version (red).<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8wfmbzNdd-cXaICdGjEqzGWBPUSO7onSEmhXIw4h8SuR2Sa6RGKC5xSRZxxi3MCtGhw98iHLdXh8jHb9Q6iOVEV9aaRAQfofRcViPcy1mAByaw4xy70CnJztTgWHnC5hUrX9MRNT-6VEg/s1600/A+line+no+dart+comparison.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8wfmbzNdd-cXaICdGjEqzGWBPUSO7onSEmhXIw4h8SuR2Sa6RGKC5xSRZxxi3MCtGhw98iHLdXh8jHb9Q6iOVEV9aaRAQfofRcViPcy1mAByaw4xy70CnJztTgWHnC5hUrX9MRNT-6VEg/s320/A+line+no+dart+comparison.png" width="262" /></a></div>
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For the back (which I will not show here), you will do a similar thing... you cannot completely close the darts because the darts are wider in the back which will crete a poorly balanced skirt - much wider in the back than the front (unless you want it that way). To get the balance right, measure how much the hem opened when you partially closed each dart on the front. Then when you are closing the darts, close them in such a way that the amount you open at the hem is the same amount you opened in the front for a corresponding dart (so, if in step 1, the opening at the hem was 5cm, the opening at the hem in the back, when you close the first dart should be 5cm). The darts will not close all the way, but that's OK.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgh88ns3rKOjtLB_4-Dyk_10OpJ-G8QN1ECUNZMPq3Pjdlxl5mV_83wJTahKTYvq4dSC8CmvAGD8nEPbOSQL5XkWG4b_sp-XoGZcSoaM1-1CBaKKXCcHLx8swcaaY8ksOu2zVQr62e3Dejp/s1600/IMG_8410.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgh88ns3rKOjtLB_4-Dyk_10OpJ-G8QN1ECUNZMPq3Pjdlxl5mV_83wJTahKTYvq4dSC8CmvAGD8nEPbOSQL5XkWG4b_sp-XoGZcSoaM1-1CBaKKXCcHLx8swcaaY8ksOu2zVQr62e3Dejp/s320/IMG_8410.JPG" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwQJHC1ei6GBrZ5gzRwXqFqc-u-nICEmZCKo1NC3C35XCqYfTCKZBlq0VkKjdr2CmQZ9UgZqC3zfDwppdOAHGk7mJzd4LPeJDNpSTgVyeRG9hkN7PxF0epFW3KzhAAO10ew3p2EWLI7Gw2/s1600/IMG_8411.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwQJHC1ei6GBrZ5gzRwXqFqc-u-nICEmZCKo1NC3C35XCqYfTCKZBlq0VkKjdr2CmQZ9UgZqC3zfDwppdOAHGk7mJzd4LPeJDNpSTgVyeRG9hkN7PxF0epFW3KzhAAO10ew3p2EWLI7Gw2/s320/IMG_8411.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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Finally, this is the finished pattern and the muslin. I transferred the hemline on the fabric just to make sure it sits horizontally when the skirt is put on:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmfCHNRzCH_zPS6E0vQzj0JobsZ_n3SjEmUMZxZorciqazwPw0ED-8cu57LMyamahQcz19nzfT42zPILqfSnSaNl7hH7K02ESYqfrd93YXaDfO1QUBm35M8wOWLsBH-ey7aUxocyPaSUWv/s1600/IMG_8412.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmfCHNRzCH_zPS6E0vQzj0JobsZ_n3SjEmUMZxZorciqazwPw0ED-8cu57LMyamahQcz19nzfT42zPILqfSnSaNl7hH7K02ESYqfrd93YXaDfO1QUBm35M8wOWLsBH-ey7aUxocyPaSUWv/s320/IMG_8412.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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I was really, really happy when I saw how nicely it fit. The only little problem was a little bulging, just below the waistline, but that's only a little mistake in drawing the sideseam. Easily fixed.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsG_cTOo8M3DUoYM7Job-I1o1_M1VI_C58_l8fNAYypfzrdYjkny5b8_3Zn9rsCvcJO5O6B9KWHQ3_oHKSFJfscVAJgjTpH9gYf5_eV8R8REufKvUHG1N9w4X5uWByX53ouZ6Nr1IKjHY_/s1600/IMG_8413.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsG_cTOo8M3DUoYM7Job-I1o1_M1VI_C58_l8fNAYypfzrdYjkny5b8_3Zn9rsCvcJO5O6B9KWHQ3_oHKSFJfscVAJgjTpH9gYf5_eV8R8REufKvUHG1N9w4X5uWByX53ouZ6Nr1IKjHY_/s320/IMG_8413.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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Next: the <a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/03/challenge-13-pieve-skirt_20.html">finished skirt</a>.<br />
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<br /></div>Ninahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17022469545932314525noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3359228661163807720.post-64238206560459178132012-03-09T11:37:00.002-08:002012-03-09T11:37:58.119-08:00Let's RecapI am about to draft something different - a skirt this time, so I thought a little recap of the last few challenges would be in order...<br />
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Early this year I <a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/01/so-here-it-comes-new-challenge-and-free.html">drafted a pattern</a> which I (very plainly) called Basic Block 1. I wanted to create a basic pattern which I could use to make a number of different garments. But not just - change a neckline, or shorten, or different sleeve length type of changes, which are common in patterns that are published today. These are useful too, but I wanted to go a step further and show that by doing some relatively simple modifications (drafting), you can make patterns for garments that are quite varied - from simple sleeveless top, to drop shoulder tops to strappy dresses (just to name a few).<br />
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Here is that basic block (easy fitting, but not too much ease; just enough to be able to pull over head with a wide neckline):<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifNiHptYIMfjTAIUVSehrxiFmrKPnD6vfZrkeyKIOhDPPc-Jq8l-NeStqCAO91mbncA8-qbNrU5W3PdgDH-FEWXpMY3FaurDAXX3thN1pIm602O8y6fzP4ijNclTnS7Ccd0pLrw2rJZO1J/s1600/basic+A+line+block+technical+drawing.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifNiHptYIMfjTAIUVSehrxiFmrKPnD6vfZrkeyKIOhDPPc-Jq8l-NeStqCAO91mbncA8-qbNrU5W3PdgDH-FEWXpMY3FaurDAXX3thN1pIm602O8y6fzP4ijNclTnS7Ccd0pLrw2rJZO1J/s320/basic+A+line+block+technical+drawing.png" width="308" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/01/so-here-it-comes-new-challenge-and-free.html">Basic Block 1</a></td></tr>
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And here are the four garments I drafted using this pattern (clockwise from top left): <a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/01/challenge-9-ulla-top-finished.html">Ulla top</a>, <a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/02/challenge-11-marina-top-finished.html">Marina top</a>, <a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/03/challenge-12-blomma-dress-finished.html">Blomma dress</a> and <a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/02/challenge-10-editt-finished.html">Editt top</a>.<br /><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY7dQvIuigOY938ZXigW9Q5AQH6RvG2krE1xX7t5iTHP_L1hNuSClymMMgqeMt6vlLOZnyv7vioykf4SDtPcMo4-cTCuBgk-QhzT7XGAHDE-JB_AA1JEAqhLSmpT49u0OCMuzImV35d1YO/s1600/Picnik+collage+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY7dQvIuigOY938ZXigW9Q5AQH6RvG2krE1xX7t5iTHP_L1hNuSClymMMgqeMt6vlLOZnyv7vioykf4SDtPcMo4-cTCuBgk-QhzT7XGAHDE-JB_AA1JEAqhLSmpT49u0OCMuzImV35d1YO/s640/Picnik+collage+1.jpg" width="433" /></a></div>
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Pattern modifications I used and explained were: simple neck and arm opening (re)shaping, <a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/01/challenge-9-ulla-top-finished.html">adjustment of deep necklines</a>, <a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/02/challenge-11-marina-top-finished.html">drafting french sleeve</a>, moving bust darts (<a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/02/challenge-10-editt-finished.html">Editt</a> and <a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/02/challenge-11-marina-top-finished.html">Marina</a> tops) and <a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/03/challenge-12-blomma-dress-finished.html">drafting flounces</a>. And these are really not that complicated and you don't need any special tools.</div>
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How many times have you been able to take a pattern and make a garment that fits you without any pattern modifications? So if you are already making these modifications, why not start from a basic pattern like this, and make a design you like. If you know a few drafting tricks, you can basically make anything you want. This is exactly what I want to show on this blog!</div>
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I will be making more of these. I will be adding a couple of different sleeve designs to show how you can mix and match to get even more designs. </div>
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And if you are interested in learning how to draft a simple skirt, that's what I will be doing next.</div>
<br /></div>Ninahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17022469545932314525noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3359228661163807720.post-31221928438067925742012-03-07T14:15:00.000-08:002012-03-07T14:15:00.386-08:00Challenge 12:: Blomma dress:: finished<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I have no idea why it took so long to get this one done! And it is a relatively easy project. Well, maybe because I had <a href="http://www.flekka.com/words/quilt/two-new-projects/">two other projects</a> floating in my head. The ones that fall under the "must try right away" category.</div>
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And then yesterday I had to go downtown (the LA Garment District). Yes, I did say "had" to because I needed some white fleece for a design wall I (my dear Mr.) will be making this weekend. The movable design wall will not only be useful for my quilts, but I plan to use it when I cut fabrics like chiffon or silk, those that just move too much to be cut on a slippery surface - like my hardwood floors where I do all my other cutting, quilt basting and such. Of course I bought other fabrics too (:-)</div>
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OK, back to the dress. In the previous post I mentioned that the only change to the pattern I would make is to make the top flounce (yes, that's the word, not "ruffle"; thank you <span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/profile/17314030133556269765" style="border-bottom-width: 0px; border-color: initial; border-left-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px; border-style: initial; border-top-width: 0px; color: #1155cc; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-weight: inherit; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">katherine h</a>) a little narrower on one side so that you can actually see the flounce below. Well, it turns out I did not have to make any changes, because I sewed the flounces on the muslin wrong - the top one under the bottom one. This is what they were meant to look like.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCTnm2uGlFZJEzZuusBRiFoXxPEHchXjJp9zcwSnv41SaWnqAzynuowHKzakis0QV-JeCIo40cVoY1dqj7HL7pEHTAui1u9ZKAy6Bm9Xyc6Vx_WIrIHSoDkDUNQo0pRycflX5Se6DoHB7y/s1600/IMG_8350.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCTnm2uGlFZJEzZuusBRiFoXxPEHchXjJp9zcwSnv41SaWnqAzynuowHKzakis0QV-JeCIo40cVoY1dqj7HL7pEHTAui1u9ZKAy6Bm9Xyc6Vx_WIrIHSoDkDUNQo0pRycflX5Se6DoHB7y/s320/IMG_8350.JPG" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ3dzkz0zVcLAkhUTjSL0iGSATxR-DPTWyDSIxQZgGKwLQVzt19lUrbpxOZYX9EKrrlFWvLjVOb_rD46ksnxKwmy3DXUeWrc4E8X37J5Rrnq7mQBXiZqw7AquQ1yu15n8HUQKtMaJ45A-A/s1600/IMG_8351.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ3dzkz0zVcLAkhUTjSL0iGSATxR-DPTWyDSIxQZgGKwLQVzt19lUrbpxOZYX9EKrrlFWvLjVOb_rD46ksnxKwmy3DXUeWrc4E8X37J5Rrnq7mQBXiZqw7AquQ1yu15n8HUQKtMaJ45A-A/s320/IMG_8351.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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Just as a reminder, this is the picture that was the inspiration for the dress (<a href="http://www.abaete.com/base.html">Abaete</a> top), and next to it is the <a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/01/so-here-it-comes-new-challenge-and-free.html">pattern</a> I used. For those of you who might have stopped by here the first time, this pattern (<a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/01/so-here-it-comes-new-challenge-and-free.html">free download</a>) is my basic basic block for an easy fitting top, which I used to make <a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/01/challenge-9-ulla-top-finished.html">Ulla</a>, <a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/02/challenge-10-editt-finished.html">Editt</a> and <a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/02/challenge-11-marina-top-finished.html">Marina</a> tops in previous challenges.</div>
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<a href="http://media-cdn.pinterest.com/upload/220113500507665478_uh2riUkE_c.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://media-cdn.pinterest.com/upload/220113500507665478_uh2riUkE_c.jpg" width="213" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifNiHptYIMfjTAIUVSehrxiFmrKPnD6vfZrkeyKIOhDPPc-Jq8l-NeStqCAO91mbncA8-qbNrU5W3PdgDH-FEWXpMY3FaurDAXX3thN1pIm602O8y6fzP4ijNclTnS7Ccd0pLrw2rJZO1J/s1600/basic+A+line+block+technical+drawing.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifNiHptYIMfjTAIUVSehrxiFmrKPnD6vfZrkeyKIOhDPPc-Jq8l-NeStqCAO91mbncA8-qbNrU5W3PdgDH-FEWXpMY3FaurDAXX3thN1pIm602O8y6fzP4ijNclTnS7Ccd0pLrw2rJZO1J/s320/basic+A+line+block+technical+drawing.png" width="308" /></a></div>
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For the dress I used a cotton I bought long ago downtown LA. I remember that the roll said it was cotton but the guy was telling me that it had to have some silk in it. I thought he was just trying to sell it (shopping downtown is an experience), but it did feel very silky. It is very light (would that be lawn?) and thin and I wish I had more of it. When I first ironed it, it started sticking. So it is probably not 100% cotton, but it did not iron like poly. So could it have some silk in it? Don't know much about silk, and except for one abandoned project, have never worked with it.</div>
