Showing posts with label Rossa shirt. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Rossa shirt. Show all posts


Challenge 15:: Gima tunic:: drafting sleeves, muslin

For this top I wanted a narrower sleeve, but not too narrow. I don't really care for narrow sleeves myself. I have a really wide back (always had, no matter what size I was) and I need that additional room in the sleeves. Otherwise tops are always tight around my upper back if I move my arms and I absolutely hate that. So, not so tight, but narrower than the Rossa shirt.

So, I used the same method to draft the sleeve as for Rossa shirt, except that I used a higher sleeve cap (see picture above -> sleeve cap is 2/3 of AB; Rossa shirt sleeve had 1/2 AB) and I drew the sleeve closer to the bodice - this might be clearer from the picture below (this is the back).

Compare the above picture with the one I did when drafting Rossa shirt sleeve - the difference is that when you extend the shoulder line by 8 cm, you draw down 4 cm, instead of 2.5. This will make the angle of the sleeve bigger and the sleeve "closer" to the bodice. Then you draw the sleeve curve the same

Repeat for the front, same as the Rossa shirt, with modifications as for the back. 

This is what the sleeve looked like after the first draft. I thought that the front lookes a bit too low, so I adjusted the curve a bit.

This is the final pattern for the sleeve. 

I was feeling confident about the bodice part of the pattern, so I cut it out from the fabric I chose for this tunic, not the muslin. I figured I might have to take it in a bit, but it shouldn't be too tight. And I was right. It was too wide, so I took it in a bit and shaped it a little more at the waist. 

I was a bit worried about the sleeve though. It looked a bit weird, the pattern. But look here, it fit just perfect!

So now onto the finished top...

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Challenge 14:: Rossa shirt:: finished

Here it is... On the right the inspiration (Sydney top from Steven Alan) and on the left my finished Rossa shirt.

I planned to take some shots of me wearing it this time. I really did. But I could not find my tripod... I haven't used it for so long. Next time, I promise.

The fabric comes from the local Fabric Planet and was bought very recently. I have to say it looked better in the shop than when I actually cut it.

It looked to busy so I used some stash linen for contrast. I was debating using darker linen, to match the print (which is actually not flowers but clocks!), but the effect was - well, dark and drab. So I ended up using this lighter linen and I have to say I like the result.

I wish I could show you what it looks like on, but the pattern modifications I did made a difference. It looks really good with skinny pants... probably would with a skirt too, but I haven't try that.

The collar ended up perfect - no need to do any modifications. And it was really easier to put on than I have expected (not having much experience with collars). And the neck gathers add a nice little detail.

I did not know what exactly to do with the sleeves, so I simply used some bias tape (actually it wasn't cut on bias, I didn't want it to be stretch) and finished the end. 

Buttons gave me some grief. These are small buttons, so I was not going to make the loop out of fabric - too small. I didn't have time to go to the store, I needed to finish this (and adding these loops was actually the first step that needed to be done, so I couldn't put it off), so I ended up using some dark thin elastic I had on hand. Ended up being a little too thick, so it's wrinkling the fabric a little around the buttons. I definitely need to use something different next time.

All in all this was fun to make. Both pattern drafting and sewing (as I mentioned before, cutting fabric is not my favorite thing). And it wasn't that difficult too. I started from the basic sloper and a few modifications later I had this pattern. When you think about how much you modify finished patterns that don't fit - I think this is not too bad.

As a side note... this fabric made an appearance on another blog this week... it was made into a very different top. Go and check out at Cation Designs.

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Challenge 14:: Rossa shirt:: muslin and modifications

So... here is the muslin. Again, thrifted sheets came in handy. Cutting the fabrics is not my favorite thing - unlike cutting for quilts which I find therapeutic - so I decided not to cut  the collar or the button placket. I just wanted to try the overall fit. I was actually pretty confident I will not have any major problems, as in previous challenges, and I decided to wing it with the collar - which is one thing I haven't done before. And, the collar can be easily redesigned without the need of changing any other pattern pieces.

It really did fit well. Not perfect though. I found it a bit too short and hem, well, a little bit boring. The sleeve was too long but fit very nicely. The neckline was fine. I did find it a bit boxy, so I decided to taper it in slightly at the waist - this is a loose fitting shirt after all. And to lengthen it a bit and add a bit more width at the hip - not that it was tight or anything, I just thought it would fall more nicely. That's about it. I had no idea how to finish the sleeve at this point, I just knew it would be long...

So, in the front, at the waist I took in as much as I added originally, so that it was as wide as the basic sloper. I added 2 cm at the hip and lengthen the front by 1 inch. I also decided to have a little opening on the side - 10 cm, so I drew that in too.

