Week 4:: basic sleeveless top: drafting back (just one version)

When it comes to the back pattern, there is not much to do - we need to move the shoulder dart and draw in new neckline and arm opening; and take in some width and redraw the side seams.

Step 1: start with the sloper. Mark point A about 1/3 of of the neckline from the shoulder. Trace from A to midline, down midline and along the hem (waistline). Mark points 1 and 2 and trace from 2 along the shoulder line.

Step 2: put a pin into the tip of the shoulder dart and rotate the bodice clockwise until point 1 matches point 2 (basically closing the dart). Trace from A (point A on the bodice, see below) toward the shoulder and down the shoulder to point 2.

This is what you should have at this point.

Step 3: Draw new shoulder: B to B1 is 4.5 cm; B1 to C1 is 5 cm. Draw a new neckline and arm opening. 

Step 4: Take in 1 cm at the top of the side seam and then redraw the side seam by adding some width at the waistline. I tried to match the slope of the side seam on the front pattern. Add length - I added 20 cm from the waistline.

Step 5: taking care of the leftover dart at the neckline. I drew a deep neckline, but there is still a bit of shoulder dart left - about 0.5 cm. Instead of drawing in the dart and having it as a part of the pattern (and having to sew it), I redrew the shoulder seam, taking down point B1 about 0.5 cm along the neckline.

Step 6: make sure that the neck and arm curves are smooth over shoulder seams. Put front and back together at the shoulder seam and check. In this case I had to smooth a little bit (see blue line below).

That's it for the back. And that's it for the pattern. I will be using this back and Version 2 of the front for my final pattern. But muslin first...

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