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(It was windy today when I took the pictures)</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFerKBhwHeLOTOnAaV98PBto-sOfU8dI2vLNUTV1TF7hy2idNlePgRxUhGDTGBLSDyxW85J7Ppzb7XicsvV15p1RfKPcg-Aqxo2r-d6slYJrJmYW1gCUTGAoXCrQ89FC-PJ-m8k2ncrPyD/s1600/IMG_8352.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFerKBhwHeLOTOnAaV98PBto-sOfU8dI2vLNUTV1TF7hy2idNlePgRxUhGDTGBLSDyxW85J7Ppzb7XicsvV15p1RfKPcg-Aqxo2r-d6slYJrJmYW1gCUTGAoXCrQ89FC-PJ-m8k2ncrPyD/s320/IMG_8352.JPG" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0sV7jZqNkUod0oKGCuU72xBf0txbzo_8hhqKUcpEIYsBKxgR9t_sB9_5rgfRbaH8Hp1fvkfHwe4jXKF6LvU_8fMhgesrQVq8omdCr64jvKx-VXk0XOydQVqbVSlvP8F8tj8UoKog8pU3A/s1600/IMG_8356.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0sV7jZqNkUod0oKGCuU72xBf0txbzo_8hhqKUcpEIYsBKxgR9t_sB9_5rgfRbaH8Hp1fvkfHwe4jXKF6LvU_8fMhgesrQVq8omdCr64jvKx-VXk0XOydQVqbVSlvP8F8tj8UoKog8pU3A/s320/IMG_8356.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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Instead of hemming the flounces, I serged them. I thought a hem would just make them bulky on the edge and I did not want it. I finished the neck, arm and back with bias tape made of the same fabric (I really like doing that). The neck is done with one piece, and then the straps, under arm and the back are another piece. I like doing straps like that too..</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdiVEQ3N0L5gLp6iuo75c9MP5k_og45-bRGrvZeX6NTDrEP6s5KW62cX7sZ-rFSHhTRztNVVLkPIhoSTNyQaHj0Vj_Jn3uVgbxy-Gt0MbF1ZWK1Fx4qUo7KWguONOAkOeSppTHJZwRhvMz/s1600/IMG_8360.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdiVEQ3N0L5gLp6iuo75c9MP5k_og45-bRGrvZeX6NTDrEP6s5KW62cX7sZ-rFSHhTRztNVVLkPIhoSTNyQaHj0Vj_Jn3uVgbxy-Gt0MbF1ZWK1Fx4qUo7KWguONOAkOeSppTHJZwRhvMz/s320/IMG_8360.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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In the back - because of the ease and the fact that it's a pull-over dress, I put some elastic under the bias tape, to keep it next to the body. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw3sTpdyajC4GOw6Mz4giOldj7Yrjt_6GbtsQx5-3g98p-duH1XtuiUJN91BPEPfe5ANdes8jRZf_NVH6QhNtDr5-FhgHWTtu2v7Fql-m02X5hSSsZ32CGtyX_cag8n87AC5gMNB5XfbV_/s1600/IMG_8358.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw3sTpdyajC4GOw6Mz4giOldj7Yrjt_6GbtsQx5-3g98p-duH1XtuiUJN91BPEPfe5ANdes8jRZf_NVH6QhNtDr5-FhgHWTtu2v7Fql-m02X5hSSsZ32CGtyX_cag8n87AC5gMNB5XfbV_/s320/IMG_8358.JPG" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVCP8bwp-W8pqhe10uklfmBi3Yfh8rG2QlU_Pq34Fa9NCNG8N2yOGTYAk5lPZMahT7d3ng8ks8ndJnyyS0L8lJpNQFH_ny-WEQz3khE9AFX-w879umKx9SqBegnzWREpUabp-kITuIEI6N/s1600/IMG_8357.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVCP8bwp-W8pqhe10uklfmBi3Yfh8rG2QlU_Pq34Fa9NCNG8N2yOGTYAk5lPZMahT7d3ng8ks8ndJnyyS0L8lJpNQFH_ny-WEQz3khE9AFX-w879umKx9SqBegnzWREpUabp-kITuIEI6N/s320/IMG_8357.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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I really like how it turned out, and I think it would be a nice dress/tunic even without the flounces. Just a little slip. I might make another one...<br />
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Some techniques you might find useful:</div>
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<a href="http://www.coletterie.com/tutorials-tips-tricks/facing-or-detail-bias-binding" style="color: #dd5c2a; text-decoration: none;">Facing or Detail: Bias Binding</a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; line-height: 18px;">Previous Challenge 12 posts:</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; line-height: 18px;"><br /></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; line-height: 18px;"><a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/02/challenge-12-blomma-dress-intro-and.html" style="color: #dd5c2a; text-decoration: none;">Challenge 12:: Blomma dress:: intro and drafting</a></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; line-height: 18px;"><br /></span><br />
<a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/03/challenge-12-blomma-dress-muslin.html">Challenge 12:: Blomma dress:: muslin</a><br />
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<br />Ninahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17022469545932314525noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3359228661163807720.post-80347877515984341102012-03-01T10:17:00.001-08:002012-03-07T14:15:37.053-08:00Challenge 12:: Blomma dress:: muslin<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
This was really easy to cut and I think this will be a relatively easy dress to make. Well, there will be some bias tape making... a lot of it, for the straps. But otherwise, easy peasy.</div>
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I knew that the back would be too wide - it is made from a pattern that has ease, after all. So I will simply put some elastic into the back, probably under the bias tape. In the pic below, I pinned the dress on the form to see how it would look. Fine.</div>
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As this is a dress without closures of any kind, and you need to be able to pull it over your head, there needs to be ease. This could also be made without ease, but then you would need a side zipper. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_P9P_RmOmCPF1d4z8RnODzgxjlyBzRgSF75gHC51FiJocxumjN04-w3NW88irqlYaIAAWolqee3Bezf3DAhdvodMwrZ8mdpMbeVJ_pdnn3kZOqHVpqqCn0tdVn20Mpz6vNnm6GN4W0hqj/s1600/IMG_8345.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_P9P_RmOmCPF1d4z8RnODzgxjlyBzRgSF75gHC51FiJocxumjN04-w3NW88irqlYaIAAWolqee3Bezf3DAhdvodMwrZ8mdpMbeVJ_pdnn3kZOqHVpqqCn0tdVn20Mpz6vNnm6GN4W0hqj/s320/IMG_8345.JPG" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdBFmwhtkAAopC3jhwnml0YmXvEH5RRVpdARP9o3-f3BIW9GQDpFYzwtTkSNsR88UzCwbIXJexcOHa8x3RNeP2xm5wMoCzoRJHusz7Fm7jqKuScub2xvu0L2XH7XjWT8nA1Ss9q5AAZ4PQ/s1600/IMG_8348.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdBFmwhtkAAopC3jhwnml0YmXvEH5RRVpdARP9o3-f3BIW9GQDpFYzwtTkSNsR88UzCwbIXJexcOHa8x3RNeP2xm5wMoCzoRJHusz7Fm7jqKuScub2xvu0L2XH7XjWT8nA1Ss9q5AAZ4PQ/s320/IMG_8348.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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I didn't have to make any changes - I was worried whether it would be too boxy but I actually like the shape. I will make one slight change... with the top "ruffle" (please help me, is there another name for it?) - I will make it even thinner on the left side (see pic below) so that the bottom one is more visible. RIght now you can barely see it.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1NKN5CBiWzRZF6uExjr0Ao1IqVL3vUPN8oGd8c1GTJUHrg4S-6bE4vM_Oil4UTlFBLQ66QY7yVjb2mQP0vT4TaiU903EPJfDPBoQFIzD8AKPMscfAWUiEJqAL0rgv7KDAZvo0B8JrspRI/s1600/IMG_8346.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1NKN5CBiWzRZF6uExjr0Ao1IqVL3vUPN8oGd8c1GTJUHrg4S-6bE4vM_Oil4UTlFBLQ66QY7yVjb2mQP0vT4TaiU903EPJfDPBoQFIzD8AKPMscfAWUiEJqAL0rgv7KDAZvo0B8JrspRI/s320/IMG_8346.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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The "ruffles" are a bit different than the <a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/02/challenge-12-blomma-dress-intro-and.html">inspiration picture</a>. They are a bit more "ruffly" - but that works with this type of a dress, me thinks - but also a bit shorter. So I couldn't really do tree layers, as I planned. The reason they cannot be longer is that this dress has darts and some waist shaping, so longer ruffles would not look so good. Neither would shorter. So, two layers it is.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAdv4URAXSRzoxVv2RFk78gAJJN0o55b0TObOJgk3X9Xl-gE2D5C033r4TNYxixBWr0-D8zOUMINjdw6olqcLzGB8k3alO4Bm_RJiVfXRhpYz9YSA8Jg9xpGW4dDoZkNsxGpL4ymxO0MHo/s1600/IMG_8347.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAdv4URAXSRzoxVv2RFk78gAJJN0o55b0TObOJgk3X9Xl-gE2D5C033r4TNYxixBWr0-D8zOUMINjdw6olqcLzGB8k3alO4Bm_RJiVfXRhpYz9YSA8Jg9xpGW4dDoZkNsxGpL4ymxO0MHo/s320/IMG_8347.JPG" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUwbOOUE7bbBedXZmcT35oGBsReobw2RDG2DJf42b06owlvkFByiJ7N7ht0TxTWjLEwuP4pigTCIaAXVfniV1Id9jOwOaONN_rU9GT-9KLzRgjCpY-qSAx5_Gg_TX1KYvu5iBEb-NYYkbR/s1600/IMG_8349.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUwbOOUE7bbBedXZmcT35oGBsReobw2RDG2DJf42b06owlvkFByiJ7N7ht0TxTWjLEwuP4pigTCIaAXVfniV1Id9jOwOaONN_rU9GT-9KLzRgjCpY-qSAx5_Gg_TX1KYvu5iBEb-NYYkbR/s320/IMG_8349.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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Ok, now lets <a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/03/challenge-12-blomma-dress-finished.html">finish it up</a>.<br />
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Previous Challenge 12 posts:<br />
<a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/02/challenge-12-blomma-dress-intro-and.html">Challenge 12:: Blomma dress:: intro and drafting</a><br />
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<br />Ninahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17022469545932314525noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3359228661163807720.post-29196153783666667682012-02-25T15:35:00.001-08:002012-03-01T10:19:04.103-08:00Challenge 12:: Blomma dress:: intro and drafting<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Keeping with the sleeveless theme... this challenge will be a dress. As with the last three challenges, this one will be made using the <a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/01/so-here-it-comes-new-challenge-and-free.html">Basic Block 1 free pattern</a>. </div>
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So what is Blomma dress. This top is the inspiration: </div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://media-cdn.pinterest.com/upload/220113500507665478_uh2riUkE_c.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://media-cdn.pinterest.com/upload/220113500507665478_uh2riUkE_c.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.abaete.com/base.html">Abaete</a></td></tr>
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I don't have a sketch right now, so just imagine this top as long as her skirt (short dress) and then add straps. Of course, this could be made into either a long dress or simply a top.</div>
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So let's start. First, copy the basic block front on a separate piece of paper. Make sure you mark the waistline. Measure 7 cm down the midline and then 5 cm down from that point (notice I marked 6 cm on the pic below - I did originally, but then I changed it later to 5 when). So, the neck opening will be 12 cm deep.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj17LINB5ysCAOK0Pqh-1Mw3D6dIwN_DdYMzNa43FDopwPKKoIoviTwSeg7rmBMNgWpQefzKHQ0D5WiEHS0U0PSSW-FGnPQHC7hUs7SjxnPJJ5glWLKuRDjeJMZL2o5mLgR7k74drmrQFb/s1600/IMG_8308.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj17LINB5ysCAOK0Pqh-1Mw3D6dIwN_DdYMzNa43FDopwPKKoIoviTwSeg7rmBMNgWpQefzKHQ0D5WiEHS0U0PSSW-FGnPQHC7hUs7SjxnPJJ5glWLKuRDjeJMZL2o5mLgR7k74drmrQFb/s400/IMG_8308.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Now, measure 12 cm from the first point (7 cm down on the midline) horizontally towards the arm opening. That will be the point where the straps will attach. Now reshape the neck and the arm opening to that point.<br />
We are going to leave the bust dart where it is this time.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYSPqhYGNVYdmG39sFAUrSe7StFdZLqiBD1wtS6FF7bqhzwFsXZbWfnnQ4_cZUPxfBTRhif2i2smaOWMOSlpzDczsWKMyNkibHgrnMOfaVM9bTTP6l7hExX31CPNtDRDbTN1pVDfmZ_EfQ/s1600/IMG_8310.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYSPqhYGNVYdmG39sFAUrSe7StFdZLqiBD1wtS6FF7bqhzwFsXZbWfnnQ4_cZUPxfBTRhif2i2smaOWMOSlpzDczsWKMyNkibHgrnMOfaVM9bTTP6l7hExX31CPNtDRDbTN1pVDfmZ_EfQ/s400/IMG_8310.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Find the hipline (usually about 21 cm from the waistline or measure).<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_cTSncEbPQ0m6PeUYMV_e1Z-AZDfKfAlByRZmGL6iDoS1siI3mXARIQHy7gMzoXybkic0qRhapfgj9e5XP01nGjkCWZQHroEUDNuQ4INT7SyhnqE6dPXXDDW52ML_Ui7DhOytgloor3V7/s1600/IMG_8311.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_cTSncEbPQ0m6PeUYMV_e1Z-AZDfKfAlByRZmGL6iDoS1siI3mXARIQHy7gMzoXybkic0qRhapfgj9e5XP01nGjkCWZQHroEUDNuQ4INT7SyhnqE6dPXXDDW52ML_Ui7DhOytgloor3V7/s400/IMG_8311.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Since this is a dress, we need to make sure there is enough ease around the hip. If you have copied and extended the midline and side seam line to the hip line, measure the width at the hipline. It should measure at least (hip)/4 + 3cm, where 'hip' is your hip measurement. In my case, I am doing this for size 38 (Burda size) which measures 94 cm around the hip. So with ease, the hipline should be 26.5 cm. Of course, you can add more ease if you wish. I was 0.5 cm short, so I redrew the sideseam.</div>
I added 30 cm more from the hipline to the hem. Again, make it as long as you wish. Mine will be 51 cm from the waist<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKhzKfQJ68wBtpNT63fhmiVs3oI7WL7SaG3-Mxtjj8z_xGowKykTb-3kIt-FKm0XWCUY8mvsfwXjk5LA0q9rwW5gxEKJm7gPAX5I4z5-pyKgZBUjRnf6pn0cCQrll4iJhsP50dSdR3wI03/s1600/IMG_8312.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKhzKfQJ68wBtpNT63fhmiVs3oI7WL7SaG3-Mxtjj8z_xGowKykTb-3kIt-FKm0XWCUY8mvsfwXjk5LA0q9rwW5gxEKJm7gPAX5I4z5-pyKgZBUjRnf6pn0cCQrll4iJhsP50dSdR3wI03/s400/IMG_8312.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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The side seam and the hem should meet at 90 deg angle. So, to reshape this part, draw a line straight down from the waist/sideseam to the hem. Then draw a line perpendicular to the sideseam towards the hem. Smooth the hem curve. (see pic below)</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8tGMqktpzOjI5cuFB57j_vXfEq3hQme8xWGU7cOvkykx8iL5HeX7E1A-8k6hBZwzr6GleUWUNvzaslBqxjyw2ZfUe6V9VAxvrqbX5X8yX4MnuIFP5i_wxVtYFdPUBFnnksjYRUNGrvEL4/s1600/IMG_8314.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8tGMqktpzOjI5cuFB57j_vXfEq3hQme8xWGU7cOvkykx8iL5HeX7E1A-8k6hBZwzr6GleUWUNvzaslBqxjyw2ZfUe6V9VAxvrqbX5X8yX4MnuIFP5i_wxVtYFdPUBFnnksjYRUNGrvEL4/s400/IMG_8314.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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The front is finished. For the back, I copied the back right next to the front piece, such that the waistlines matched.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq1t8jwcU9qphPkpbLMFbCVgWXozugvWAvJmPWG2fZQ9K5qpiPtViGjUh-iniQACAt0o_ThzZ_L5_rdb4o_ldAD44_L2x-_qM2rxY4XBVH8mvsg3A-SogcwBGywuE_qFO28AHNi8qAW_5P/s1600/IMG_8315.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq1t8jwcU9qphPkpbLMFbCVgWXozugvWAvJmPWG2fZQ9K5qpiPtViGjUh-iniQACAt0o_ThzZ_L5_rdb4o_ldAD44_L2x-_qM2rxY4XBVH8mvsg3A-SogcwBGywuE_qFO28AHNi8qAW_5P/s400/IMG_8315.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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There is not much to the back. It is simply a straight line across from the back arm opening. I curved it slightly so that at the midline, it is about 1 cm below the horizontal line.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpCqJcAx1adpMtzhI_5QjVLzZPrCIbuJwKjolvhoeLUrf33cM1YqTz5_HNC5wyZgjhWEQDrfUaDcXodsCdmDfsei1Of9uBDi9fFwFRZPc4LBgibNrLqq2G7moFS-ofk3c8iYpdBjaBH0rC/s1600/IMG_8316.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpCqJcAx1adpMtzhI_5QjVLzZPrCIbuJwKjolvhoeLUrf33cM1YqTz5_HNC5wyZgjhWEQDrfUaDcXodsCdmDfsei1Of9uBDi9fFwFRZPc4LBgibNrLqq2G7moFS-ofk3c8iYpdBjaBH0rC/s400/IMG_8316.