Instead of simple hem finish, I decided to do a decorative band along the hem, so I drew that in too (in red) - I later copied that part because it will be cut separately.

In the back, same as in the front, I made the waistline as wide as the basic sloper and then I added 1 cm at the hip. I added 2 more inches to the length to make the back a little longer than the front. To match the side opening, I matched the front and back pattern pieces - see pic on the right below.

I copied the hem piece on both front and back...

And when I finally cut all the pieces out this is what I had...

And now onto the finished piece...

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Challenge 14:: Rossa shirt:: drafting sleeve and collar

Without any introductions...

The collar... Measure the length of the neck at the back and the front. This will be half the length of the collar. Choose the with and draw a rectangle with those two measurements. See picture below. To draw a curve, find points 4 (about halfway between 2 and 3, and 5 (about 1.5 cm up from point 3). Finish drawing the collar as in the pic below. Point 2 will be your shoulder seam mark.

Take your patterns and just make sure that point 2 actually matches the shoulder seam, by 'sliding' your collar pattern from the back seam toward the shoulder seam.

Here I will be drawing a shirt sleeve (as per Bunka Fashion Series Garment Design Textbook 3 - Blouses and Dresses) which is wide due to the small sleeve cap, and has no ease. This is appropriate for relaxed fit garments with deeper arm opening.

OK, so first, let's figure out the sleeve cap height. copy the arm opening curves for the back and the front next to each other - see the picture on the left. Draw a vertical line from the sideseam up. Draw horizontal lines from the shoulder points toward the vertical lines (points 1 and 2). Find point A halfway between 1 and 2. Measure distance from A to B - half that distance will be the sleeve cap height (C is halfway between A and B; distance from A to C is the sleeve cap height).

Now take some tissue paper, or other transparent paper you might use, and put over the drawing in the previous picture. You need to be able to see the arm opening curve clearly. First, lets do the back. 

Extend the shoulder line by 8 cm and then draw a 2.5 cm long line perpendicular to that line. This will give you the angle at which the sleeve is drawn against the back bodice pattern, see pictures below. Connect the triangle and extend by sleeve length (from the shoulder point at the shoulder seam). Next, measure the cap height from the shoulder point. Draw a perpendicular line. This is the line that will be the widest point of the sleeve, right at the bottom of the sleeve cap. 

Now, draw the sleeve cap curve. Its not as bad as it seams. Start at the shoulder seam; go a bit over the arm opening curve; touch the arm opening curve at about 1/2 length of the arm opening and then curve down to that line you drew for the sleeve width. make sure that the length of the arm curve from 1 to 2 is about the same as the length on the sleeve cap from 1 to 3. Again, there is no ease on this sleeve, but you do want to make sure that the sleeve cap is not shorter than the arm opening on the bodice.

Finally, draw the hemline of the sleeve, parallel to the sleeve with line and connect to point 3. I made the "hem" a bit narrower - by 1/4 of the whole width. 

Repeat the same for the front part of the sleeve with one modification. The front sleeve cap curve needs to be a bit deeper than the back, so your sleeve cap will go slightly above the arm opening first, then cross below about halfway from the shoulder to the point that corresponds to point 1 on the back (at the same height from the top of the side seam). Finish as for the back.

Finish the sleeve as for the back. I took in the same amount at the hem as for the back.

Cut the two pieces out and tape them together. I did not cut all the way to the sleeve cap curve, just in case it needed to be adjusted. It did, a bit (ignore the double curve in the back, I actually miscalculated the sleeve cap height fist time around).

Finally, point 1 will be used as a marker for fitting the sleeve, so mark those on the sleeve and on the bodice patterns.

In Challenge 7 I used a different method of drafting sleeves (from the same book) - I drafted a tighter sleeve with a height sleeve cap; and another wider, with smaller sleeve cap. You could also use that method to draft a sleeve for this shirt.

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Challenge 14:: Rossa shirt:: drafting back and front


Challenge 14:: Rossa shirt:: drafting back and front

Yes, I am still here... It's been a while, we had a Spring break (which seems it was just the other day, but it was a month since we've been back actually), then I was distracted by some quilting I just *had* to do, and then I was just, well... uninspired. So, instead of drafting and sewing I was playing around with some thing 'related' to this project. I was learning new tools for making fashion flats, I figured out how to make pattern pdf-s for printing more easily, I have been doing just a bit of fabric shopping and finally last week I have been doing some sewing.

OK, so let's get to this new challenge. A shirt - specifically this shirt below, Sydney Top from Steven Alan. It has a few interesting details - gathering around the neck (done that, should not be a problem), slit neckline (done that too, except this one comes with buttons so that will be interesting), yoke (done),  and a few new things - collar, shirttail hem with slits and shirt (relaxed) sleeves.
Steven Alan Sydney Top

This time, since the basic design is different from Block 1, which is more fitted, I will go back the basic bodice. Let's start with the back first.

