Week 4:: basic sleeveless top: drafting front Version 1

Seriously, post titles are getting out of control...

Version 1, you ask? Well, yesterday as I started this project, I thought it would be straight forward - move the dart to underarm position, add length, etc... But as I was drafting the front today I ran into a problem. Well, maybe not a problem... a design dilemma perhaps...

Let me show you...

BurdaStyle Magazine 08/2011
This is what I was going for. Simple, no? Let's compare it to the sloper: no waist darts, bust dart moved into underarm position, deep neckline, slight A-line - a bit of flare at the hemline.

So... knowing what I know now about sloper modifications... I would say all I have to do is modify neck and arm openings, move the bust dart, add some length and modify the side seam slightly to add some width at the hemline. OK, let's do it:

Step 1: trace the front sloper. Mark the new position of the bust dart - Point A is 6 cm down from the top of side seam.

Step 2: draw new shoulder seam. B to B1 (distance from neck) is 4.5 cm; B1 to C1 (new shoulder width) is 5 cm. Also draw the new neckline (I chose a deep neckline, 13.5 cm down from center neck - point D1). Trace down along the center line to waist line.

Step 3: to close the bust dart, and move it to the new position, overlay the sloper, mark point A as well as points 1 and 2 (click on picture below for a better view). Place a pin in the tip of the dart.

Step 4: rotate clockwise around the tip of the dart (or bust point - BP) until point 2 on the sloper matches point 1 on the paper under. Trace along the sloper from A along side seam and arm opening to point 2.

Step 5: this is what you have at this point. A1 is the new position of A after rotation. Connect A1 to BP, and A to BP - and you have the new dart!

Step 6: draw the new arm opening. 

Step 7: OK, one more step I have not mentioned in the intro... Since I made a deep neck opening, I need to tighten it a bit, to make it lay flat. If you decided on a smaller neck opening - you can skip this step (go to step 9). Draw a line straight down from B and across from D1. Then draw a line from BP through the intersection of the lines drawn (from B and D1) all the way to the neckline (E). E1 is about 0.5 cm away from E on the neckline. Draw a line from E1 to BP. To tighten the neckline, we need to close this little "dart" we draw between BP, E and E1. (Ignore points 3 and 4).

Step 8: you can skip this one too if you didn't have to tighten the neckline (go to step 9). Cut the outline you have now (don't worry about the dart, just cut straight from A to A1), then cut the BP-E-E1 "dart". To tighten the neckline, we now have to get rid of that little "dart" we drew in the previous step. As with any other bust dart, we need to move it somewhere. We could move it to the new bust dart, this making it wider, or we could move it into the waist widening at the hem. I chose to do the latter - the bust dart is already wide enough, I was afraid that if I make it any wider, I will create a very "pointy" bust.  So, cut from BP straight down to WL (waist line). Then rotate around BP clockwise until E meets E1. This will open up a dart on the waistline. This one will be blended into the design, making a slight A-line. Trace around the paper. 

Step 9: The last thing to do is draw the dart and add length. To draw the dart, draw a line through the center of the dart, through BP (see the dashed line below). Then, extend the side seam line through A until it crosses the dashed line (intersection is pint C). Finally draw a line from B to C. Very rarely is the dart sewn all the way to BP - this would make a very pointy dart. So, move the tip of the dart 4 cm away from BP along the midline (dashed line) of the dart. “Paternmaking..” by Joseph-Armstrong says to move the point 3/4 in to 1 1/2 in. In the Bunka Blouses and Dresses Textbook, I saw different values. I don't know what the right answer is. 4 cm seemed right here, but I will see when I do the muslin...

And here is where I got stuck... a little bit. I wanted to compare the pattern I got, to the BurdaStyle pattern that was the starting point (scroll to the top). Ignoring the neck and arm opening curves or the width at hem (not so important), I noticed that my dart is about 50% wider (distance between A and B) than the one in the original pattern. What does that mean?

Maybe I am overthinking this... I tend to do that. But I cannot really go forward without understanding this fully. It seems to me that the wider the dart the more shaping the pattern will have. So, before I move on to muslin, I "closed" the dart, as I would when sewing this pattern. This is what it looks like:

So what would it look like if the dart is narrower? What about if there is not dart? I don't know, but I will find out. That's why this is Version 1. Version 2 and 3 coming up tomorrow.

In Version 2 I want to have a narrower, smaller dart. How will I get that? I definitely need to change something because I cannot just make it smaller, a dart or a part of a dart cannot just disappear, it needs to be moved.... More about it tomorrow.

** Edited on 10/12 to add one more step **
As I was working on other version today, I realized I forgot one thing...
Step 10: take in the side seam by 1 cm. Learning from Week 1 pattern, I am expecting this one to be a little wide under arm - so I will take the side seam in by 1 cm.

To do this, simply fold the dart and draw in a new side seam.

Then open the dart, add in the new lines for the dart and cut off. That's it.

Next... Basic Sleeveless Version 2

Previous posts:

Week 4:: basic sleeveless top

No comments:

Post a Comment