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Draw the waistline and hipline as for the front (hipline is 21 cm below the waistline) and check the ease around the hips. The width at the hipline should be (hip)/4 + 1 cm, where 'hip' is your measurement around the hips. Again, for size 38, this comes out to be 24.5 cm. Again, I was about 0.5 cm short so I had to redraw the sideseam.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHo1ClIW3cVH8Gei-4cgY2kFL0ysj2EkTeBd5PiF7hBAoeYEz1CU6JZuj8VoE0uhSHUcdsA1810n5c8WBrxwhRbi0osyc0vIKx9mAQmomwyNyjz_UG6DarPz_vdhJab5zPlIsP3SvMtyKu/s1600/IMG_8317.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHo1ClIW3cVH8Gei-4cgY2kFL0ysj2EkTeBd5PiF7hBAoeYEz1CU6JZuj8VoE0uhSHUcdsA1810n5c8WBrxwhRbi0osyc0vIKx9mAQmomwyNyjz_UG6DarPz_vdhJab5zPlIsP3SvMtyKu/s400/IMG_8317.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Finally fix the hem/sideseam point as for the front. See the pic below.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaF7oV4EptRJ0aVPelKrYedaUAqFcz7oYYW8cbauAsrM2Q6-ilv5SHYhKsjfHdKH_rfD0W0IPOVeskScj3GISmDkR0xwV4xs1MKA2KE5thXTE9THXjhJdSUw8BFy_ht9HgwG4CryMlBeuJ/s1600/IMG_8318.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaF7oV4EptRJ0aVPelKrYedaUAqFcz7oYYW8cbauAsrM2Q6-ilv5SHYhKsjfHdKH_rfD0W0IPOVeskScj3GISmDkR0xwV4xs1MKA2KE5thXTE9THXjhJdSUw8BFy_ht9HgwG4CryMlBeuJ/s400/IMG_8318.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Front and back finished. Now onto the front/back ruffles - I am not sure what they are called, so I will go with ruffles. They are not really ruffles, not in the sense that you take a long strip of fabric and then you gather all around the hem or a seam or wherever... (like the bottom of a skirt). I do not want these "ruffles" to be very "ruffly" (oh gosh, this is getting bad), I want them to be flowy (again, not a word, at least not according to the spellchecker) and just a bit wider that the top part of the dress. So I am going to copy the top part of the dress and then add some volume to it... Maybe the pictures will be clearer...<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhk-nQf-8jSrw-e1PD8Hao6jPfnpHIBL2UMkmQ7Q8rTl2XgkFWIX4mmMw71Hug2-yNeP-j4-gxSjtAa5SiX7arsjrYeUdo-Vlu_E_mAa1XQc4ZVpbRxpiD9_rC-glGdD1CX3YF7b35f4kzm/s1600/IMG_8319.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhk-nQf-8jSrw-e1PD8Hao6jPfnpHIBL2UMkmQ7Q8rTl2XgkFWIX4mmMw71Hug2-yNeP-j4-gxSjtAa5SiX7arsjrYeUdo-Vlu_E_mAa1XQc4ZVpbRxpiD9_rC-glGdD1CX3YF7b35f4kzm/s400/IMG_8319.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Above, you can see I copied the top of the front pattern to get the full width of the front, because the pieces I am adding will not be symmetric. Then I drew in what I thought these pieces should look like. Below you can see the two lines going across the pattern. I am going with two additional pieces (the inspiration photo has three). Also I am only going with one back piece. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHGXhWieiKPAiFfioxQqMHSfJde3zdT91YaWyEnGZq-q4UdHG85JAvlln_hDE7gsdj0_z5qJweT9_vZPoCEAxnsT6qJpBqyRJA6FUn2ZF73BSP34WZlHe7kXc3r0ifxDZrVY4YKoFyQYEC/s1600/IMG_8320.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHGXhWieiKPAiFfioxQqMHSfJde3zdT91YaWyEnGZq-q4UdHG85JAvlln_hDE7gsdj0_z5qJweT9_vZPoCEAxnsT6qJpBqyRJA6FUn2ZF73BSP34WZlHe7kXc3r0ifxDZrVY4YKoFyQYEC/s400/IMG_8320.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Then I copied over the pattern and here I the two "ruffles" for the front. You can see that they are not symmetrical. The top (#1) is wider on the left, and the bottom one is wider on the right.</div>
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I also have to do the ruffle piece on the back, so I did the same with the back pattern piece. I just had to make sure that the back piece will match up with the wider sides of the front parts at the sideseam.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiWkzlYS5Xp7QPI2wV4GWgUQbOQLOKFSoakAxSSp4KHrcC0K85F-EyISiljx2nawGflt4CRiH8DbWdEx2tFhMB8rDi4ooqoocQmy_maxrKw2DCPaPeynd6I8lOfDLt3glm4RA0bmdtaiAY/s1600/IMG_8325.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiWkzlYS5Xp7QPI2wV4GWgUQbOQLOKFSoakAxSSp4KHrcC0K85F-EyISiljx2nawGflt4CRiH8DbWdEx2tFhMB8rDi4ooqoocQmy_maxrKw2DCPaPeynd6I8lOfDLt3glm4RA0bmdtaiAY/s400/IMG_8325.JPG" width="337" /></a></div>
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Now, to add volume... I tried to divide each of these "ruffles" into equal parts, so I drew lines approximately 2 in apart</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijLj9zT6F2lT0jk07wSHyjXaWcEfFqOTzlj-63Gg4ygsWw-Xu-D0Z_bYtKAaXZrRHK5ZuuZJegEoOTl20DCleq5iEyN3yV4r-TpL2WV9GNh0GI3OZDmprE1o-DhffLXNK2wENtVN0MVzVq/s1600/IMG_8327.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijLj9zT6F2lT0jk07wSHyjXaWcEfFqOTzlj-63Gg4ygsWw-Xu-D0Z_bYtKAaXZrRHK5ZuuZJegEoOTl20DCleq5iEyN3yV4r-TpL2WV9GNh0GI3OZDmprE1o-DhffLXNK2wENtVN0MVzVq/s400/IMG_8327.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Then I cut along those lines from the "hem" up to the neck/arm seam but not through. You leave just a bit so that the pieces are still connected. Then you pull those pieces apart the amount you wish (see below). The more you pull them apart the more "ruffly" the piece will be. I separated about 2 cm (measured at the hem) at each piece. Repeat for each piece.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg49uaOcizjUW53BY7ZtXLxF5UweiEtV1LNHxzvx2nOQHzA5w2puObgSBn0VIb-I3BAoTf6QpnTO9B-kyeoMH8YbDrAE3TDVWGZmBszk25BD6noy1fQ-Q7VgHfthCxhLKtQ0V8vUHqwnXBf/s1600/IMG_8329.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg49uaOcizjUW53BY7ZtXLxF5UweiEtV1LNHxzvx2nOQHzA5w2puObgSBn0VIb-I3BAoTf6QpnTO9B-kyeoMH8YbDrAE3TDVWGZmBszk25BD6noy1fQ-Q7VgHfthCxhLKtQ0V8vUHqwnXBf/s400/IMG_8329.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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And this is what the final patterns looks like (the only other thing you will need are the straps):</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC1jFmMnV8CKmhFLwQgEXrYVUNYdJ4Cd_hf8os9XNuynzlPAsffkW1r1uheWkY2A-D-NjnpQIb0LDL0ULCcPKXHbDKLK6O6hMCiHmzXXOg6bK-wNljbQhTVylomudlbrFtjh7xf0_pnNzO/s1600/IMG_8330.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC1jFmMnV8CKmhFLwQgEXrYVUNYdJ4Cd_hf8os9XNuynzlPAsffkW1r1uheWkY2A-D-NjnpQIb0LDL0ULCcPKXHbDKLK6O6hMCiHmzXXOg6bK-wNljbQhTVylomudlbrFtjh7xf0_pnNzO/s320/IMG_8330.JPG" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-O8bPZOYaLEFTaD265-rCojB3aPkEP4jf_9bdjlXI0KzF7SaJUhfRvjsV0aVCdKd8xiL9_boTcYTrs0qhufhqKrKHUXy5uHrYoVzh-5K91FsC3PRsIXlRUytnWDCaSGxDd4AJt0nuim_K/s1600/IMG_8331.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-O8bPZOYaLEFTaD265-rCojB3aPkEP4jf_9bdjlXI0KzF7SaJUhfRvjsV0aVCdKd8xiL9_boTcYTrs0qhufhqKrKHUXy5uHrYoVzh-5K91FsC3PRsIXlRUytnWDCaSGxDd4AJt0nuim_K/s320/IMG_8331.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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Just to give you an idea of what I am going for, I pinned the pattern pieces on the dress form. Maybe a little too "ruffly"? We'll see...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRlimbbuaQ63eCPRUyMkirSqI25tJShwcjKnIWQ6z3Wx5BYW1wnSIA_WpFdypes0aQ3aau79qZ1fCnKOAo7OQiHVmROzp5Ti_HaQFsNFzmxFe4A_nCjM59XBYuk38ZUhnyTBL4ZlB7TR4J/s1600/IMG_8332.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRlimbbuaQ63eCPRUyMkirSqI25tJShwcjKnIWQ6z3Wx5BYW1wnSIA_WpFdypes0aQ3aau79qZ1fCnKOAo7OQiHVmROzp5Ti_HaQFsNFzmxFe4A_nCjM59XBYuk38ZUhnyTBL4ZlB7TR4J/s320/IMG_8332.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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Sorry about the poor photo quality. I was loosing the light, and the laps were making awful shadows...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizYTETjkqYuAmgkRp8EQGjc0bkrGH1qTzJS0N6YytwgXJ4PmsWZEhh7ow8EMws413_wl-W0D3bCMl2hlv6lvq6haGouZP8VocSiJfjH9gdkX2paCeAnpOD3bRRe7FGsC8rWCqiFDB4lJvI/s1600/IMG_8333.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizYTETjkqYuAmgkRp8EQGjc0bkrGH1qTzJS0N6YytwgXJ4PmsWZEhh7ow8EMws413_wl-W0D3bCMl2hlv6lvq6haGouZP8VocSiJfjH9gdkX2paCeAnpOD3bRRe7FGsC8rWCqiFDB4lJvI/s320/IMG_8333.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Next... do I have to even say it? The <a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/03/challenge-12-blomma-dress-muslin.html">muslin</a>...</div>
<br />Ninahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17022469545932314525noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3359228661163807720.post-13471709754217523942012-02-18T22:15:00.000-08:002012-02-18T22:15:01.900-08:00Challenge 11:: Marina top:: finished<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Marina. </div>
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I don't know whether it was the lighting, or just the fact that this dark blue makes a big contrast against the white background, but this was hard to photograph. And I am no expert. This is the first time I had to modify the pictures a bit. Just a bit.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisZRQPA5iSFwqAPMiw090r1OGBAq_WApNMqu_AIGsFcb98wZaLvo4ONi24kNNfVYJFag3qszZGXFBfy4pcKx5jRl4rLLft3jnvG7hh2294eHifsrG0IWbloyQHivuf6Q4vqosWV7QeW1V2/s1600/technical+drawing+3.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisZRQPA5iSFwqAPMiw090r1OGBAq_WApNMqu_AIGsFcb98wZaLvo4ONi24kNNfVYJFag3qszZGXFBfy4pcKx5jRl4rLLft3jnvG7hh2294eHifsrG0IWbloyQHivuf6Q4vqosWV7QeW1V2/s200/technical+drawing+3.png" width="154" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYall6zhOJfvVgDnEXlhh321hu2A4Wo79tKr3AM4n7mqsgndGmX7X-tT_48SpIPOMch5sxxO9PhduVDjqLdiKiA7kZSTlxvlWEfqitwwgtt3FZTbwjs__ZFU8yS5CKvJnWLNAgRhzO6q-z/s1600/IMG_8282.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYall6zhOJfvVgDnEXlhh321hu2A4Wo79tKr3AM4n7mqsgndGmX7X-tT_48SpIPOMch5sxxO9PhduVDjqLdiKiA7kZSTlxvlWEfqitwwgtt3FZTbwjs__ZFU8yS5CKvJnWLNAgRhzO6q-z/s200/IMG_8282.JPG" width="150" /></a></div>
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I used a piece of fabric from my stash. I am still keeping with the promise (you know the one I would not buy anything until I absolutely have to. The definition of "absolutely" is a little... vague...)</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdf5b5Ka7j19b1phBXwyn_zA0cUCyc9hq6kELPRnIqIkqieAI3KVLWfD_uQQC6giFCBq4qd23F6VMuw3IMzFpFoiNM5JD9se2UiWyIGESo-iB39P0sSVJpe5CNGfQOrbO2gmkT-m8f5sfJ/s1600/IMG_8283.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdf5b5Ka7j19b1phBXwyn_zA0cUCyc9hq6kELPRnIqIkqieAI3KVLWfD_uQQC6giFCBq4qd23F6VMuw3IMzFpFoiNM5JD9se2UiWyIGESo-iB39P0sSVJpe5CNGfQOrbO2gmkT-m8f5sfJ/s320/IMG_8283.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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I really like this fabric. It feels silky; it is on the thicker side though - you could easily make a skirt out of it. Or a dress. Not sheer at all. I don't think it's silk though, probably some made-made fabric. But it really feels good. It is not slippery and I did not have any problem sewing it. (I had this nightmarish experience recently with pure silk. My machine just would not sew through it. I could not figure out why. I changed needles, tension, thread. Nothing. I ended up serging anything I could. Everything else I sewed by hand.)</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg6MAfVrY-eVWqfYzJO44qAxL5aib0EccX-u37kG0QatgzCXIIJrQQd5VmkjW89JXcwnZD3m_ugDC9x_1LHVRXma37XBek8CRkZ_f83xr9takrlQeyDDDA2OzdpioXWpQ6NZ9F-4drq17B/s1600/IMG_8284.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg6MAfVrY-eVWqfYzJO44qAxL5aib0EccX-u37kG0QatgzCXIIJrQQd5VmkjW89JXcwnZD3m_ugDC9x_1LHVRXma37XBek8CRkZ_f83xr9takrlQeyDDDA2OzdpioXWpQ6NZ9F-4drq17B/s320/IMG_8284.JPG" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO7YOtG8DdkVnPXfo1yTv66jFLRIdWPRoBC5YPvzOPqRTp-kFHvjf_CnSNbzTMpPjoln1ZSDd5rwTtWHBhL5S4hyKBb4l5Y5pe5ZttNE8XcrOwq2F9Y0FWGwEPXaGzEs036fwjxuRSKXmU/s1600/IMG_8286.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO7YOtG8DdkVnPXfo1yTv66jFLRIdWPRoBC5YPvzOPqRTp-kFHvjf_CnSNbzTMpPjoln1ZSDd5rwTtWHBhL5S4hyKBb4l5Y5pe5ZttNE8XcrOwq2F9Y0FWGwEPXaGzEs036fwjxuRSKXmU/s320/IMG_8286.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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The fabric is dark blue with some leaf (?) pattern. It ironed perfectly, and does not wrinkle much. I barely had enough for this top (I had to cut the back from two pieces, so I ended up with a back seam, and the bow collar ended up not as wide as I planned). </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisGgC5Ebi0Y-YKcgcnLHU6az6rJf5CpHDMa8e5xK1lBDAlRoVVghK5AHQ3-AAQJsikgv8vvUIma8oXZRVeN45xBqNq2fCq4LJkXQyE0hCw4aSJ6jS9lCMiI0k-b4nXY60o0T_j6W7e3l4B/s1600/IMG_8287.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisGgC5Ebi0Y-YKcgcnLHU6az6rJf5CpHDMa8e5xK1lBDAlRoVVghK5AHQ3-AAQJsikgv8vvUIma8oXZRVeN45xBqNq2fCq4LJkXQyE0hCw4aSJ6jS9lCMiI0k-b4nXY60o0T_j6W7e3l4B/s320/IMG_8287.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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The reason I had so little of the fabric is that actually I have used it before. For a top I really liked. Then I washed it. I know, I should have washed the fabric before, which I usually do with my cottons and linens. But this time I wasn't sure if I should wash this. And then I did - after! sewing it. And it shrank so much, and it completely changed the feel, I had to toss it. So I know for sure this is dry clean only.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbGgBWhKx8J_XNLRFWA0rm7HU4WXtxfxrjwzcLtlgaTV9EjlIhYDudG78ZHZiElhRriIadqGjhziGAtQ-0yaHgmGRl13n-59cXaJ5W1lM7REijOx4dNR_RRDptZI1FB_EaI9c4L1E8yzPd/s1600/IMG_8285.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbGgBWhKx8J_XNLRFWA0rm7HU4WXtxfxrjwzcLtlgaTV9EjlIhYDudG78ZHZiElhRriIadqGjhziGAtQ-0yaHgmGRl13n-59cXaJ5W1lM7REijOx4dNR_RRDptZI1FB_EaI9c4L1E8yzPd/s320/IMG_8285.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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As you may have noticed, I do not have a pattern piece for the bow collar. It is simply a straight piece of fabric - I think I cut it about 12 cm wide and as long as the width of the fabric. You can also cut it on a bias, but I did not have enough fabric for that.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8T0_Ns4eAT5aXEB8GMkPyNZQKdwI3TdTkHfKDvziNwmvuToWKnN2TTNmYfCr-7mj9MMBfWYfF9yjuFdFqBHv01A-HnUTmpo9_QgtXjQypAufXW5uOWmC9jqBxALPLXhIeA9_cs4yZC58_/s1600/IMG_8288.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8T0_Ns4eAT5aXEB8GMkPyNZQKdwI3TdTkHfKDvziNwmvuToWKnN2TTNmYfCr-7mj9MMBfWYfF9yjuFdFqBHv01A-HnUTmpo9_QgtXjQypAufXW5uOWmC9jqBxALPLXhIeA9_cs4yZC58_/s320/IMG_8288.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Since there is no buttons in the front I could not really sew the bow all the way down to the bottom of the V neck ( Also, it would not tie nicely). So I sewed it down about half way from the shoulder. You could wear it tied or not. If there is an interest I will write up a little tutorial to show how you sew this.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLD1AZ87bsx8Ox4Ao9fhP6jw7wpWbD73rVAhL_dkKPsYn3qtRrY1BAmNQqpCPbxWSrRaupKXKEhckfrUJzuuiLr7Yqe6najfVdjGbLd9OoRQhFmYNyGajz2B1aI_e8IxMkdh7Syl1LzVvG/s1600/IMG_8289.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLD1AZ87bsx8Ox4Ao9fhP6jw7wpWbD73rVAhL_dkKPsYn3qtRrY1BAmNQqpCPbxWSrRaupKXKEhckfrUJzuuiLr7Yqe6najfVdjGbLd9OoRQhFmYNyGajz2B1aI_e8IxMkdh7Syl1LzVvG/s320/IMG_8289.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Overall I like it. The arm openings are a bit deeper, so if I make this one again I will redraw them without the 2cm drop down the side seam. The top has a lot of ease but I like that with this design. </div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span">Some techniques you might find useful:</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><a href="http://www.coletterie.com/tutorials-tips-tricks/facing-or-detail-bias-binding" style="color: #dd5c2a; text-decoration: none;">Facing or Detail: Bias Binding</a></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"> </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/how-to-sew-v-necklines-with-facings/">How to sew V necklines with facings</a></span></div>
