10/12/11

Week 4:: basic sleeveless top: drafting front Version 2

As I mentioned yesterday, I was a little surprised to see that my finished pattern, namely the bust dart, did not match the design I was looking for. I actually traced the BurdaStyle Pattern and here are the patterns side to side (white one is from Burda).


My final pattern had a wider dart, which resulted in a more "spikey" bust. I wanted a more "flat" look (I don't know if you can see the difference in the pic below?).


But here you can see the difference...


So now onto making the dart smaller... Remember this picture from the previous post? I conveniently had this same piece of paper, but if you do not have it, you can either take a look at the previous post, or you can use the pattern above (the one you created in previous post) slash a line parallel to midline, from hemline to BP. Also cut out the dart and then "open" along the cut line, closing the dart a little bit to make it "smaller" (sorry, I guess I forgot to take a picture of this step).


Trace around the pattern pieces, draw the dart again (see Step 9 in previous post), and cut out. This is the pattern you end up with.


So what happened there? We moved a part of the dart into the waistline, adding fullness. Thus, the final pattern has more of an A-line, and is wider than the Version 1 pattern at the hemline:


Since I don't want this to be so wide at the hem, I need to take the extra volume out... Trace lightly the side seam from Version 1 pattern onto the new pattern (the pic above), then close the dart on the new pattern and draw the new side seam (pic below).


Here are Version 1 (wider dart) and Version 2 side by side. Can you tell which is which?


Version 1 is on the right.

This works for me, and I am happy with Version 2, which I will be sewing up. However... I  wanted to see if I can use another method, different set of bodice manipulations to get the same pattern. This is me overthinking again. So, Version 2.1 next...

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