In a nutshell - since this is a relaxed fit, I will make the arm opening wider as well. So we need to move the shoulder dart into the arm opening, draw in a yoke and do some other minor adjustments like the length, and the neck, side and hem shaping.

So, start with the back bodice: draw in a horizontal line from the tip of the dart - the position where the dart will be moved to, also the position of the yoke. Since I don't want to cut up my bodice, I will do the rotate and trace method. You could also do the slash and move method - cut along the drawn line, cut out the dart, close the dart and secure with tape...
To copy the pattern with the modifications... trace around your block from the left dart leg, around the neck, along the midline, waistline, up the side seam and along the arm opening until you reach the point where the line you drew touches the arm opening (you can also look here for a more detailed drawing).

Put a pin in the tip of the dart, and rotate counterclockwise until the right leg of the dart, touches the original position of the left leg (basically you are "closing" the dart). Now trace around the the top right corner of the bodice, the one you did not trace around in the previous step.

The picture below shows what you end up with. Since the shoulder line is not straight, fix it by drawing a straight line from the neck to the shoulder point. Also, divide the opening of the new dart into 3 equal parts. Two parts will be added to the arm opening, one part will be used for shaping of the yoke.

Now, add 1.5 cm to the width - this is a relaxed fir after all, and add as much length as you wish - in this case I added 24.5 cm from the waistline.

I also added 1cm to the shoulder width, dropping the shoulder slightly (again, the relaxed fit) and deepened the arm opening by 1 cm down the side seam. Draw a new arm opening.

Almost forgot - I deepened the neckline slightly. Personal choice, not really necessary. 

Draw a new hemline (here I used an old shirt I had; I liked the curve on it). Also, make sure that the width at the hip (of your shirt goes past the hipline) is at least H/4 + 2cm, where H is your hip measurement in cm. This is basically to make sure that there is enough room at the hip. For me, it worked out that I was right on the mark - I did not have to add any shaping to the side seam.

Finally, draw in the yoke: extend the horizontal line you drew in for the "new" dart - this will be the bottom of the yoke. For a bit of back shaping, and better drape, curve the back (bottom of the pattern) slightly so that the opening at the arm is about the same as the 1/3 of the dart opening.

OK, now on to he front part of the pattern. Since this one is more complicated, I first made a copy of it - on the copy I deepened the neckline a bit (see the pic below). I also measured the amount of the dart that will be blended into the arm opening. There is an error on the picture below - it should say 2A not A. If you look on an earlier picture above, the back dart was divided into three parts, and A is a "width" (measured at  the arm opening) of one part or 1/3 of the dart. 2/3, or 2A was blended into the back arm opening, so the same amount needs to be blended into the front arm opening to keep the balance between the front and back. The shaded part of the dart will be moved into the neck to get the gathers. There is a little bit of a "V" opening at the neck, so I took 1.5 cm at the neck opening and drew in the "V" down to about 6 cm from the bustline. Cut along that line.

Now, draw in the yoke - I chose mine to be about 4 cm from the shoulder seam. When we're done moving the dart, we will cut this out and tape it to the back yoke, to get one pattern piece. Then, divide the remaining neck into three equal parts (points A and B) and draw lines from those points to BP (bust point). I will do the rotation again, but you could also cut along those lines, cut the dart out and open equally at A and B.

Divide the dart to be moved (the shaded part) into two sections (points 1, 2 and 3). Trace from point 1 counterclockwise around the pattern all the way to point A. 

Put a pin in the tip of the dart and rotate the pattern counterclockwise until point 2 overlaps touches point 1. Trace the pattern from A to B. then rotate once more, until 3 touches 1 (now the dart is closed), and then trace from B around all the way to point 1.

This is what you end up with ... a very un-smooth neckline. So, smooth it. 

Add 1 cm to the shoulder length (to match the back) and deepen the armhole by 1 cm at the sideseam. Also, add 1 cm to the width, and the length from the waist to match the back. Draw a new arm opening. If the shirt extend beyond the hipline, make sure that the width at the hipline is at least H/4 + 3cm, where H is your hip measurement. Again, in my case I was straight on, so I did not need to do any side shaping. Shape the hemline - I used the same curve as for the back.

Since the neckline will be slit and there will be buttons we need to draw in the lapel. I chose it to be 2 cm wide, and to extend all the way to the waist. I used the actual buttons I will use of the shirt to mark button positions.

Finally, tape the front and back along the shoulder line, and check the neck and arm curve - make sure it is smooth along the shoulder seam; smooth if necessary - i needed to fix the neck curve - see below. Cut the yoke out and you have the basic three pattern pieces - front, back and the yoke.