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Previous Challenge 11 posts:</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/02/challenge-11-marina-top-intro.html" style="color: #dd5c2a; text-decoration: none;">Challenge 11:: Marina top:: intro</a></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/02/challenge-11-marina-top-drafting.html">Challenge 11:: Marina top:: drafting</a> </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/02/challenge-11-marina-top-muslin.html">Challenge 11:: Marina top:: muslin</a></span></div>
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<br />Ninahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17022469545932314525noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3359228661163807720.post-23064407962073255302012-02-14T12:41:00.000-08:002012-02-14T12:41:32.505-08:00Challenge 11:: Marina top:: muslin<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Here it is (looks a little like a nurse's top, but that's just the fabric). Pretty much as expected. No surprises, which is good.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisyrEPCeAyYfO4qPeWbpElF81Z4D_HR71v0Ip4JSn4VL8-BWN17XVx9vfDEI4VDsKP8AL67JajMvDsE6pRtIluVM6AH_N4e_f-mjcRdrUsp3DvOmIaIYvZDDcrlRv2-_UGq0mCeEq5yFRK/s1600/IMG_8273.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisyrEPCeAyYfO4qPeWbpElF81Z4D_HR71v0Ip4JSn4VL8-BWN17XVx9vfDEI4VDsKP8AL67JajMvDsE6pRtIluVM6AH_N4e_f-mjcRdrUsp3DvOmIaIYvZDDcrlRv2-_UGq0mCeEq5yFRK/s320/IMG_8273.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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The only thing I will change is to shorten the shoulder seam by about 1 cm. Right now it looks a little pointy at the top.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmYy1yG4dqlTBL1ZM4AFbZZk2sFOMStc9STsHvEO7KTjKPvdGz5yGYnLf3zLLifxhiws-zjTkqioUs4c_dQ-SWX3Bz-yLOtCNHCpk8FoJUMlYCX5_2EJITq0SAUOrewpRBoClIuvcMrcZU/s1600/IMG_8274.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmYy1yG4dqlTBL1ZM4AFbZZk2sFOMStc9STsHvEO7KTjKPvdGz5yGYnLf3zLLifxhiws-zjTkqioUs4c_dQ-SWX3Bz-yLOtCNHCpk8FoJUMlYCX5_2EJITq0SAUOrewpRBoClIuvcMrcZU/s400/IMG_8274.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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This is what it looks like with the bow collar. Not bad. What a difference from the first pic. This "bow" is actually a top hem of a different thrifted sheet. The final bow will not be as wide.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgh4AfZQcMCcljHrQ_jZHGqCuANhSkzY3GSyeOtjrXhb2gxn14Cet2aqiG1bON29Sgv-bBTYyIzfA9fUyv0Zn5IDVXcXoVNarKbApY4Cbbh9aUSAWOST-PiysE6Uy2dXxSXechyphenhyphen8hFI3A10/s1600/IMG_8277.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgh4AfZQcMCcljHrQ_jZHGqCuANhSkzY3GSyeOtjrXhb2gxn14Cet2aqiG1bON29Sgv-bBTYyIzfA9fUyv0Zn5IDVXcXoVNarKbApY4Cbbh9aUSAWOST-PiysE6Uy2dXxSXechyphenhyphen8hFI3A10/s320/IMG_8277.JPG" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-zXhkR2HBcLL1o8SUzt6Ds8eKqZc7A0UVA4rQSLaTwk8dbKHgM13tvpNpCbXZtG4AMyq0_pQv-DuQuPiQSdBkbeiopxV7OH-CV8uh_wkV65S8WVQjwAqOxaW_xkeHQdvLjnDOjbYhICYh/s1600/IMG_8278.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-zXhkR2HBcLL1o8SUzt6Ds8eKqZc7A0UVA4rQSLaTwk8dbKHgM13tvpNpCbXZtG4AMyq0_pQv-DuQuPiQSdBkbeiopxV7OH-CV8uh_wkV65S8WVQjwAqOxaW_xkeHQdvLjnDOjbYhICYh/s320/IMG_8278.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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Am I crazy to think this top, as is, looks cute? Should I finish it, or just put it in the "muslin" pile? </div>
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Next: finished top.</div>
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Previous Challenge 11 posts:</div>
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<a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/02/challenge-11-marina-top-intro.html" style="color: #dd5c2a; text-decoration: none;">Challenge 11:: Marina top:: intro</a></div>
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<a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/02/challenge-11-marina-top-drafting.html">Challenge 11:: Marina top:: drafting</a></div>
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<br />Ninahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17022469545932314525noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3359228661163807720.post-43973389398121194832012-02-14T12:29:00.000-08:002012-02-14T12:32:36.618-08:00Challenge 11:: Marina top:: drafting<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; line-height: 18px;">So, in this Challenge, we are going to be modifying the <a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/01/so-here-it-comes-new-challenge-and-free.html">Basic Block 1</a><a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/01/so-here-it-comes-new-challenge-and-free.html"> </a>(on the left) to get the pattern for the top on the right. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifNiHptYIMfjTAIUVSehrxiFmrKPnD6vfZrkeyKIOhDPPc-Jq8l-NeStqCAO91mbncA8-qbNrU5W3PdgDH-FEWXpMY3FaurDAXX3thN1pIm602O8y6fzP4ijNclTnS7Ccd0pLrw2rJZO1J/s1600/basic+A+line+block+technical+drawing.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifNiHptYIMfjTAIUVSehrxiFmrKPnD6vfZrkeyKIOhDPPc-Jq8l-NeStqCAO91mbncA8-qbNrU5W3PdgDH-FEWXpMY3FaurDAXX3thN1pIm602O8y6fzP4ijNclTnS7Ccd0pLrw2rJZO1J/s200/basic+A+line+block+technical+drawing.png" width="192" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisZRQPA5iSFwqAPMiw090r1OGBAq_WApNMqu_AIGsFcb98wZaLvo4ONi24kNNfVYJFag3qszZGXFBfy4pcKx5jRl4rLLft3jnvG7hh2294eHifsrG0IWbloyQHivuf6Q4vqosWV7QeW1V2/s1600/technical+drawing+3.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisZRQPA5iSFwqAPMiw090r1OGBAq_WApNMqu_AIGsFcb98wZaLvo4ONi24kNNfVYJFag3qszZGXFBfy4pcKx5jRl4rLLft3jnvG7hh2294eHifsrG0IWbloyQHivuf6Q4vqosWV7QeW1V2/s200/technical+drawing+3.png" width="154" /></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; line-height: 18px;">As in the previous challenge, I printed and cut out the pattern for the <a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/01/so-here-it-comes-new-challenge-and-free.html" style="color: #dd5c2a; text-decoration: none;">Basic Block 1</a>. There are two pieces, as shown below (remember, the pattern does not include seam allowances):</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMGfEVIignC3bYIYE_G34L67RQC-lwLRgOdYjPCBWKlOMf644AI5ktteED-jSNgtPy-xK7wskfl_hw_47ZhfqGHeW6HJttTdgMn86NosC8Pivn9fCEXKCEsoDhBRPCE7xzvCsXiZV0h7SJ/s1600/blogger-image-1390588015.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMGfEVIignC3bYIYE_G34L67RQC-lwLRgOdYjPCBWKlOMf644AI5ktteED-jSNgtPy-xK7wskfl_hw_47ZhfqGHeW6HJttTdgMn86NosC8Pivn9fCEXKCEsoDhBRPCE7xzvCsXiZV0h7SJ/s320/blogger-image-1390588015.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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This time however, since we need to draft the french sleeve and move all the darts, instead of modifying these two pieces, we will trace them on separate piece of paper.</div>
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So, for the back (see the pic below on left), draw a line from the tip of the dart down to the hem. Place the pattern on a paper and trace from the shoulder dart (from the left dart leg) counterclockwise all the way to where the line from the dart hits the hemline. Then rotate the pattern counterclockwise until the right shoulder dart leg aligns with where you started to trace (where the left dart leg used to be). Then continue tracing from where you stopped (on the pattern) counterclockwise all the way around to where you started. This way you trace the pattern and move the dart at the same time. For more details see the <a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2011/09/week-1-tank-top.html">Week 1 challenge</a>.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6Vf8uR0n7Osz8fhIq0xABp4JXeFY5w4LU7i5UHI48MsNsTatHRTEudImGA7bYrE_YITdNNO-BFvwTxAkIAS2DC3lc7j6rIiQNTpaEKMMZlHrBgZVsDZY9zR1C8zjo0jwtO3dar4quCdhW/s1600/IMG_8260.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6Vf8uR0n7Osz8fhIq0xABp4JXeFY5w4LU7i5UHI48MsNsTatHRTEudImGA7bYrE_YITdNNO-BFvwTxAkIAS2DC3lc7j6rIiQNTpaEKMMZlHrBgZVsDZY9zR1C8zjo0jwtO3dar4quCdhW/s320/IMG_8260.JPG" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB1yQ-ZsAPdHlIOujgfE6PezH5xpj9BrGDSPCZgyLm_f7-phyphenhyphenkL5C78wgChvlSilTPURpfgGSlsYI-iK-rl5OCwZj0cQeeu_324goL0wyWqPODzde0ShCnpGze0aPy3qAap1_EtbYAXtEQ/s1600/IMG_8261.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB1yQ-ZsAPdHlIOujgfE6PezH5xpj9BrGDSPCZgyLm_f7-phyphenhyphenkL5C78wgChvlSilTPURpfgGSlsYI-iK-rl5OCwZj0cQeeu_324goL0wyWqPODzde0ShCnpGze0aPy3qAap1_EtbYAXtEQ/s320/IMG_8261.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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Similarly in the front... Draw a line from the BP straight down to the hemline. Then trace clockwise from the top dart leg, around the pattern to the point where the line from BP hits the hemline. Then rotate the pattern clockwise until the bottom bust dart leg hits where you started tracing, or where the top dart leg used to be before rotating the pattern. Trace from the hem clockwise around to where you started. This was, as in the back, you moved the dart at the same time as you traced the pattern. More details in <a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2011/09/week-1-tank-top.html">Week 1 challenge post</a> (the only difference is the position of the bust dart, but everything else is the same).</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNC2QbMOBgW9EgwjBGszSjViJOChctow5LzRr9AFLo6y3IKXW4EYdHbRcq0fJLa1eKjwjdWY73EAgq7DggJrwu50HHk5Wd2zUsRbuPx45BnzSzI7KkVQI_-vi2Cbbi_V6y6TljB8BfT9ZH/s1600/IMG_8262.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNC2QbMOBgW9EgwjBGszSjViJOChctow5LzRr9AFLo6y3IKXW4EYdHbRcq0fJLa1eKjwjdWY73EAgq7DggJrwu50HHk5Wd2zUsRbuPx45BnzSzI7KkVQI_-vi2Cbbi_V6y6TljB8BfT9ZH/s320/IMG_8262.JPG" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJQXwaSqF-MeFVkdnby9mZzXiYjNTyTOszYchXJqYFBXLU0pxJEsBnJfZ4Ji8Hpv8n88rB2X5hCLrLEYjwpmX3EUnIMbmDsP1FHwbb-QKJ0JLDZIP0g64MekWqEswnPj2b7Nh1zxF-G4QW/s1600/IMG_8263.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJQXwaSqF-MeFVkdnby9mZzXiYjNTyTOszYchXJqYFBXLU0pxJEsBnJfZ4Ji8Hpv8n88rB2X5hCLrLEYjwpmX3EUnIMbmDsP1FHwbb-QKJ0JLDZIP0g64MekWqEswnPj2b7Nh1zxF-G4QW/s320/IMG_8263.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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Now the sleeves... In the front: redraw the shoulder from the neck point to about 1 cm above the shoulder point. Then extend by 8 cm (see pic below).<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbCzcjcoEib7Xs1JkIVYSomu_wkOQOMaVn0oz81f4RMsmX6uPpCTbqDw81jbfk-L_2ViYbzkf8OYIl_LVm99Hl-ck9OnqYSWCiTzaOvbEGm5XF7JFT90DW4rhFC-P4VgRw4ASTGUwwxNfX/s1600/IMG_8264.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbCzcjcoEib7Xs1JkIVYSomu_wkOQOMaVn0oz81f4RMsmX6uPpCTbqDw81jbfk-L_2ViYbzkf8OYIl_LVm99Hl-ck9OnqYSWCiTzaOvbEGm5XF7JFT90DW4rhFC-P4VgRw4ASTGUwwxNfX/s400/IMG_8264.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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In the back: the arm opening is already wide enough, so just extend the shoulder line by 8 cm.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxHywHX7ckGc7xtdU3eX71COPXapxWPEsUARq5QJaur6EfQhcr80Dy3XbMKzSVZz1k2oTkwACyPwnWkMmC8lUtfs6FqOXYC9XqYMHJso-eF5i1fNuh8iR2DDZMEknG2aCFugpGlSweSbgG/s1600/IMG_8266.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxHywHX7ckGc7xtdU3eX71COPXapxWPEsUARq5QJaur6EfQhcr80Dy3XbMKzSVZz1k2oTkwACyPwnWkMmC8lUtfs6FqOXYC9XqYMHJso-eF5i1fNuh8iR2DDZMEknG2aCFugpGlSweSbgG/s400/IMG_8266.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Then, drop the new shoulder point (the end of the shoulder seam) by 0.7 cm on both front and back and redraw and smooth the shoulder line as in pics below. Also, drop the under arm point (the start of the side seam) by 2 cm. I also moved the under arm point out by 0.5 cm, just to make the arm opening curve smoother at that point (where the under arm curve and the side seam meet). Then redraw the sleeve openings. This took a bit of trial and error. The french curve did not work, so I had to do this by hand. One important point, the sleeve curve should be perpendicular to the shoulder seam at the point where they meet. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidrR1zqXyMTnn4EOO0FZqB4rGa5mcKPdbEzs1eHz9EZnNLAhEP4TuHugh9vQoYdkkPlvrsKrm4oS3OxXIL9yzI7rMFLZwxyfRIm4ax-EZIeEToS2xpMSdILy4Ze7584-gwGGELko6_05EA/s1600/IMG_8267.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidrR1zqXyMTnn4EOO0FZqB4rGa5mcKPdbEzs1eHz9EZnNLAhEP4TuHugh9vQoYdkkPlvrsKrm4oS3OxXIL9yzI7rMFLZwxyfRIm4ax-EZIeEToS2xpMSdILy4Ze7584-gwGGELko6_05EA/s320/IMG_8267.JPG" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6fxKdHEdvoQOPxVYJWCXqTlJNbJpbhY5NqUSYV5rIJmrimp2Q_q3jOjEQql54W1Bl0DDVvk-tXrf-jAqW_nn6g-iLoCmyFZkFbU7_rILsW1W0hedbm__StMvrUJm0X2eqMgkpMTPYaT7j/s1600/IMG_8268.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6fxKdHEdvoQOPxVYJWCXqTlJNbJpbhY5NqUSYV5rIJmrimp2Q_q3jOjEQql54W1Bl0DDVvk-tXrf-jAqW_nn6g-iLoCmyFZkFbU7_rILsW1W0hedbm__StMvrUJm0X2eqMgkpMTPYaT7j/s320/IMG_8268.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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Finally - the neckline. I chose a V-neck, not too deep. I am not going to tighten it this time, because it is not that deep, or wide, and there will be the bow collar. Hope it works. So... measure 5 cm from the neck point on the shoulder seam, and 12 cm down the center line. Connect these two points with straight line. The neck curve should "go" about 1 cm to the left of that line, at about 1/3 of the length of the neckline (see pic below). This makes the V-neck lie flatter.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZmo9mmjn5DroY_HJ90h_0fR-2TQcSYtkZVc-l-qYN0SdzA262SSXN2FsECHv3_QWqpnBSLe8JYRFmxOKZNUqWwcupgkKuNKqY9M-xBs7VzKjTXZCIXsjacoo0onXvHDYeCiLS14d-0kEG/s1600/IMG_8269.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZmo9mmjn5DroY_HJ90h_0fR-2TQcSYtkZVc-l-qYN0SdzA262SSXN2FsECHv3_QWqpnBSLe8JYRFmxOKZNUqWwcupgkKuNKqY9M-xBs7VzKjTXZCIXsjacoo0onXvHDYeCiLS14d-0kEG/s320/IMG_8269.JPG" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglGiGS92-oKqpcTlkRAQxQGcri1Xmk4C7XcKr8NNt_MhuD64aZ2E90Nn8yaTuk0aF2qYRZB-9j1bxanTr9woSo2m7NhAx-x86YETHzOlUI43a7GMUTDT_230KADD9ZZIz1crkRE9z9Gr4z/s1600/IMG_8270.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglGiGS92-oKqpcTlkRAQxQGcri1Xmk4C7XcKr8NNt_MhuD64aZ2E90Nn8yaTuk0aF2qYRZB-9j1bxanTr9woSo2m7NhAx-x86YETHzOlUI43a7GMUTDT_230KADD9ZZIz1crkRE9z9Gr4z/s320/IMG_8270.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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We will also need facing to finish this neckline so I drew it on this pattern too. When it comes to cutting the fabric, I will copy the facing on a separate piece of paper. I chose the facing to be 3 cm wide (remember, no seam allowances here). At the bottom of the V-neck, measure 3 cm and then curve the facing slightly to the tip (see pic above).</div>
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Finally, change the neckline in the back: 5 cm from the neck point on the shoulder, 3 cm down the midline. Also, draw in the facing.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjks8DxY8iGOQGMXW6KvtCiFxqI7NoeBhWCxM1vuCJr7i1f_x5nm-Nq8bcd78yDmJtd9Fo98HjTfKZT4rBhTpj_hPC3D1Bxxgfqqx_WYAOYnBuN5_xjkbtVw1nEueg0wvf4iodunvg_2-xy/s1600/IMG_8271.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjks8DxY8iGOQGMXW6KvtCiFxqI7NoeBhWCxM1vuCJr7i1f_x5nm-Nq8bcd78yDmJtd9Fo98HjTfKZT4rBhTpj_hPC3D1Bxxgfqqx_WYAOYnBuN5_xjkbtVw1nEueg0wvf4iodunvg_2-xy/s400/IMG_8271.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Now you are ready to cut the patterns out and check the continuity of the neck and sleeve curves across the shoulder seam. As you can see, I had to redraw the back neck and facing a bit, but the arm opening were fine (not shown here).</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHLq7JrDDp5bkzRViPmHlmD7rRHBsN7llztJvXYx3iHlraSE5o1ipfRKR28blNLHVY7HzqxbAV59FLOLYDpx6FYRwZNqkBDC2xteiWEcUzKvM78Fhyc_9Gift6-x5M1ft7B1f5RNTHgICo/s1600/IMG_8272.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHLq7JrDDp5bkzRViPmHlmD7rRHBsN7llztJvXYx3iHlraSE5o1ipfRKR28blNLHVY7HzqxbAV59FLOLYDpx6FYRwZNqkBDC2xteiWEcUzKvM78Fhyc_9Gift6-x5M1ft7B1f5RNTHgICo/s400/IMG_8272.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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Next... the muslin.</div>
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Previous Challenge 11 posts:</div>
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<a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/02/challenge-11-marina-top-intro.html">Challenge 11:: Marina top:: intro</a></div>
<br />Ninahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17022469545932314525noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3359228661163807720.post-25404284769727183172012-02-14T11:46:00.000-08:002012-02-14T12:31:28.546-08:00Challenge 11:: Marina top:: intro<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 18px;">This week we are continuing making simple sleeveless tops using the basic block 1 pattern available </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 18px;"><a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/01/so-here-it-comes-new-challenge-and-free.html" style="color: #dd5c2a; text-decoration: none;">here</a></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 18px;">.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisZRQPA5iSFwqAPMiw090r1OGBAq_WApNMqu_AIGsFcb98wZaLvo4ONi24kNNfVYJFag3qszZGXFBfy4pcKx5jRl4rLLft3jnvG7hh2294eHifsrG0IWbloyQHivuf6Q4vqosWV7QeW1V2/s1600/technical+drawing+3.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisZRQPA5iSFwqAPMiw090r1OGBAq_WApNMqu_AIGsFcb98wZaLvo4ONi24kNNfVYJFag3qszZGXFBfy4pcKx5jRl4rLLft3jnvG7hh2294eHifsrG0IWbloyQHivuf6Q4vqosWV7QeW1V2/s200/technical+drawing+3.png" width="153" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Marina top</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifNiHptYIMfjTAIUVSehrxiFmrKPnD6vfZrkeyKIOhDPPc-Jq8l-NeStqCAO91mbncA8-qbNrU5W3PdgDH-FEWXpMY3FaurDAXX3thN1pIm602O8y6fzP4ijNclTnS7Ccd0pLrw2rJZO1J/s1600/basic+A+line+block+technical+drawing.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifNiHptYIMfjTAIUVSehrxiFmrKPnD6vfZrkeyKIOhDPPc-Jq8l-NeStqCAO91mbncA8-qbNrU5W3PdgDH-FEWXpMY3FaurDAXX3thN1pIm602O8y6fzP4ijNclTnS7Ccd0pLrw2rJZO1J/s200/basic+A+line+block+technical+drawing.png" width="192" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Basic block 1</td></tr>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 18px;">This one is another relatively simple modifications. We will move the darts into the hem, to get the full A-line design, and reshape the neckline. As for the sleeves... even though the sketch shows a dropped shoulder sleeve, I decided to do a french sleeve. The bow collar does not need any drafting... it is a simple rectangle. We just need to figure out how long/wide it needs to be and how to attach it to the top. That's it.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 18px;">Next: <a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/02/challenge-11-marina-top-drafting.html">drafting</a>.</span>Ninahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17022469545932314525noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3359228661163807720.post-42517238265371525712012-02-06T22:10:00.000-08:002012-02-06T22:10:00.736-08:00Challenge 10:: Editt:: finished<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Editt: all finished. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj0SJZ-rlolBLMnbXogBIsGCSkndHajoia2c2GHqRkJSzGEqpuRVuNvTWbbycjXDlMph84aTvB4KhNPrmGOD2XIpi6HInEyuUNbJKTaieG4R8TJO5OsbPhJNiouyXnR70hNJUfrcpRM9Sf/s1600/technical+drawing+2.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj0SJZ-rlolBLMnbXogBIsGCSkndHajoia2c2GHqRkJSzGEqpuRVuNvTWbbycjXDlMph84aTvB4KhNPrmGOD2XIpi6HInEyuUNbJKTaieG4R8TJO5OsbPhJNiouyXnR70hNJUfrcpRM9Sf/s320/technical+drawing+2.png" width="247" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWP_Wlj14exiO1qjMWQZ4HwBk05mJCxEFNLa9CbeKCMW92Tm5FJfnl59Rgs1NSU3tDS7p1BP5ChWHgwP9zD0w7C6_mxWRufRIDQEAAEz61jQOR6ReF-3kbOJK00NLr9JHlQ7p10L15-J-K/s1600/IMG_8244.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWP_Wlj14exiO1qjMWQZ4HwBk05mJCxEFNLa9CbeKCMW92Tm5FJfnl59Rgs1NSU3tDS7p1BP5ChWHgwP9zD0w7C6_mxWRufRIDQEAAEz61jQOR6ReF-3kbOJK00NLr9JHlQ7p10L15-J-K/s320/IMG_8244.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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I decided to go with different fabric, from what I showed in the <a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/01/challenge-10-editt-drafting.html">drafting post</a>. I though that fabric, which is a shiny, thin beautiful cotton, was too stiff, and wouldn't drape fluidly enough. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA6wRNvu-cKTLKo5DseMU8GI0txdFgBb-xmOxnnur9Ljt2PnME8LMznTdl1LyiV5HaMUSjAA-c1LLmEvHfQEibSs-4jKf2O4BeYvfa-ayQnWKwT5Jvq7CfpZS3utc8S8E00xc657hwuPJz/s1600/IMG_8246.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA6wRNvu-cKTLKo5DseMU8GI0txdFgBb-xmOxnnur9Ljt2PnME8LMznTdl1LyiV5HaMUSjAA-c1LLmEvHfQEibSs-4jKf2O4BeYvfa-ayQnWKwT5Jvq7CfpZS3utc8S8E00xc657hwuPJz/s320/IMG_8246.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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Instead, I went with another fabric from my stash, something I bought many years ago. A very thin, slightly crinkled, man made material. But it was silky enough for this design. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5hyphenhyphenfrK7iEVCDuPpayOKVpAUgJZKFhPeE_NckTj-bnnRHzgh2N8yXq36eU__Jbpjpl6UW6SXV9kFk8w4PP3AcBCkHPmebUEnjm_dcEwnT1q28P5hBNtbyQXwpW5z158Uw93B8ft2NLJQMt/s1600/IMG_8247.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5hyphenhyphenfrK7iEVCDuPpayOKVpAUgJZKFhPeE_NckTj-bnnRHzgh2N8yXq36eU__Jbpjpl6UW6SXV9kFk8w4PP3AcBCkHPmebUEnjm_dcEwnT1q28P5hBNtbyQXwpW5z158Uw93B8ft2NLJQMt/s320/IMG_8247.JPG" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj5NdfbIWLlwMAzkg86UgqWzzGTAkKG4yslnnA1fqvQ4ot4tifYfk8-7SQ1cXU-X3GmP649L8sBOuMVnalvR3-oL6zN3wxZ5u2pcEEVIGG9NmO6t5Dz5JLBHK3mixsIFgsDM5tn02q-vVG/s1600/IMG_8253.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj5NdfbIWLlwMAzkg86UgqWzzGTAkKG4yslnnA1fqvQ4ot4tifYfk8-7SQ1cXU-X3GmP649L8sBOuMVnalvR3-oL6zN3wxZ5u2pcEEVIGG9NmO6t5Dz5JLBHK3mixsIFgsDM5tn02q-vVG/s320/IMG_8253.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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I was very worried about working with this fabric. It is a little chiffon-like, but less shifty. Almost no bias stretch at all. I worked once before with chiffon, and it was a nightmare. Ended in a trash bin. So I ran out to buy a large piece of fleece, because I read once, somewhere, that to cut chiffon without shifting, you can place it over fleece. And it worked. Not that I enjoyed it that much. But it worked.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjpkUrPhguvQhKiSWDnNSeclYOkqf-7V5uxHgTUkX0zQ6jsSsYxju0fyJPInNcIiEKvrra9KywhmF2A_1Wq6QZFJavC9WHuMsbMJbc1KxXTE9QbdX_XCtDPUN5zoe66tmP90wSbZhN3tas/s1600/IMG_8245.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjpkUrPhguvQhKiSWDnNSeclYOkqf-7V5uxHgTUkX0zQ6jsSsYxju0fyJPInNcIiEKvrra9KywhmF2A_1Wq6QZFJavC9WHuMsbMJbc1KxXTE9QbdX_XCtDPUN5zoe66tmP90wSbZhN3tas/s320/IMG_8245.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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The tough part was doing the bias strip around the neck and arms openings. It was so slippery. I ended up using the smallest zig-zag stitch to finish it, to make sure it does not slip away. One good thing is that my machine did not attempt to eat the fabric, not even once. I had that experience once with silk. Never finished that project, because I could not figure out what the problem was.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikwBnVn-Y1T1eeERERTpQ46RjDGBdT9-wO3JjOkBJALosm1skJLBxEFFl76A0b6T4-VmkUNiC8BUFUiYRLuwOArlzkAu1gY9KOFsQ0sk2Hnq2Wv3RnVvVdgxjWBTU5Y3MBTOw4W7eCLKHm/s1600/IMG_8250.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikwBnVn-Y1T1eeERERTpQ46RjDGBdT9-wO3JjOkBJALosm1skJLBxEFFl76A0b6T4-VmkUNiC8BUFUiYRLuwOArlzkAu1gY9KOFsQ0sk2Hnq2Wv3RnVvVdgxjWBTU5Y3MBTOw4W7eCLKHm/s320/IMG_8250.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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All in all, this turned out very nicely. It took a bit longer than expected, because of the fabric, but I am very happy with it. I have to say though, my favorite fabrics to work with, by far, are linen and cotton. But you can't make everything out of cotton. Or can you?</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijhAiI-HT2fVK43fwwz-26dTVSf_AZlUyUf9YTdeLiouv3XCLE0VwQIbMfEDiHMT85sNfhfc97KqStn1hsQYJxn_0chkga0j6FG0TAOc1fNpvdYYK-zFw39b9MEnxDp4qC-CRmVzspt9q6/s1600/IMG_8251.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijhAiI-HT2fVK43fwwz-26dTVSf_AZlUyUf9YTdeLiouv3XCLE0VwQIbMfEDiHMT85sNfhfc97KqStn1hsQYJxn_0chkga0j6FG0TAOc1fNpvdYYK-zFw39b9MEnxDp4qC-CRmVzspt9q6/s320/IMG_8251.JPG" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1Z-daWoepWXMgIDsoW5r9fzJk3LLiWO3piQR5wNDOA9agXrbY6u0VRd9pGW4fRMYdtRc4sl5J0VTLUUghpfN4TjQJxTx-3WkUvGG-uj0InV9LWHz-zPC-mrx24GhaAeGUjil-beCduGcN/s1600/IMG_8252.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1Z-daWoepWXMgIDsoW5r9fzJk3LLiWO3piQR5wNDOA9agXrbY6u0VRd9pGW4fRMYdtRc4sl5J0VTLUUghpfN4TjQJxTx-3WkUvGG-uj0InV9LWHz-zPC-mrx24GhaAeGUjil-beCduGcN/s320/IMG_8252.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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I had some left over fabric, so I made it into a scarf. Long enough to tie around the waist. </div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Some techniques you might find useful:</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="http://www.coletterie.com/tutorials-tips-tricks/facing-or-detail-bias-binding" style="color: #dd5c2a; text-decoration: none;">Facing or Detail: Bias Binding</a></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_873454645">Gathering Sitches</a></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; line-height: 18px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Previous Challenge 10 posts:</span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; line-height: 18px;"><a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/01/challenge-10-editt-intro.html" style="color: #dd5c2a; text-decoration: none;">Challenge 10:: Editt:: intro</a></span></div>
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<a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/01/challenge-10-editt-drafting.html" style="color: #dd5c2a; text-decoration: none;">Challenge 10:: Editt:: drafting</a></div>
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<a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/02/challenge-10-editt-muslin-and.html">Challenge 10:: Editt:: muslin and modifications</a></div>
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<br />Ninahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17022469545932314525noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3359228661163807720.post-19241728120085100782012-02-06T21:35:00.000-08:002012-02-06T22:10:43.646-08:00Challenge 10:: Editt:: muslin and modifications<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
A thrifted shirt makes a very economic, but not necessarily sightly, muslin. This choice also posed another problem: this fabric was a bit too stiff for this top, but I was not going to cut another one, so I had to use my imagination and hope for the best.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8baQjdgRHZgSOyUy5dULjoCkK8m_J4CT9rMIxXb4VtCzZwXo4_0-aaDrtYWe0Q3Pz41EuJjR7sOPQZXiAwyq8AyxaJhwPEfuhiqx8p6ks20Z936IXaGSxGKjeA1AKd2o01vl78HtunvtB/s1600/IMG_8237.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8baQjdgRHZgSOyUy5dULjoCkK8m_J4CT9rMIxXb4VtCzZwXo4_0-aaDrtYWe0Q3Pz41EuJjR7sOPQZXiAwyq8AyxaJhwPEfuhiqx8p6ks20Z936IXaGSxGKjeA1AKd2o01vl78HtunvtB/s320/IMG_8237.JPG" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpvvkFSqmm_PtPXqHytoXpRAuTcwceXrQS09UukmjMdEyqfqbQgAyHOunznMkcpb_YUVwpxoC_UnVFujAnrl4kC58q_3QZvK5woSTythnYm8lYn9uWG77doK_OkUBuL-7lLLPYPWhSx0Kq/s1600/IMG_8240.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpvvkFSqmm_PtPXqHytoXpRAuTcwceXrQS09UukmjMdEyqfqbQgAyHOunznMkcpb_YUVwpxoC_UnVFujAnrl4kC58q_3QZvK5woSTythnYm8lYn9uWG77doK_OkUBuL-7lLLPYPWhSx0Kq/s320/IMG_8240.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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The fit was mostly OK: the shoulder and the front gathers, the overall drape. But I felt it was a bit too wide around the bust. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNcek8I-JwWKB_aSjdhrJiY8lc7j2ptlnEMHcc_kke2t66_-531jRoCkSoUzyvraTAv627HIugzpjYmyvB5Dcqb0mIQnpkzyglFuRs_hQUn_CYp9HHZi2eTqg8d2ACqC8Ueayhtj4dEcvF/s1600/IMG_8238.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNcek8I-JwWKB_aSjdhrJiY8lc7j2ptlnEMHcc_kke2t66_-531jRoCkSoUzyvraTAv627HIugzpjYmyvB5Dcqb0mIQnpkzyglFuRs_hQUn_CYp9HHZi2eTqg8d2ACqC8Ueayhtj4dEcvF/s320/IMG_8238.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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When I cut muslin I do not include seam allowances for the neck/arm openings for sleeveless tops with a simple neckline (no closures or collars). That way I can see the final size, without finishing them.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDNEzSIwkwWbfCg7ZAdA2kNaXvOOMaaFK-zlZ9xqujRwouUg9zXPOgjaZk5YHzgLzZDOZRJkX_z_tu7udwkR_qc4fCnYrwNJatT0rNvBDADx14xtImjlDxbSrSNzeZg0-wm0TtLcJMTy9M/s1600/IMG_8239.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDNEzSIwkwWbfCg7ZAdA2kNaXvOOMaaFK-zlZ9xqujRwouUg9zXPOgjaZk5YHzgLzZDOZRJkX_z_tu7udwkR_qc4fCnYrwNJatT0rNvBDADx14xtImjlDxbSrSNzeZg0-wm0TtLcJMTy9M/s320/IMG_8239.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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I did just one small, simple modification: I took in 1 cm on the side seam on the back, not the front. This is what the muslin looks like after the modification. A little less width at the bust.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg284lms9ZkSNbFg7Ky_RjtDqZn-XpM0WLpoVve7etty7fWMZzd4U1yicxFZXWWJrmdRpkPeeoNibd4KEVGKbJ-Udi5Vwvb7-grS6i-kOxSpktiWJmz-dDBmKMVGfr4rvUx8pQNsqvgx6Dl/s1600/IMG_8241.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg284lms9ZkSNbFg7Ky_RjtDqZn-XpM0WLpoVve7etty7fWMZzd4U1yicxFZXWWJrmdRpkPeeoNibd4KEVGKbJ-Udi5Vwvb7-grS6i-kOxSpktiWJmz-dDBmKMVGfr4rvUx8pQNsqvgx6Dl/s320/IMG_8241.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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This is what I did on the pattern - simply redraw the side seam 1 cm in. I also reshape the arm opening a bit. That's it.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj__WP9IxjKLlc1SOEEd8sdriDqr2RnhLeJagbTswEDYuZRQuamtbQJ25K4gmfC-uDThUNpa6bkyEy_nuRMzVgywijf8FVhOY6D3BhXPSCqtKzkZ6v4aYkZWE_du7tzmLH11IJVPoUVCuk/s1600/IMG_8243.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj__WP9IxjKLlc1SOEEd8sdriDqr2RnhLeJagbTswEDYuZRQuamtbQJ25K4gmfC-uDThUNpa6bkyEy_nuRMzVgywijf8FVhOY6D3BhXPSCqtKzkZ6v4aYkZWE_du7tzmLH11IJVPoUVCuk/s320/IMG_8243.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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Next, the <a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/02/challenge-10-editt-finished.html">finished</a> Editt top...</div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; line-height: 18px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Previous Challenge 10 posts:</span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; line-height: 18px;"><a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/01/challenge-10-editt-intro.html" style="color: #dd5c2a; text-decoration: none;">Challenge 10:: Editt:: intro</a></span></div>
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<a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/01/challenge-10-editt-drafting.html">Challenge 10:: Editt:: drafting</a></div>
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<br />Ninahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17022469545932314525noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3359228661163807720.post-66725239437359928462012-02-03T13:04:00.000-08:002012-02-03T13:04:59.896-08:00Wow! A gift!I haven't been feeling well all this week. Supposedly some kind of a stomach bug is going around. Well, I knew that, but I did not know it can hit you twice. Second time being worse than the first.<br />
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Anyway... I got this message on facebook from <a href="http://www.evamejldesign.com/">Eva Mejl Design company</a>, telling me they are going to send me a dress I pinned on my pinterest board, as a gift. A gift just for pinning! How great is that!<br />
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I feel better now. I will soon have an awesome dress for the summer!!!<br />
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Thank you <a href="http://www.evamejldesign.com/">Eva Mejl</a>!Ninahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17022469545932314525noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3359228661163807720.post-16858215284950741682012-01-31T22:55:00.000-08:002012-02-06T21:36:32.989-08:00Challenge 10:: Editt:: drafting<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
So, in this Challenge, we are going to be modifying the Basic Block 1 (on the left) to get the pattern for the top on the right. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifNiHptYIMfjTAIUVSehrxiFmrKPnD6vfZrkeyKIOhDPPc-Jq8l-NeStqCAO91mbncA8-qbNrU5W3PdgDH-FEWXpMY3FaurDAXX3thN1pIm602O8y6fzP4ijNclTnS7Ccd0pLrw2rJZO1J/s1600/basic+A+line+block+technical+drawing.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifNiHptYIMfjTAIUVSehrxiFmrKPnD6vfZrkeyKIOhDPPc-Jq8l-NeStqCAO91mbncA8-qbNrU5W3PdgDH-FEWXpMY3FaurDAXX3thN1pIm602O8y6fzP4ijNclTnS7Ccd0pLrw2rJZO1J/s200/basic+A+line+block+technical+drawing.png" width="192" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj0SJZ-rlolBLMnbXogBIsGCSkndHajoia2c2GHqRkJSzGEqpuRVuNvTWbbycjXDlMph84aTvB4KhNPrmGOD2XIpi6HInEyuUNbJKTaieG4R8TJO5OsbPhJNiouyXnR70hNJUfrcpRM9Sf/s1600/technical+drawing+2.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj0SJZ-rlolBLMnbXogBIsGCSkndHajoia2c2GHqRkJSzGEqpuRVuNvTWbbycjXDlMph84aTvB4KhNPrmGOD2XIpi6HInEyuUNbJKTaieG4R8TJO5OsbPhJNiouyXnR70hNJUfrcpRM9Sf/s200/technical+drawing+2.png" width="154" /></a></div>
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As in the previous challenge, I printed and cut out the pattern for the <a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/01/so-here-it-comes-new-challenge-and-free.html">Basic Block 1</a>. There are two pieces, as shown below (remember, the pattern does not include seam allowances):</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMGfEVIignC3bYIYE_G34L67RQC-lwLRgOdYjPCBWKlOMf644AI5ktteED-jSNgtPy-xK7wskfl_hw_47ZhfqGHeW6HJttTdgMn86NosC8Pivn9fCEXKCEsoDhBRPCE7xzvCsXiZV0h7SJ/s1600/blogger-image-1390588015.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMGfEVIignC3bYIYE_G34L67RQC-lwLRgOdYjPCBWKlOMf644AI5ktteED-jSNgtPy-xK7wskfl_hw_47ZhfqGHeW6HJttTdgMn86NosC8Pivn9fCEXKCEsoDhBRPCE7xzvCsXiZV0h7SJ/s400/blogger-image-1390588015.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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We will start with the front. First, redraw the neckline. I measured 4 cm from the neck on the shoulder seam and 9 cm down the midline. These numbers are arbitrary and you can choose your own... This time, I want the shoulder to be a bit wider than on the <a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/01/challenge-9-ulla-top-intro-and-drafting.html">Ulla top</a>, so I took just 1.5 cm off from the arm opening. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsPRH5d8YtG6nG5QtZ-AeZG67w2lOpN84rwnglg0FZy8dGpL5cBqLm0xae3JlVAkZccQ0C_58yYx9cXu9a5bTpEwsJxDeUJBnf3Rnl0QHlfeasDBeEhDIihbM5TX0DQI_RI_70zyACfz7r/s1600/IMG_8223.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsPRH5d8YtG6nG5QtZ-AeZG67w2lOpN84rwnglg0FZy8dGpL5cBqLm0xae3JlVAkZccQ0C_58yYx9cXu9a5bTpEwsJxDeUJBnf3Rnl0QHlfeasDBeEhDIihbM5TX0DQI_RI_70zyACfz7r/s320/IMG_8223.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Since this is another wide/deep neckline, I will tighten it as well. It is the same as for <a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/01/challenge-9-ulla-top-intro-and-drafting.html">Ulla top</a> last week: draw a line from the Bust Point (BP) to the new neckline at about 1/3 of the length of the neckline from the midline. Then measure 0.5 cm down, toward the midline and draw another line to BP. These two lines form a small "dart" that we'll cut out and close. </div>
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Redraw the arm opening. You could have done it in the previous step. I just forgot.</div>
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Cut out the new neckline, arm opening, the bust dart and the new "dart" at the neckline. Remember to cut the dart to, but not through the BP. You don't want the two pieces of the pattern to separate.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3JOSuPuIoLpfWej7ml3RvHYRVOBRdd7cCOIozjDek4bYJODOSRTmUnd07NxrmCdzZYLG6N5eCFBFMlmczBrw_c5wsygqx2txnnXYEqzv75chw4TY9xBLhiyf2iCmgn1Y2qj1lJEzJKY-I/s1600/IMG_8224.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3JOSuPuIoLpfWej7ml3RvHYRVOBRdd7cCOIozjDek4bYJODOSRTmUnd07NxrmCdzZYLG6N5eCFBFMlmczBrw_c5wsygqx2txnnXYEqzv75chw4TY9xBLhiyf2iCmgn1Y2qj1lJEzJKY-I/s320/IMG_8224.JPG" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHHm47pzUUAH2lnCiwBbNRk1L_CfxMXE053CwqfyKbORcLK-5An7KnPxa9xBX4xQVHj3GhGWGrvSw2hvDt8uVLa9b1b8TQSQmRZoyMetsHdCFEbdqr6-GejHCqrk5mc-tMrSpE6sYPlfQP/s1600/IMG_8226.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHHm47pzUUAH2lnCiwBbNRk1L_CfxMXE053CwqfyKbORcLK-5An7KnPxa9xBX4xQVHj3GhGWGrvSw2hvDt8uVLa9b1b8TQSQmRZoyMetsHdCFEbdqr6-GejHCqrk5mc-tMrSpE6sYPlfQP/s320/IMG_8226.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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Now move the smaller part of the pattern to the right, until you close the neckline "dart". Tape together. We just moved the neckline dart into the bust dart. This tightens the neckline, and widens the bust dart. Fix (smooth) the neck curve if needed.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsu539hyphenhyphenHU8FTvTRpSu-736YetUgIl-9UA29b61jrXBtLqhppQTMSapZIbgXsXcrtKddND4z7M80mhrK88zSR5_HS3E4YUmRJ4PoXfnx3bQ3pQOXAz9ulzDEUUGxdhWiSzj_5lKcTnxSyK/s1600/IMG_8227.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsu539hyphenhyphenHU8FTvTRpSu-736YetUgIl-9UA29b61jrXBtLqhppQTMSapZIbgXsXcrtKddND4z7M80mhrK88zSR5_HS3E4YUmRJ4PoXfnx3bQ3pQOXAz9ulzDEUUGxdhWiSzj_5lKcTnxSyK/s400/IMG_8227.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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Now the back... Reshape the neckline first. Move the neck point 4 cm down the shoulder seam, and deepen the neck opening by 5 cm (or choose your own values).</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1e7ml6gJl1rtYGP0JXo514F958V6Pg25xVcfInYWNQ_42u1qpqjH7WEcOuNtYdDjJ6tB4FfHjeAuSrKJijI_qDUqURgyA5xU1K97Mw3Zbmtf7ZyWSLj36BVyRH66HRpIx_Rl3io1PfexK/s1600/IMG_8228.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1e7ml6gJl1rtYGP0JXo514F958V6Pg25xVcfInYWNQ_42u1qpqjH7WEcOuNtYdDjJ6tB4FfHjeAuSrKJijI_qDUqURgyA5xU1K97Mw3Zbmtf7ZyWSLj36BVyRH66HRpIx_Rl3io1PfexK/s400/IMG_8228.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Now the dart... We will move it into the hemline, same as for the <a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/01/challenge-9-ulla-top-intro-and-drafting.html">Ulla top</a>. So, draw a line straight down from the tip of the shoulder dart to the hemline. Cut along that line to, but not through the tip. Cut out the shoulder dart. Put some paper under the pattern, and close the shoulder dart as you wish... depending on how much flare you want to add along the hemline. This time I opened it about 3cm (measured at the hemline). I will simply ignore the remaining shoulder dart and blend it in the design. Tape to the paper below to secure and cut out.</div>
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Next, align the front and the back, such that neck openings match. Tape together. Redraw the back arm opening and fix the neck curves, if they are not smooth across the shoulder seam. Then draw a line 5 cm away from the neck seam line, parallel to the seam line, on the front pattern. This will be the "yoke". It's not really a yoke, since it will be a part of the back pattern, but I don't know what else to call it. Cut along that line.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOJi09SN28mNDFBpCDFvEMYDlW8U-x-qiE7CRwoOC42JpcX9c_gEUSxQecHGdpxrwcjt4jO3ugvUEhew-GbidqldFGwMlnfjIAHYmptIh6nUM2BpwkCXnK-SFJfcjzuzo4VhxSE4bbDnzF/s1600/IMG_8229.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOJi09SN28mNDFBpCDFvEMYDlW8U-x-qiE7CRwoOC42JpcX9c_gEUSxQecHGdpxrwcjt4jO3ugvUEhew-GbidqldFGwMlnfjIAHYmptIh6nUM2BpwkCXnK-SFJfcjzuzo4VhxSE4bbDnzF/s320/IMG_8229.JPG" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhP6gKFayJzH4TWAMaeRUI9LUkFKEINY3anZL7hecpaxA4mZZXtovgaEEdIFjZiin60GSH23quesrzl4PsyI6Nx1dAefdcPjPK-zBKejWOqSYr9jA6JKvOirhK8ZnaG5FDZ26RvovBIjHyW/s1600/IMG_8231.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhP6gKFayJzH4TWAMaeRUI9LUkFKEINY3anZL7hecpaxA4mZZXtovgaEEdIFjZiin60GSH23quesrzl4PsyI6Nx1dAefdcPjPK-zBKejWOqSYr9jA6JKvOirhK8ZnaG5FDZ26RvovBIjHyW/s320/IMG_8231.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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Back to the front pattern. Now we will move the bust dart into the shoulder seam (the new shoulder seam or the "yoke") to get the gathers. (I did the same thing in <a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2011/11/week-6-kioko-blouse-finished.html">week 6</a>) So... draw a line from BP to the middle of the shoulder seam (point 1) and then measure about 1.5 cm on each side of 1 to mark points 2 and 3. I placed * marks about 1 cm away from points 2 and 3 - you will be gathering between those points. Cut along the lines from 1, 2 and 3 to BP (but not through). Now place some paper under the shoulder part of the pattern and close and tape the bust dart. Fan out the cut out pieces evenly and tape to the paper below. Reshape the shoulder seam and cut out.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOZVyvQGJjpxIcKr3mjV0PyDkoK0cSvP2FPxBCAgy1RygoKBcLwm_iWEDvlfvJowiecnsaluel8MD6d1X8utWToMpcFCAaKUZ9A_Av27ZKsxkofUzkRkZfAUWpXTAfyJSeWI7pHRmzLN5S/s1600/IMG_8232.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOZVyvQGJjpxIcKr3mjV0PyDkoK0cSvP2FPxBCAgy1RygoKBcLwm_iWEDvlfvJowiecnsaluel8MD6d1X8utWToMpcFCAaKUZ9A_Av27ZKsxkofUzkRkZfAUWpXTAfyJSeWI7pHRmzLN5S/s320/IMG_8232.JPG" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWrQgZ1FZaTifcHHgViVFsNPPpf26boRvVeKcWjhUc8ozJj-Bldy_vtcNOAr6PbNfq0a5cJ9a7711Hby95ZkV93FcdiCXF0DdKBzFWwjnFGJgHekOtZNET0wseFkFK5GrrNQVV5TQS5b7p/s1600/IMG_8233.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWrQgZ1FZaTifcHHgViVFsNPPpf26boRvVeKcWjhUc8ozJj-Bldy_vtcNOAr6PbNfq0a5cJ9a7711Hby95ZkV93FcdiCXF0DdKBzFWwjnFGJgHekOtZNET0wseFkFK5GrrNQVV5TQS5b7p/s320/IMG_8233.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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And now for the front gathers... We need to add some width at the midline. Mark * at the desired distance from the midline. Make sure that it is on the flat part of the curve, otherwise your neckline might not keep shape after gathering. In my case, * is 2 cm away from the midline. I will add 3 cm to the width - in other words move the midline 3 cm to the right. I was a little lazy, and did not actually add it to the pattern. I will add it when I cut the fabric - I will simply move the "old" midline 3 cm away from the fabric fold.</div>
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The * mark is also important for finishing the neckline. In my case, after gathering, the distance between * marks will have to be 4 cm. That way I will know that I have the same neckline after gathering... (this is a sneak peak of the fabric I will be using!)</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsq80UHYYJ5XGjF3kyWEbb6KFu75AKKcGjAg8auqFTEtiQeDmUruWzNbF2mzgTTVCsIji8En1coxpYHAe_IY9YK4kOo-7b-xKRKEmEGuH6-RE2bseRso6Jaeoe0P8VZDRFf8FYPwP6q4V-/s1600/IMG_8234.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsq80UHYYJ5XGjF3kyWEbb6KFu75AKKcGjAg8auqFTEtiQeDmUruWzNbF2mzgTTVCsIji8En1coxpYHAe_IY9YK4kOo-7b-xKRKEmEGuH6-RE2bseRso6Jaeoe0P8VZDRFf8FYPwP6q4V-/s320/IMG_8234.JPG" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgD6Os5nZfCry9V90SMwZpWEGpJz4ds1OVzzfERHEOCAp2fHQXS80GCctE8KzXIVlzevvbVHtIKSMbuc5BYLm8TjXYSoIUSJJtrLttrf0EOYIWCShz9ENSrnc7Ig8yqsud-BO_W2CGoX5HK/s1600/IMG_8235.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgD6Os5nZfCry9V90SMwZpWEGpJz4ds1OVzzfERHEOCAp2fHQXS80GCctE8KzXIVlzevvbVHtIKSMbuc5BYLm8TjXYSoIUSJJtrLttrf0EOYIWCShz9ENSrnc7Ig8yqsud-BO_W2CGoX5HK/s320/IMG_8235.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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And that's it. This is what front and back look after all the modifications (well, except the added width in the front). I just noticed I will have to smooth the arm curve on the back a bit more.. it's not smooth across the original shoulder seam.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi0i0kuDG0OJDlzUVJ2pHXGo5PnxLB1zMz798HKioQijXR3yNu8qdsgep6zjHD_mczcQEHbPYo43ane39kL3-ic8sg6flyiIBu330URT-kiAd_6BWoyL0y0q2g3COliOvdYMMjMJBTXTLG/s1600/IMG_8236.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi0i0kuDG0OJDlzUVJ2pHXGo5PnxLB1zMz798HKioQijXR3yNu8qdsgep6zjHD_mczcQEHbPYo43ane39kL3-ic8sg6flyiIBu330URT-kiAd_6BWoyL0y0q2g3COliOvdYMMjMJBTXTLG/s400/IMG_8236.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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Next: <a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/02/challenge-10-editt-muslin-and.html">muslin</a>...</div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; line-height: 18px;">Previous Challenge 10 posts:</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; line-height: 18px;"><a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/01/challenge-10-editt-intro.html">Challenge 10:: Editt:: intro</a></span></div>
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<br />Ninahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17022469545932314525noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3359228661163807720.post-81720925469010281192012-01-30T11:56:00.000-08:002012-01-30T12:00:55.678-08:00Challenge 10:: Editt:: introThis week we are continuing making simple sleeveless tops using the basic block 1 pattern available <a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/01/so-here-it-comes-new-challenge-and-free.html">here</a>. I named Challenge 10 top: Editt. No reason really.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifNiHptYIMfjTAIUVSehrxiFmrKPnD6vfZrkeyKIOhDPPc-Jq8l-NeStqCAO91mbncA8-qbNrU5W3PdgDH-FEWXpMY3FaurDAXX3thN1pIm602O8y6fzP4ijNclTnS7Ccd0pLrw2rJZO1J/s1600/basic+A+line+block+technical+drawing.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifNiHptYIMfjTAIUVSehrxiFmrKPnD6vfZrkeyKIOhDPPc-Jq8l-NeStqCAO91mbncA8-qbNrU5W3PdgDH-FEWXpMY3FaurDAXX3thN1pIm602O8y6fzP4ijNclTnS7Ccd0pLrw2rJZO1J/s200/basic+A+line+block+technical+drawing.png" width="192" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Basic Block 1</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj0SJZ-rlolBLMnbXogBIsGCSkndHajoia2c2GHqRkJSzGEqpuRVuNvTWbbycjXDlMph84aTvB4KhNPrmGOD2XIpi6HInEyuUNbJKTaieG4R8TJO5OsbPhJNiouyXnR70hNJUfrcpRM9Sf/s1600/technical+drawing+2.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj0SJZ-rlolBLMnbXogBIsGCSkndHajoia2c2GHqRkJSzGEqpuRVuNvTWbbycjXDlMph84aTvB4KhNPrmGOD2XIpi6HInEyuUNbJKTaieG4R8TJO5OsbPhJNiouyXnR70hNJUfrcpRM9Sf/s200/technical+drawing+2.png" width="154" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Editt top</td></tr>
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This will be another relatively easy modification. We will reshape neck and arm as in Challenge 9 - except the neckline will be less deep. Then we will move the bust dart into the shoulder to create the gathers, and add some gathers in the front. That's it. Oh, and there is the yoke... actually, it's not a yoke, just a pattern change on the shoulder...<br />
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<br />Ninahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17022469545932314525noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3359228661163807720.post-51585051822584255762012-01-27T11:39:00.000-08:002012-01-27T11:39:32.962-08:00Challenge 9:: Ulla top:: finished<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Finished! This might not be 'oh so very exciting', because as you might notice, Ulla top is basically the same as the <a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2011/10/week-4-basic-sleeveless-top-finished.html">basic sleeveless top</a> made back in Week 4. But this time, I did not draft it from the basic sloper, I used a basic block I created. </div>
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(Just a side note. I use sloper/block interchangeably, and it might be a bit confusing - and sometimes it is for me too. But let me give you a definition a found in Concepts of Pattern Grading by Moore, Mullet and Young (underlining by me):</div>
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"The most simplified pattern consists of a set of <b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: red;">basic slopers</span>, </b>which contains the minimum number of pattern pieces required for a <u>fitted garment</u>, with <u>minimum ease</u> and no seam allowances."</div>
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"<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: red;">Basic blocks</span></b> are a set of pattern pieces for a <span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: red;"><b>style</b></span> category such as a princess dress or an A-line skirt. They are free of fashion details and usually contain only the major pattern pieces without finishing details, such as facings and pockets."</div>
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So the <a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/01/so-here-it-comes-new-challenge-and-free.html">pattern I have created</a> and used to make Ulla, falls under the "basic block" category. Because it is more than the sloper since it is of a particular style (this one is slightly A-line bodice with some extra ease - so that it can be used for pull-over type of garments). In each of the challenges, we will add different fashion details, to create a different garment.</div>
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In this particular case, all we did was change the neck and arm openings to create this simple top. For drafting details see <a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/01/challenge-9-ulla-top-intro-and-drafting.html">the previous post</a>.</div>
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Here is the muslin. No problems, fits as expected and no changes to the pattern are needed.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiB8-jVRAZ-TZepOOe8arOBsyLM3z3GQ5-S2mbhXhN4CPQhqHv30oTbf2QM5obIZJ87x3zx8pbonnu271RKgIR0HDYjRBLqstlnL5bQ79VVkoAL76jACNtpTXPz98OjT8gyhNctUbyrkwI/s1600/IMG_8193.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiB8-jVRAZ-TZepOOe8arOBsyLM3z3GQ5-S2mbhXhN4CPQhqHv30oTbf2QM5obIZJ87x3zx8pbonnu271RKgIR0HDYjRBLqstlnL5bQ79VVkoAL76jACNtpTXPz98OjT8gyhNctUbyrkwI/s320/IMG_8193.JPG" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiig_AnNIe_xdscAxuDDxo0Y5gsV_zknmU7wYdqRRvcQ4-wHpohiuwuPLCvRU5TZpawAE7oDlPxjGmFtCWdgrojQSjg3xRMMRC7f8TDzlz5m6_1_8Ei2IExfEl6PQMNvYUrf0O8ccX48qJS/s1600/IMG_8195.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiig_AnNIe_xdscAxuDDxo0Y5gsV_zknmU7wYdqRRvcQ4-wHpohiuwuPLCvRU5TZpawAE7oDlPxjGmFtCWdgrojQSjg3xRMMRC7f8TDzlz5m6_1_8Ei2IExfEl6PQMNvYUrf0O8ccX48qJS/s320/IMG_8195.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmRGkqGYDupZFos2A0hR1qn4vnRes3SkliT20MRyE0_FthmiglzhC3aCg2zhJyg-CmuzhtwUUxH09YA66E6k7ipvSgOt3m4xaAl-oeXmN3MXGmOA0V5Fd35yZCxeKuTJ32H2FQ_lm7fAvs/s1600/IMG_8194.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmRGkqGYDupZFos2A0hR1qn4vnRes3SkliT20MRyE0_FthmiglzhC3aCg2zhJyg-CmuzhtwUUxH09YA66E6k7ipvSgOt3m4xaAl-oeXmN3MXGmOA0V5Fd35yZCxeKuTJ32H2FQ_lm7fAvs/s320/IMG_8194.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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The fabric I chose for this particular top was this floral - it is very light, crinkle gauze (I am sure this has a proper name), which I bought at Jo Anns many years ago (I am keeping with the promise to use fabric from my stash before buying new). It felt like cotton, but it did not iron like cotton. Iron? Yes, I ironed it lightly because it had transverse wrinkles since it sat folded for a looong time. Otherwise I would not iron it. </div>
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I have never worked with this type of fabrics before and I was worried about a few things - how am I going to trace the pattern with my marking pen? it's crinkled, it's going to move around...; how am I going to prevent it from stretching while sewing, especially around the neck and arms? So I decided to line it.... I don;t know if this is really lining, but I basically cut two layers - the bottom one in non-stretchy cream cotton (actually it's the muslin; I made this decision before doing the muslin, and I was confident that I will not have any problems, so I chose a fabric I could use in the finished garment) and the top one the print fabric.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgO8nXG35K4e7GXPoyeskv66UIgg3BRwH7u7PFBg-EYaZ00zbzqJQn2DRhP2CXrTXNSsPGe4fhP2GSQ87g2bqY3Jte7ygYOMOvmc5h97xsUTtL8hGI8c9i5YIDYM3TjxRAc34xCbthBJmkr/s1600/IMG_8200.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgO8nXG35K4e7GXPoyeskv66UIgg3BRwH7u7PFBg-EYaZ00zbzqJQn2DRhP2CXrTXNSsPGe4fhP2GSQ87g2bqY3Jte7ygYOMOvmc5h97xsUTtL8hGI8c9i5YIDYM3TjxRAc34xCbthBJmkr/s320/IMG_8200.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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And... here it is. The print fabric was tricky, but having the bottom layer really helped, because I knew what the finished dimension is, so I didn;t have to worry if I am stretching the fabric or not. I had to iron it a couple of times - when I did the darts and after I finished sewing around the neck and arms, to have it lay down. After that I had a minor panic attack. The fabric got all bent out of shape. But then it settled, and this is what it looks like now.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibhTYHuU9TPkbK19jy3LOCpie50cfllBwNlzjBzhLhqnSpCgY6ecqm39vLcjnL3ghOnHQCKyq7SryvvgUSCQ5iy-lLeMYcIc7-hYRma1Hbmt4aOrAIXp7OqNzXsAC3WE3ZTq3XJc4iN6J6/s1600/IMG_8196.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibhTYHuU9TPkbK19jy3LOCpie50cfllBwNlzjBzhLhqnSpCgY6ecqm39vLcjnL3ghOnHQCKyq7SryvvgUSCQ5iy-lLeMYcIc7-hYRma1Hbmt4aOrAIXp7OqNzXsAC3WE3ZTq3XJc4iN6J6/s320/IMG_8196.JPG" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdqQKdDaARv_ZwFtMsqeBGQGKYLuYIA2lPAj-1ElkK1ugIrB2a6i_WQl_CGmyXUT_jU3n4lqkDmICg-wFqU5HKnBbNLe2VCi4GX26aMx7nxgVrQPhxJp-00bnkIPPrYAy5tsrO9huxW5Nk/s1600/IMG_8198.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdqQKdDaARv_ZwFtMsqeBGQGKYLuYIA2lPAj-1ElkK1ugIrB2a6i_WQl_CGmyXUT_jU3n4lqkDmICg-wFqU5HKnBbNLe2VCi4GX26aMx7nxgVrQPhxJp-00bnkIPPrYAy5tsrO9huxW5Nk/s320/IMG_8198.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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I serged the hem. I like it on these kinds of sleeveless tops made of light airy fabrics.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY1lsUhK5EVT3ZkHptz6x8FyLcWNRe67dwwonPzGAY72oxhBiuXhh4JG-Y-aVGJWEO9iBBCfuyD9TNKZJoHFxHXe_PKqtmtxrQvpya9eBdhRqCxY4vmo9vqphys14DYPdzpIMmbkXnljWJ/s1600/IMG_8197.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY1lsUhK5EVT3ZkHptz6x8FyLcWNRe67dwwonPzGAY72oxhBiuXhh4JG-Y-aVGJWEO9iBBCfuyD9TNKZJoHFxHXe_PKqtmtxrQvpya9eBdhRqCxY4vmo9vqphys14DYPdzpIMmbkXnljWJ/s400/IMG_8197.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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The pattern modifications I did to get from the basic block to this pattern were a bit different from what I did in <a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2011/10/week-4-basic-sleeveless-top-finished.html">Week 4</a> when I started from the sloper. At some point I thought this would come out wider in the bottom, more A-line. But it didn't.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpjz7oAlCEMortGZzACwyl0MILnVUatE9NVPGMM74995S3Xef3HlsxiUYeCGhwVo0XgQXqDBUbt0_Qu5bsFQKTaSqViydqHNEL6bLDv0jKn4onlWcwj0xpOYH8IzSQg3FypQ_CYjiVKz09/s1600/IMG_8199.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpjz7oAlCEMortGZzACwyl0MILnVUatE9NVPGMM74995S3Xef3HlsxiUYeCGhwVo0XgQXqDBUbt0_Qu5bsFQKTaSqViydqHNEL6bLDv0jKn4onlWcwj0xpOYH8IzSQg3FypQ_CYjiVKz09/s400/IMG_8199.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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I am really happy how it turned out. And it was simpler to make than the original one (in <a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2011/10/week-4-basic-sleeveless-top-finished.html">Week 4</a>), which was the goal. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3gcnAd7WF_bKOh6Ux6XVXyE9GxmUP094H_a62RGbLapAz3l8MPgaaHOMkqy-JywyUVZ_8AdFft0_FuaDmVnVETASYTIYCQ7EygZwfYGFuMtzxco4jRTnDvoohIErea35O-vhslT4MJXUU/s1600/IMG_8204.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3gcnAd7WF_bKOh6Ux6XVXyE9GxmUP094H_a62RGbLapAz3l8MPgaaHOMkqy-JywyUVZ_8AdFft0_FuaDmVnVETASYTIYCQ7EygZwfYGFuMtzxco4jRTnDvoohIErea35O-vhslT4MJXUU/s320/IMG_8204.JPG" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0s27ZYFQvZ8shuJyDqAT6SUAsxvMRHgqLcKIjph8efN_UgOS_rG2JQBijwSn3gDQan3o5q6oYZB88AXoBTXkQZc7XUmwz5d54TaezyX3PqoChdDD_Ufoki-htSjFdtpByDqFVW28-hLtY/s1600/IMG_8205.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0s27ZYFQvZ8shuJyDqAT6SUAsxvMRHgqLcKIjph8efN_UgOS_rG2JQBijwSn3gDQan3o5q6oYZB88AXoBTXkQZc7XUmwz5d54TaezyX3PqoChdDD_Ufoki-htSjFdtpByDqFVW28-hLtY/s320/IMG_8205.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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This is a very simple top to make. You don't have to make it in two layers. You could use bias tape to finish arm and neck openings (like I did in <a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2011/10/week-4-basic-sleeveless-top-finished.html">Week 4</a>), or a facing. </div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Some techniques you might find useful:</span></div>
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<a href="http://www.coletterie.com/tutorials-tips-tricks/tutorial-sewing-darts" style="color: #dd5c2a; text-decoration: none;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Tutorial: How to Sew Darts</span></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://www.coletterie.com/tutorials-tips-tricks/facing-or-detail-bias-binding" style="color: #dd5c2a; text-decoration: none;">Facing or Detail: Bias Binding</a></span></div>
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<a href="http://craftprettysweet.blogspot.com/2011/05/sorbetto-ii-and-armneck-facing-tutorial.html" style="color: #dd5c2a; text-decoration: none;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">How to draw and sew facing</span></a></div>
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Previous Challenge 9 posts:</div>
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<a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/01/challenge-9-ulla-top-intro-and-drafting.html">Challenge 9:: Ulla top:: intro and drafting</a></div>
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<br />Ninahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17022469545932314525noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3359228661163807720.post-41653227025607034942012-01-25T23:39:00.000-08:002012-01-25T23:41:36.660-08:00Challenge 9:: Ulla top:: intro and drafting<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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And we are BACK! </div>
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It's been a while, more than a month! I will say it - I can't believe it's been that long. First it was the winter vacation, most of which we were away. Then I took a week to finish <a href="http://www.flekka.com/words/quilt/dash-dot/">a project</a> I had lying around. Then I worked on <a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/01/so-here-it-comes-new-challenge-and-free.html">this e-pattern</a>. Then... last week just flew by with doctor and dentist appointments. Then... a stomach flu. Then... it's Jan 25. </div>
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But we are back, and trying to stay on track - one/two weeks for a new garment. This week we are not really going to be making a new garment - it will be the <a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2011/10/week-4-basic-sleeveless-top-finished.html">basic sleeveless top</a> already made in Week 4. However I will use the <a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/01/so-here-it-comes-new-challenge-and-free.html">e-pattern</a> I posted last week: the block I will be using to make the next few designs. You can read about it and download it <a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2012/01/so-here-it-comes-new-challenge-and-free.html">here</a>. Therefore, it will basically be the same top, except that it will be easier to make because I will not be starting from the basic sloper, I will be starting from a block I designed myself, and therefore there will be less steps to get to the final design.</div>
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The best thing is that now you can download that block, follow the instruction here and sew a top like this for yourself. The block comes in sizes 36 - 42 (based on burda sizes; <a href="http://www.burdastyle.com/statics/size-chart">see the size chart</a>).</div>
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OK, so just to show how this will work, I decided to redo the basic sleeveless top. And now it finally has a name: Ulla top. As a reminder... this is what it should look like:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNuIavNtcB4w4TMIpy58GcKq7ftXigaK9SeNPeauevCbaT7tyafW3wOWggvSqWMJmeXDMck3ed4GL451IaqciGOwdpKEyAUuEYWGtZafsctuLXae7ROioreeGf2rYK3roh7JPvyZobOB5J/s1600/IMG_7922.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNuIavNtcB4w4TMIpy58GcKq7ftXigaK9SeNPeauevCbaT7tyafW3wOWggvSqWMJmeXDMck3ed4GL451IaqciGOwdpKEyAUuEYWGtZafsctuLXae7ROioreeGf2rYK3roh7JPvyZobOB5J/s200/IMG_7922.JPG" width="150" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinhc-uisbfRqA76kDCBIiLbn6XWE9Gu02pFX9DECh6iuL4sR0G9A8csqHjxEo8rgWTlqBb88JWeUY6qfh4dt0o7pYJRKS-8edOoiO77r74Bm8Zjgpnnsw56gEafxVyM2k3VIU8o0-4xkV1/s1600/technical+drawing.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinhc-uisbfRqA76kDCBIiLbn6XWE9Gu02pFX9DECh6iuL4sR0G9A8csqHjxEo8rgWTlqBb88JWeUY6qfh4dt0o7pYJRKS-8edOoiO77r74Bm8Zjgpnnsw56gEafxVyM2k3VIU8o0-4xkV1/s200/technical+drawing.png" width="190" /></a></div>
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This is what the pattern looks like when it is printed and assembled. You can of course print it black/white because the pattern lines are different so you will be able to figure out which size is which. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ7MVvUAs0CFsj6HPco4KF3PwhWNNKkHbysAymAt1Lb7KYo5Of8soKFOx8_nabCI4ikwBjnxlBB8G8ZukRplcD8-vO4c1lH4Tw28CanygdczhU6GCaZD3h3FuL0nKsVkBCC2rMiPhLXVnj/s640/blogger-image-404875774.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ7MVvUAs0CFsj6HPco4KF3PwhWNNKkHbysAymAt1Lb7KYo5Of8soKFOx8_nabCI4ikwBjnxlBB8G8ZukRplcD8-vO4c1lH4Tw28CanygdczhU6GCaZD3h3FuL0nKsVkBCC2rMiPhLXVnj/s400/blogger-image-404875774.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Once you cut your size, you will have the front and back pieces like these:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0rCcC4l-4KnQijK67uBg80ySXXhVWsHfk5gcgiSjDYssbXWlpJmkW2lFByF6u-uCe-IMrAp0PPQ9QteaYjDl7qObPMBrb28AMW7eShBdxHqkntuoYv_QzIGWg8qUb-5J08-UPD3kVSGRO/s640/blogger-image--62762145.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMGfEVIignC3bYIYE_G34L67RQC-lwLRgOdYjPCBWKlOMf644AI5ktteED-jSNgtPy-xK7wskfl_hw_47ZhfqGHeW6HJttTdgMn86NosC8Pivn9fCEXKCEsoDhBRPCE7xzvCsXiZV0h7SJ/s640/blogger-image-1390588015.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMGfEVIignC3bYIYE_G34L67RQC-lwLRgOdYjPCBWKlOMf644AI5ktteED-jSNgtPy-xK7wskfl_hw_47ZhfqGHeW6HJttTdgMn86NosC8Pivn9fCEXKCEsoDhBRPCE7xzvCsXiZV0h7SJ/s640/blogger-image-1390588015.jpg" /></a></div>
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If you compare these pattern pieces with those of the <a href="http://flekka-challenge.blogspot.com/2011/10/week-4-basic-sleeveless-top-finished.html">finished basic sleeveless top</a> - you could see that they are very similar. The biggest difference are the arm and neck openings, and that's what we are going to be changing to get this and some other designs.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnimRbeqDYNPwIdzOMYTvjbdSXSpe93vQg9AKg9VVt0EkD15CKiDt5fzAUHlXSNQmUFBPBYfhOrSNQmfHv-SLtI6Xkq9hndoSCzILOpR-htggCrAiDaTL7eaHjyW83_0_K1fbFoE9QfmMT/s640/blogger-image-297775323.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnimRbeqDYNPwIdzOMYTvjbdSXSpe93vQg9AKg9VVt0EkD15CKiDt5fzAUHlXSNQmUFBPBYfhOrSNQmfHv-SLtI6Xkq9hndoSCzILOpR-htggCrAiDaTL7eaHjyW83_0_K1fbFoE9QfmMT/s640/blogger-image-297775323.jpg" /></a></div>
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To start, redraw the new neckline and arm opening. I used the same measurements as before: 4.5 cm from the neckline down the shoulder seam (both front and back); 5 cm shoulder width. In the back you will notice I did not measure 5 cm for the shoulder - because of the dart - instead I measured from the arm opening, 3.2 cm to match the same measurement in the front. The front neck opening is 13.5 cm deep; back neck is 6 cm.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPYRbj2e1olzZbWID5FReBpOTKHeEy2rdaIil03AQbOUP5LjL8fNSjNNyP0iC1OJxkBRYovPh42NXA8NX9aIePea6GUIMGMCnwpJpYccvQgH-eU8bObhyphenhyphenkSrx20i-_j_3UDqL-iEGQY9_V/s640/blogger-image--1009471657.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPYRbj2e1olzZbWID5FReBpOTKHeEy2rdaIil03AQbOUP5LjL8fNSjNNyP0iC1OJxkBRYovPh42NXA8NX9aIePea6GUIMGMCnwpJpYccvQgH-eU8bObhyphenhyphenkSrx20i-_j_3UDqL-iEGQY9_V/s640/blogger-image--1009471657.jpg" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUIvnLpiGNKg0BYFPP57psG-sagFbM8W2lpPC4yRKoKd7CjvlpGo8agmZJev7DH-nohAw87z1zHsXtn_lDjZlmJQ2lUzchLj251qs4kGgODNxzfILGdwBKOj9WhItyaPF-ZrP-3rAOrGt0/s640/blogger-image-315175542.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUIvnLpiGNKg0BYFPP57psG-sagFbM8W2lpPC4yRKoKd7CjvlpGo8agmZJev7DH-nohAw87z1zHsXtn_lDjZlmJQ2lUzchLj251qs4kGgODNxzfILGdwBKOj9WhItyaPF-ZrP-3rAOrGt0/s640/blogger-image-315175542.jpg" /></a></div>
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Before I cut those out, I need to check if the curves are smooth across the neck and arm openings. Align the pattern pieces as in the pics above: as you can see - the arm curve is nice and smooth, but the neck curve needs to be fixed a little, it is not smooth across the shoulder seam. Now you are ready to cut along those lines.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0rCcC4l-4KnQijK67uBg80ySXXhVWsHfk5gcgiSjDYssbXWlpJmkW2lFByF6u-uCe-IMrAp0PPQ9QteaYjDl7qObPMBrb28AMW7eShBdxHqkntuoYv_QzIGWg8qUb-5J08-UPD3kVSGRO/s1600/blogger-image--62762145.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0rCcC4l-4KnQijK67uBg80ySXXhVWsHfk5gcgiSjDYssbXWlpJmkW2lFByF6u-uCe-IMrAp0PPQ9QteaYjDl7qObPMBrb28AMW7eShBdxHqkntuoYv_QzIGWg8qUb-5J08-UPD3kVSGRO/s1600/blogger-image--62762145.jpg" /></a></div>
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Next, we need to fix the neck opening a little: because this is a deep opening, it will not lay flat on your chest. So we need to tightened it a bit, which will bring the shoulder seam closer to the neck. If you choose to make a smaller opening you might not have to do this. It is hard to say what is the deep neckline and what is not, or whether you need this or not. The best thing is just to try on your muslin. One note - if you are making a sleeveless top, like this one, tightening your neckline will not matter much, because there are no sleeves to be pulled up as the shoulder are pulled closer to the neck, so you can do it, even if your neckline is not as deep as this one.</div>
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To tighten... draw a line from the Breast Point (BP: make sure you select the one for your size) towards the neckline, at about 1/3 of the length of the neckline from the middle line. Then measure 5 mm down the neckline - towards the midline - and draw another line from BP to this point. Now you have a little dart from the BP to the neckline. Now we have to remove this dart...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhobNALUZNn46FLPEwTYj86EqOG4l84QcU4_WcfZ2kI0cBYj6VLOVSEOaG6MNn-AG5OYRkFr5Yswhkr9PzGd8ccu_v2Q7IKq89GU8hbqdBYSbddkPfjc5wrTl2IOXKIYkyoW28txy-Irf6s/s640/blogger-image--677509358.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhobNALUZNn46FLPEwTYj86EqOG4l84QcU4_WcfZ2kI0cBYj6VLOVSEOaG6MNn-AG5OYRkFr5Yswhkr9PzGd8ccu_v2Q7IKq89GU8hbqdBYSbddkPfjc5wrTl2IOXKIYkyoW28txy-Irf6s/s640/blogger-image--677509358.jpg" /></a></div>
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There are a few options as to where to "move" that "dart". In this case I chose to add a bit volume at the bottom, make it even more A-line, so I moved the dart towards the hem. So I drew a line perpendicular to hem from BP. Then cut the dart out and then cut along the line from hem to BP, but don't cut through BP, stop just before so that the two pieces don't separate. Close the dart and open at the hem, just like above. Tape the closed dart together and tape some paper under the open part to stabilize the pattern - you could leave it open but you would have hard time transferring it to your fabric. The front is almost done - the last thing is to smooth the neckline, if you need. Depending on your curve, when you close the dart you might need to redraw it slightly.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiIlsPQERhkzbrMUVtYTjcmLyL8v8V8hTm0kvWksJLbKbNDlxD16DPnjn4ICYcqWZ7WJcOr3mVUBGhSzlMomRDwGzRtImMOC7OntSZIz9Zf5xyJ93sJRf20eAe8R-S8Ppy8PC6NKDmABeH/s640/blogger-image-1251510719.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiIlsPQERhkzbrMUVtYTjcmLyL8v8V8hTm0kvWksJLbKbNDlxD16DPnjn4ICYcqWZ7WJcOr3mVUBGhSzlMomRDwGzRtImMOC7OntSZIz9Zf5xyJ93sJRf20eAe8R-S8Ppy8PC6NKDmABeH/s640/blogger-image-1251510719.jpg" /></a></div>
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Finally the back... The only thing to do is to take care of that shoulder dart. Again, there are a few options, and I will show some in future projects. But in this one I decided to move it into the hemline, to add some volume, just line in the front piece. So, again, draw a line straight down to hem from the tip of the dart. Then cut the dart out and cut along the line from the hem to, but not through, the tip of the dart. We will not move/close the whole dart because this will add too much volume to the bottom, and that would not match the front. So I measured the amount added in the front by moving the neckline dart - it was about 2 cm, and opened the back about the same amount (so that the opening measured at the hem is about the same). This means that the shoulder dart will not be completely closed. And that's OK. The little bit extra will not be a problem - I will just do a little ease... Put some paper under your pattern and tape down.</div>
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We now have a finished pattern and we can do the muslin...</div>
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<br /></div>Ninahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17022469545932314525noreply@blogger.com0